dorkweed

In my other thread about the "free spin" kit I'll be installing............now with my buddy, JD..............neither he or I have done ball joints or tie rods before. He's replaced the unit bearings and axle u-joints before though; so he's got more experience than I do on our trucks front ends.What's the "backyard cowboy" way to check ball joints and tie rod ends??? As I said, my truck drives straight and true. No rattling, clunking or vibrations up front. I just have this "tick, tick" now from the drivers side axle u-joint unless I keep it heavily greased up.I've got just under 100k on the ball joints and tie rod ends................if I don't have to spend the money now, I won't. If I can get another 50k out of them: then when I repack the "free-spin" hubs, I'll do them then.Just need to know the backyard, cowboy, cheap-___ method of checking them now!!!!! Just to make sure I don't FUBAR something else trying to save a buck!!!

Can/could you even find a "differentiated" transfer case anymore???:shrug:One that could be used on our heavy duty trucks??

This^^^^ x100!!!!!! Going thru "greasable" axle u-joints every 50k miles o about every 2 years sucks the big one IMHO!!!! The way I drive, I'm hoping to pickup at least 1mpg + additional life of my axle u-joints!! AH64ID, I'll be taking pix and posting them upon the install of this kit. Probably not until after the July 4th holiday.

Is it because of this????????? www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCtiQTQQ7QA

There is a CCV filter under the plastic cover on top of the valve cover under the hood. It's possivle this is shot, but I've read of trucks with 10x the mileage never replacing this "filter"!!!! My guess would be the pistons rings or valve guides as of now!! If'n it were the turbo, wouldn't it smoke nasty upon cold start up???

I'm sorry guys; but, if he's losing that much oil in 4k miles............IMHO, it's none of the above.If'n he was losing it that fast in the turbo, valve guides, etc., he'd have major "Blue Smoke" out the tail pipe. I get just an occasional drip from my vent tube; but I never see "smoke or steam" out of the vent tube. With the Valvoline Premium Blue engine oil I run now, I get a lot more "Oil Smell" from the front of the truck.............but I've got no leaks and am maintaining consistant oil level.When I had that front "gear cover gasket" leak, it coated the bottom, passenger side and rear of my truck...........as well as the front of my trailer!!!To the OP............are you the original owner of this truck????? If not, do you know how the previous owner "kept" this turck???I think we need more info..............and not saying the OP hasn't given us any............this one is confusing.

The CR engines with the OEM fuel filter housing can handle about 60psi of lift pump pressure before the plastic lid will crack or the seal will leak. That's going off the "top of my head" from a post years ago by a fellow called "SuperDuty" on another forum. He was the fellow that pioneered the Walbro systems we see now. I'm guessing he cracked an OEM Dodge fuel filter housing cover!!! The CP3 will take what it needs and send the rest of the fuel back to the tank. I've been running the same Walbro for almost 6.5 years, and I normally see 24-25psi this time of year at idle.........she'll pull down to 23psi under a heavy foot. In the winter, with thicker fuel and 0 degree temps, my gauge will be pegged. That's 30+psi!!!! The Walbro not only supplies adequate pressure, it also meets volume also. Many pumps cannot do both. The CP3 can pump fuel on it's own without a lift pump, but it doesn' do it well under high fuel volume needs.................such as "BOMBED" trucks!!:smart:I normally drive by my boost gauge and my rail pressure gauge. I try to keep boost down (under 5psi empty if possible) and rail pressure high (17,000+psi if possible) for the most part. If I'm bucking a headwind, or quartering into a headwind; I just drive slower. There seems to be an "ideal spot" of boost and RP for all conditions........they may not be ideal conditions for you time-wise, but you'll max out your fuel dollars by doing so.:smart:See my "3 In a Row" thread in the 3rd gen section.

Michael, I know that I would've averaged 21+mpg on the first tank to and fro from KY had I been driving by myself. As I said, going down interstate it's hard to talk to your passengers without yelling over the wind noise!!! So the air went on. In addition I was driving down with Vanessa..............and she has TWB............teeny weeny bladder..............plus she drinks water like it's going out of style!!!! So there were also potty stops driving down and back!!! Really looking forward to getting these lock out hubs installed and see what it does for mileage. My buddy JD and I are gonna tackle this. Reading the destructions, it doesn't look hard at all. It's just that the parts are so big; that you need to be Hercules to hoist them around!!! JD offfered to help, because he's got a feeling that his '03 is gonna need front end work soon. Plus with him helping........at his home..............if we need something, we can take his truck to the parts store!!!!! That's one of the reasons I don't like doing big wrenching on my truck alone...........it's my only vehicle!!!!!! If'n it's in pieces, I've got no way to get parts if I FUBAR something!!!!!!!

