Doubletrouble

I'm sure that truck was very abused and disposable to whom ever used it. Hopefully you got it all worked out. I may just replace the water pump to since I'll have the cooling system open already. Gonna get all the pieces and parts lined up and here. It's my daily driver so it can't be down for long. I could use the wife's car but........na

So I am planning on a coolant flush before fall. Should I just go ahead and replace the water pump to and do the KDP keeper/front seal as well?

As @wil440said, that 45 looks pretty uniform but,, did it maybe break off?

To bad there is no way of knowing if you have the updated case cover without opening it up. Until the mechanic at work started questioning me about it I wasn't all that concerned really. Now he has me 2nd guessing it again.

I may or may not have asked about this before. I searched but didn't find anything so here we go. My truck is a 2001 3500. Is this KDP I've read about an issue or was it resolved before my truck was built? I have a mechanic at work (trucking comoany) that says I need to tear into the front of the engine and put a tab washer on the bolt closest to this pin to stop it from backing out. I have read about it quite a bit and got no definitive answer as to whether or not they fixed the issue by '01 model year. Any input? Thanks all! Also, sorry if this has been discussed before, maybe I don't know how to use the search correctly.

Oh wow. That could have been a disaster!

I don't know for sure if the diesel around here is bio or not. The pump don't say it is. Are they required to state if it is or not? I run the 2 stroke oil anyway just to help lube the pump. They're expensive and I'd rather not chance it. Sooner or later I'm sure it will wear out but I'd like to make it last as long as I can.

What in the world is that!? Glad to see you didn't get hurt or tear anything up real bad other than the tire Mike.

For whatever reason the images didn't come up. I worked with a guy that did that and was part owner of the business. He offered to do my truck at the time but it would have been basically a rolling billboard for him so I declined. Scratch the first sentence, refreshed the page and the ages loaded.

So it does help with cab noise? And worth the effort and expense? I ask because I've never used it. Never been one to have a booming stereo like that. I'd like to add that stuff inside once I get the rockers and floors free of the rust gremlins. Then the sound deadening and carpet.

Just for future reference, it's called dynamat. Not sure if that's the company that makes it or what. I was planning on doing the same thing to mine. I'd like to add carpet as well. Mine is a basic truck, no frills.

Yep, that's the one I have. Expensive little bugger. Before I buy a new one I want to test the thermocouple.

I want to say it's a suburban? I'll have to look again. It's the old style, no electronic ignition.

We have an '89 jayco with a 5 gal. Hot water heater. The pilot light won't stay on after lighting, holding the button a couple minutes. It will just go out. I replaced the pilot light burner and thermocouple a year ago when the problem started and haven't had any luck with it. Didn't camp much last year so didnt worry about it (thanks covid). But now we have a couple trips planned and would like it to work. The electric part of the heater works but I prefer gas as it recovers faster.

They look good.

I haven't heard to much about the ecodiesels. My dad was interested in them and asked me about them but just haven't heard much. I don't know anyone that has one either.

Great write up Mike. All good information, a diesel engine creates a lot of heat when working even if just driving an empty truck. Add a load or loaded trailer or camper and the heat builds from there. The radiators are big for a reason. One question, if one buys a used 2nd Gen Cummins truck (or any Gen for that matter) and finds corrosion in the cooling system when flushing such as light rust on the surfaces in the block. Is there a way to remove it? A chemical maybe that would clean that up without damaging anything else? I ask because I feel a clean metal surface would transfer heat better than a rusty one and once the surface rust is gone there is less chance of any small particals moving through and plugging things up or taking out the seals of the water pump.

Same here! Love seeing old Iron given new life and to repower with a Cummins is just cool!

They are running some pretty thin oils lately. Seems to me that once it is to thin there is a point to where it would no longer do what it's supposed to. I guess with the thin oil, a higher volume oil pump and good pressure you still get the flowing fluid layer you need to lubricate bearings? Myself, I'll stick with 15/40 but mine is an '01.

I have to ask, how difficult is it to get the head back in place and drop it down on the studs? Doesn't look like one would have much room with all the studs sticking up from the block. Mainly in the rear cowl area.

Curious, I'll be watching to see what you find. Also, TIPM?

I agree, if you can give the pump a break. I like Mike's idea of timers and switching between the 2 hoses to take away some of the demand.

Maybe it was bigfoot?