Doubletrouble

Mine is like that on the driver's side as well. Planning on replacing both sides at the same time, possibly the middle one to. Right now they work for flat ground but I leave it in gear when on an incline just to be sure she don't move

There is a tach in the dash, I assume it's driven by electrical signal. Being it's a '67 I believe that's how it was done. This is just something I've been considering just to make it more reliable and easier to start. The truck sits alot but I do have some plans for it this summer. I want to put in another gravel driveway, haul some grain and some other odd hauling jobs. For what ever reason I'm kind of find of this old truck. Don't know what it is but I like messing with it. Maybe the nostalgia of 1967? I don't know. Lol Considering swapping out the 2bbl carb and manifold for a 4bbl as well. A buddy has a 600 Holley that can be had cheap just need to find a manifold.

That's what I thought. Just wanted to double check. I think that would help it start a little easier and be more reliable.

I have a '67 Chevy C50 farm truck I've been thinking of converting to HEI from the original points. Not sure what I need to do it. I've heard it's easy just want to get everything I need before I start. Any input would be great. Thanks.

I don't have any experience with diesel tuners so just gonna toss out a name, Bullydog? I don't know what they may have available for that truck. Have heard of them though.

Gotcha, just curious.

Quad adrenaline won't fit the bill? Or are you just looking to experiment with something different?

I agree. I don't think I did bad at least for this area. It does have a gooseneck in the bed and fifth wheel rails as well. I believe both should be attached to the frame also correct? The gooseneck in my truck now is attached to the frame. I assume they would all be considering the weight they pull.

Very true. There are 2 broken mounting bolts I'm going to have to get out somehow. Hopefully they won't give me to much grief.

Not a bad idea either. I'm trying to get ideas on how to make it last. We all know the drivetrain will well outlast the body. I have a chance here to try to prolong the rust gremlins from getting another 2nd gen bed.

A buddy found this for me, a second gen dually bed with fenders, tail gate and rear bumper. Bed was Rino lined, under side has very little rust at all. Came with the tail lights also but they were broken. I did scavenge the led bulbs though. So, truth. Was $400 a decent deal for this? Next, how to proceed, should I get the under side blasted to remove any rust then undercoat? Any other/better ideas? I'm in north west ohio so we do get salt snow and ice here. Want to do what I can to make it last before I think about swapping them. Check out the pics. Thanks! Oh, the bed also has aluminum diamond plate rail protectors and a camo tail gate cap as well. The passenger fender does have a chunk out of the fiberglass but I do have the piece that goes there. I was told it could be fixed

There's a joke there but I'll let it go. 🤣 I wasn't sure if they were reliable just because I've never seen mine move. I have seen them work on big trucks (18 wheelers and such) but not my dodge. Not yet at least

Did your filter minder show that it was dirty? I ask because I wonder if they really work. Mine hasn't moved a bit since I bought the truck.

Thanks for the pic! I see how that could make a difference.

@Mopar1973Man, what type of heat shield for the trans? You have a 5speed same as I do, what are the trans temps like while towing?

They look rugged. Never been in one though. Thanks for the pics!

@dripley, what noise is that? Suction? Like in the old school days when you flip the lid of the air cleaner in a carbureted gasser?

Think of it as a warning whistle for other drivers that your spooling up and ready to unleash the beast. Just like when a guy at work told me my truck was leaking (water separator valve on the filter housing) I told him "it isn't leaking, it's sweating torque"

Curious, if the turbo vanes are dirty is there a way to clean them up before installing a BHAF?

So is your truck right hand drive then? Or was it an american import? I haul cars for a living, mostly dodge/jeep all different models and have driven a few right hand drives. Man does that freak me out! Especially when we have to back them up onto the truck, you only have roughly 15" of ramp under each side. Not alot if room for mistakes.

They're probably afraid to work on such a big vehicle. Would a semi truck shop touch it? It's about the size of your semi trucks over there. Lol

I have to ask, and this is off topic. How do we post pics now? I tried and got a warning that said pic is to large? I don't know how to adjust my phone to make the file size smaller. Or is there something else I need to do? Never had this issue before.

Usually but he said it's on a ford. Might be backwards......lol Is this one of the fords that have that long control arm setup in the front? Those were known for weird tire wear.

I would agree on the camber. Possibly a toe in setting. Wheel bearings, I don't think they would cause such tire wear unless they were ready to fall off. Does the tire appear to tip out at the top? Maybe put a level on it vertically and see a ballpark for the camber?

Been several days now since I finished this repair. Seems that the engagement has moved slightly. She now engages closer to the top of the pedal travel. I don't know if this means that a new clutch is on the horizon or if this is considered normal. Everything feels fine while driving. Slides into and out if the gears just fine, no noise or weird feeling to it. Nice and smooth, just engages a little high. Any thoughts?