Doubletrouble

They look rugged. Never been in one though. Thanks for the pics!

@dripley, what noise is that? Suction? Like in the old school days when you flip the lid of the air cleaner in a carbureted gasser?

Think of it as a warning whistle for other drivers that your spooling up and ready to unleash the beast. Just like when a guy at work told me my truck was leaking (water separator valve on the filter housing) I told him "it isn't leaking, it's sweating torque"

Curious, if the turbo vanes are dirty is there a way to clean them up before installing a BHAF?

So is your truck right hand drive then? Or was it an american import? I haul cars for a living, mostly dodge/jeep all different models and have driven a few right hand drives. Man does that freak me out! Especially when we have to back them up onto the truck, you only have roughly 15" of ramp under each side. Not alot if room for mistakes.

They're probably afraid to work on such a big vehicle. Would a semi truck shop touch it? It's about the size of your semi trucks over there. Lol

I have to ask, and this is off topic. How do we post pics now? I tried and got a warning that said pic is to large? I don't know how to adjust my phone to make the file size smaller. Or is there something else I need to do? Never had this issue before.

Usually but he said it's on a ford. Might be backwards......lol Is this one of the fords that have that long control arm setup in the front? Those were known for weird tire wear.

I would agree on the camber. Possibly a toe in setting. Wheel bearings, I don't think they would cause such tire wear unless they were ready to fall off. Does the tire appear to tip out at the top? Maybe put a level on it vertically and see a ballpark for the camber?

Been several days now since I finished this repair. Seems that the engagement has moved slightly. She now engages closer to the top of the pedal travel. I don't know if this means that a new clutch is on the horizon or if this is considered normal. Everything feels fine while driving. Slides into and out if the gears just fine, no noise or weird feeling to it. Nice and smooth, just engages a little high. Any thoughts?

Ok, I remember the truck now. Love the front bumper. Any progress on the '02?

Put them both in the sig pic. Just a thought...... I don't recall this truck. My memory isn't great but, us this the one that had a flat bed on it that you were going to use for mobile mechanic work? Or am I thinking if a different one?

and sir, where are the pics?

I was curious. I believe the previous owner may have smoked with the windows up. It's pretty yellowed. Like nicotine stains. I'd like to clean that and maybe get a brighter LED bulb for it. With only one light in the base model it's not very bright in there at night.

The dome light has a release tab on one side then it just swings down to replace the bulb. I'd like to remove it to clean it. I don't want to break it in the process.

Anyone know how to remove the dome light lens on a base model dome light? I wanted to take it off to clean it. It's a little dingy and thought I would get more light that way. Probably change the bulb to an LED eventually. Or for the sake of conversation, would an over head console bolt in if I would find a decent one at a salvage yard? Just curious.

I think next time around I will have to buy the kit. The end of the line to the slave was corroded and will most likely have to be replaced by the time I have to mess with it again. I took her for a drive down the road and back. Clutch pedal feels good. Clutch engages about half way as you bring the pedal up. What a difference. Now just have to get used to the new clutch feel.

No, the bleed screw is still on the top of the slave unless you mount it upside down. The problem is the line from the master goes down then does a 180 and turns up then across the top of the firewall and the turns down again to go to the slave. Air gets trapped in the horizontal run at the top of the firewall and it's hard to get out.

Got the master and slave installed. Had to clean up the line end at the slave a bit, it was a little corroded. Bench bleed everything like in @Mopar1973Man's video but still had air in the line somehow. Unbolted the master and hung the reservoir from the hood, removed the slave and cycled the slave to bleed air out. That worked like a charm. Reinstalled everything and clutch feels great! Will do a test drive after lunch. Old master was definitely leaking a bit, had the oem plastic slave on it still. Replaced both with metal pieces.

I'm still adjusting to diesel timing and so on. I've worked on gassers for years. With those it's all ignition timing through spark advance/retard. A diesel is the injection event, no spark needed.

I've noticed in recent years that parking spaces here have seemed to shrink. I have a 3500 dually and if I am in the line I am within an inch on each side. Most times touching both sides. They want everyone to drive these little tiny toy cars now days. I refuse. I'll park out further and walk a bit before I drive an econo go-cart.

@wil440, that makes sense. I was trying to understand how/why the head would have "lifted" off the gasket. Your explanation makes sense to me. Thanks. Hopefully @Mopar1973Man's head is fine, no cracks or the like. I imagine a new head for the 5.9 would not be cheap by any means. Keep us posted mike! Good luck.

I received the clutch slave and master yesterday. There is no new seal for the line in the box for the master. Hoping I can reuse the old one. It's against my better judgement but I want to install them tomorrow.

and another reason I don't want to go to far with mine as in power mods that is. I want reliable, long life. I know mike has a ton more miles than I do and it's been a good truck for him, no argument there. I just don't want to have to do head gaskets and the like when they fail because of mods I have put on to pump it up.

With the size of the head that would be a beech setting it back on and not gouging the new gasket.