Third tank in a row boys and girls that I averaged 20+mpg!!!!:sofa:IN ALL HONESTY; IMHO, I truly don't know how many of y;all don't/ or can't get better mileage from your trucks!!????? Just saying, not arguing!!!!Could it be that I'm the guy that y'all are passing on the road (swearing at) everyday!!??:?Not arguing, just saying!!!

I think I've got you're problem figured out!!!!!!:smart:IMHO, your tires are "too" wide. That set up would "suck" in snow storm!!!:smart:I'm hitting up tire companies to make a "pizza cutter" tire in 17"!!!!:banghead::banghead:Tall and thin..........is in!!

My last 5 fill-ups..........1....$3.792....$3.693....$3.674....$3.66 in southern Illinois5....$3.69Believe it or not, diesel wasn't any cheaper in KY when I was down there last week. #4 from above was a fill up in Mt. Vernon, IL on the returen trip from KY. All the others are up here in northern IL.

AH64ID.....That sway bar set up looks a fair bit different from the OEM one I ordered from the factory on my '99. I ordered the '99 with the camper package.....which included the sway bar and overload springs. Twas hard to make that '99 squat!!!!Are you worried about the "end links" catching on stuff off road. Maybe it's the pix.....I dunno!!!

Mr. UPS Man only delivered 1 of the 2 boxes (according to the UPS tracking) that contains the Spyntec hubs I ordered. Was hoping to get her into the shop with the kit on Monday. Well , I guess that's out now. Just have to wait for the rest of the shipment.:pant:In the one box, I got a box with the MileMarker hubs, along with a turning tool, hub mounting screws, and an allen wrench to tighten the hub screws. Also in the box individually wrapped in wax paper were the stub shafts. And finally in another box in the box, I got the bearing kit...............included in that were the seals, washers, clips, nuts, rings etc.The other box should have the spindle and the flange mount w/wheel studs and maybe some other parts. Kind of hard to know you've got everything, when you go the website, and they don't offer installation destructions or a parts list for what you're ordering!!!!:smart:Rant off!!!

An '04, 305hp/555torque........or and '04.5, 325hp/600torque???? My Bud has an '03 with 300k + miles on her. The '03-'04's don't have kittys, so when his exhaust went, he went with a 5 inch system with a straight thru muffler. It's loud!!! Not as loud as my '99 with the 3" straight pipe, but it's loud!! You're gaining nothing by going to the larger size. If you insist, go to a straight thru muffler. Most of the restriction is in the mufflers on our trucks.............even the ones with kittys!!!

I made a tentative appointment for Monday to bring my truck in to have the "free spin hubs" installed and replace the axle u-joints. Before anyone jumps me here, I'm not set up to do this work. I could do it myself, but don't have the space or the time now. It's better for me to borrow a truck until mine is done and make money to pay for the service I need.My question is this..........I've got almost right at 100,000 miles on the replacement BJ's and TR ends. These are greasable units. Should I have them checked/replaced???? Truck still drives great and is real tight in the wheel. I ask for the simple fact that the front end is gonna be mostly apart anyway with the hub and u-joint replacement.I've got almost 14,000 miles on the new tires, and they're not wearing oddly. In fact, they still look new minus the little nubbies. So what would y'all do???

Mike just typed to you the best way to improve your mileage...................SLOW DOWN!!!! Speed not only kills people, it kills mileage. The best way to learn to slow down is to put an egg under the "go pedal" and try not to break it when driving!!!! If you think I'm kidding....................I'm not!!

Unless I over-read it in one of the posts; I don't believe anyone has posted about Mopar1973Mans "crankcase vent mod" here in this thread.Dudes, if'n his radiator and inter cooler are coated with the "oily slime" from the OEM vent tube...............all of his problemos could be due to an oily, plugged radiator and intercooler!!! Once cleared and clean, he's cruising cool as can be.Just saying, of course!!!:banghead:

'Dis is true!!! I hadn't thought of that!! Danke!!! Do you still think I'll need to keep the 3-5000 miles grease schedule on the axle u-joints after the install??? Remember, I live in the heart of the "rust belt"!!!!

