Doubletrouble

I tightened it once a while back just as a precaution. I'll try again. I'm always afraid of snapping them banjo bolts.

I'm talking about the line on the rear of the cylinder head. I was under there fir something else yesterday and noticed it's wet on the back of the engine and down the bell housing. A small drip was handing on the bottom of the bell housing. It was fuel. Could see the light green color. I took my phone and tried to get a pic behind the head (it's tight back there) and it looks wet. Can't tell if it's just the copper washers leaking or if it's the line itself. So far its a small leak, just a drip. Could this cause a slight hard start issue? I noticed yesterday morning she seemed to start a bit harder than normal. (Temp was low/mid 40's) Thinking of just replacing the line, banjo and washers also whatever seals at the "T" as well. Any thoughts? See pics, best I could do in that small space.

With the temperature fluctuations here this time of year I don't know if a 200° would be good or not. We sometimes see 40-45° swings here this time of year. It was nearly 80 two days ago, tonight's low is 36.

Glad to hear you made it back with no major issues.

HMMMM, sounds very familiar. I live in N.W.Ohio, it's pretty flat here

Just don't make a wrong turn at Albuquerque! By the time you male it home your gonna sleep for a couple days straight. That's a lot of driving. I covered about 500 miles today and tomorrow probably another 300 but I do it for a living. I'm used to it. It does wear you out though

Safe travels @Mopar1973Man, don't going falling in love with that Mercedes-Benz. We may have to start a new forum. Lol

I like the 1st gens to, I'm a rather nostalgic person when it comes to cars/trucks. My grandpa had an old Dodge stake bed truck here on the farm when I was real young. I remember playing in it in the garage. Don't know what year it was but it had the narrow hood and fat front fenders. Guessing from the 40's maybe. It didn't run, never seen or heard it running but I enjoyed it. Lol

O have a harbor freight obd2 scanner that I use fir many vehicles. It does have live data to see things in real time and reads codes. It isn't as informative as @Mopar1973Man's set up with the adrenaline but it has served me well It's supposed to also link to abs but so far i have never had it link successfully to abs.

@JAG1, that's not a bad idea. In this world gotta make some money where you can. Fuel isn't cheap. Lol

Like I said, I am biased. I think the 2nd gen body style is the best looking but that just my opinion.

I agree with @Mopar1973Man, I like the ease of reapirs on the 2nd gens. Parts are way cheaper as well. This is my first diesel pick up so I may be biased but towing and hauling with this truck compared to my previous half tons is night and day. I suppose one could make the same comparison for a 4th gen to a 2nd gen. If more space and gadgets is what you want/need then go for it. Maybe keep the '02 for a while until your 100% sure you want to part with it. Keep in mind the 2nd gen trucks are getting premium money right now so don't take a big hit on it as a trade in.

Been a steeler fan since I was a kid. Thanks to my dad. I grew up watching all the old school big names. The original IRON CURTAIN!

Wow! I'd be scared to death! Lol

I have a new toy in the garage. The wife actually found it for me, a Mac tools blasting cabinet. Nothing fancy, it's used but in good shape. Had to make a "floor" for it to set parts on above the media in the bottom. Cleaned it up a bit and drained out the old media. Filled with 16lbs of new 80 grit aluminum oxide. So far so good. I cleaned up a couple small parts I had in the garage and she works pretty good. I think I'm gonna add more media though. Seems to draw air in the siphon tube as the media doesn't run back down to the bottom of the hopper fast enough. Not sure how much it should have in it. No literature came with it so figuring it out as I go. Should be a handy tool to have around. Just thought I'd share

Right, that's what I thought as well. Things are getting to be ridiculously expensive anymore.

Not sure who makes the supertech for Walmart but I did the same thing. I saw the super tech price and went online at Walmart and found the pennzoil for $18 on Amazon. It should be here today. Lol

My headliner is starting to sag in spots. Might pull it out someday and peel back the fabric and spray some adhesive then reattach the fabric. Hoping that fixes it.

Is there a possibility that you ordered or maybe they sent you a H.O. pump and your STD engine don't like it? Or vice-versa? Definitely get the w-t mod done also. That will help both now and long down the road. Are you 100% positive when the injection pump was installed the timing marks were aligned correctly? To make these engines run you need compression (for ignition of fuel) fuel pressure and proper timing for basic function. When you flushed the fuel system did you notice and air bubbles? A leak on the suction side of things can introduce air to the fuel.

She cleaned up pretty nicely. How long will it take to dry after power washing the seats? I've done carpet before with a pressure washer but usually outside of the vehicle. Never tried seats though, thought the foam would water log and never dry out.

Went for a short drive today. No vibrations and with the alligator caps I can now check and adjust tire pressure in the inner tire without trouble. The valve stem had to be in the same spot next to each other in order to have the best access to the inner stem.

Alligator caps is what the srem caps are called. You can check, inflate or deflate through the valve stem cap. I'm going to rotate my outer wheel to line up the inner stem with a hand hole so I can get in there with a gauge or tire inflator chuck and install alligator caps on the inner stem. I'll let everyone know how this works out.

Yeah, I knew that would throw things off. Honestly I don't fully trust those things. Thinking maybe the valve stem caps that have a plunger so you can check and change pressure without removing the cap. Not sure what they're called exactly.

Ok, so I've been pondering this for a minute and thought I'd toss it out here. My truck (2001 3500) has steel wheels with 7 hand holes in each wheel. I know the common practice is to offset the valve stems 180° from each other. On my wheels if I do this the inner stem is hiding behind the steel in between holes of the outer wheel and very difficult to get to. I looked in the owners manual and it really didn't say much at all about this. If the tires are balanced separately before mounting to the axle would it really matter where the valve stwms are oriented? ( assuming the 180° offset is for balance purposes) I'd like to be able to easily get to both the inner and outer to adjust pressures to the state of load on the truck. Thanks