That does make me feel a bit better, John. Brand names me nothing to me here in this area. I don't deal with this stuff, and when I do, I go to the parts counter and talk to the guy behind it. I just can't see replacing the axle u-joints again and then in 2-2.5 years doing it again. With this hub kit, I can pull it apart and repack the bearings or replace them and the races at minimal cost vs. the unit bearing!!!! I do plan on keeping the truck for a while yet, so hopefully it'll pay itself off. Heck; even if it doesn't pay itself off, it's still cheaper than a new truck!!! With them now trucks, you've got a whole new set of weaknesses to learn about them!!! After the install, the front driveshaft, front axles and u-joints will not be turning and subject to unnecessary wear. i'll just make it a point to put her into 4wd once a month or so to keep the seals lubed up. Hopefully I'll pickup some mileage also as there's not 130lbs. of metal rotating needlessly!!! I've also heard that because the rotating mass is eliminated, the truck "handles" better. Mine handles great now with the BD steering box brace and urethane track bar bushings............don't know how much better it can get????

Aww, come on.......go into it. I'll do my best to keep Michael from laughing. All kidding aside, glad you're well and on the fast track to recovery!!

Well boys and girls, I just ordered the SpynTec free spin hub kit. It was $1550 + $106 shipping!!! The DynaTrac kit was about $500 more, and I couldn't find enough info on the EMS or Yukon brands in order to form an opinion on either of them to consider them. SpynTec gets very good reviews. Those that don't like them, usually have or sell another brand...........at least from what I've read.I sure hope this solves my trucks axle u-joint appetite!! The kit comes with everything but the axle u-joints. I truly don't believe it's the u-joints at fault here..........I believe it's just a plain case of; not under-engineered parts, but running parts that are close to their structural limit. That, coupled with time, winter salt, and crappy Illinois roads all contribute to the early failures. It's not that I can't afford the "regular" replacement; its just that I don't think I should have to do it that often!!! When the OEM axle u-joints went at 71,000 miles; I replaced them with greaseables.................twice............not gonna do that again. Gonna try something different this time. What's the definition of insanity??? In all honesty, the greaseables lasted "LESS" time than the non-greaseable OEMS!!!!!!I'm praying that the ball joints and tie rod ends are still good. Truck drives and handles great. Still real tight. Don't want or need that right now!!! Later.

I know that AH64ID has posted about the axle weight ratings and the front end weight on the 3rd gens; and how it's pretty close to the limit stock without any weight on the truck!!!!! Also, I believe the 3rd gens turn tighter than the 2nd gens, and that'll eat up u-joints quick also. I was just wondering if anyone had real world experience with any of the free spin kits.

Mike, you must remember that you've got Dana axles in you 2nd gen; and I've got AAM axles in my '04.5. Totally different animal. My old '99 that the P's have still has the OEM's also!!!! This is a quite common occurance in 3rd gens with "miles" on them. Highway miles are the easiest, as there's little if any axle u-joint movement cruising the highway. Most of my driving is around suburbia, and I do alot of backing trailers and tight maneuvers around the barns I work at. I don't think there's anything wrong with my front end, other than it was under designed. No vibration, no shimmy, and tracks straight and true. Never heard anything on the KY trip this past Friday/Saturday either. Am I correct in assuming that with a "free spin kit", my front driveshaft, front axles, and front axle u-joints will not be turning??

Heard the tick, tick backing out of the garage this AM. Went to work, and got home 30 minutes ago. Just got done checking the axle u-joints, and I've got a dry cap on the drivers side!! I just greased the front end less than 4000 miles ago, and the axle u-joints looked good. I got grease to ooze out all the caps back then.Anyhow, if I'm gonna have the front end apart again, I'm going with a free-spin kit to save on doing axle u-joints every 50-60,000 miles. Just wondering what the resident experts here thought was the best/most economical kit to go with. There's DynaTrac, SpynTech, and I think one or two others.Must be all the trailer maneuvering I do at the barns I work at. Thanks guys.

Forgot to include this info in my original post.............whilst cruising on the interstate at 68mph+/- with the AC on.................EGT's were a solid 600*, boost ran an even 5psi over level ground, and LP pressure was 24psi on level ground.Sorry, but I wasn't checking my RP gauge while cruising with talkative passengers!!!!:doh: