Doubletrouble

Honestly, at first there most likely won't be a tuner. They're expensive and I don't have that in my budget yet. Would I like one? Yes. But I will have to go in steps. With a hair over 150k on the injectors and the readings from the scanner they need replaced. Don't want to replace with stock just to change them again later. So I was thinking get +50 or +75's and possibly a boost elbow to push some extra air to help with the smoke til I can afford a tuner. When it's time for a tuner, I've been thinking about a quad zxt mainly for price point. I know everyone seems to favor the quadzilla but I'll be honest, I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with the technical level of that one. I've read some of the post concerning the quadzilla and some of the jargon is a foreign language to me.

Thank you both for the info. My plan is to have a system similar to yours @Mopar1973Man with the exception of the air dog (for now at least). I'll use the fass ddrp that's on the truck now and relocate it. With that set up I won't flow as much volume as with an AD but it will still improve with the increased line size (3/8" compared to stock). Also will be keeping the stock filter for the WIF light and heat aspect. From my reading/learning so far I think that will work for the injectors I'm planning on in the future ( either +50 or +75hp, haven't completely decided yet).

And for those of use that don't know, what is asphaltine? I'm assuming like a tar substance of some sort? Just getting that from the name.

I'm coming up on the 15k mark on the under hood filter so I'll just change them both at that point. I have here lately been using some farm fuel so there may be some debris in it from that. It that air dog filter a metal screen type? It looks like it in the pic.

Based on this, how often should the small inline pre pump filter be changed? Once I get the fuel lines updated I will feel better about the amount of filtration and fuel volume for the vp44 but for now I'm still using the stock setup with a fass ddrp.

Then I will seriously consider this route. Once I get back to work and get funds flowing again. I have the filter head just need the reducer fittings and the relocation kit. Probably go with 3/8" lines as said before. I'd like to do this upgrade and gauges all at once if possible.

I can't say I've ever seen any from mopar either. I'm sure they probably had them back when the second gens were fairly new yet. Haven't laid eyes on one though.

Do they come with one from the factory?

Oh, I didn't buy it new. It was used when I got it. Born in 1970.

I'll have to make some more for my grill. Have to make a good template first. Did the cardboard when it was already cold out so it was not the best but it worked. Also, do you run the 200° T-stat year round? Is it advisable to do so? Sure the climate here in the summer may be different from you location. Summer temps sometime tip 100 so not sure if that would be to much or not.

@Mopar1973Man, isn't that the second time now that the shifter got stuck some how? What material did you used for your grill inserts? I made some of cardboard last winter but would.like to do something that will last much longer.

Same here. I believe we are close in age @Mopar1973Man. Gas here may have been in that ball park. I don't remember. Lol I know at 16 years old I had a 1978 mustang with the 4 cylinder overhead cam and it seemed like a few dollars in gas went a long way back then.

Hopefully you'll find some good dry wood to burn. I use only wood to heat our home as well and know how important it is to have good dry stuff especially when we get a cold snap like now. Temp outside at the moment is 8°, keeping it a nice cozy 68-70 inside. We mostly find ash around here, all dead fall stuff but I got lucky and found a dead standing oak of some sort that is nice and dry (23% average) that is burning great. I'll admit though, I have a tough time identifying tree species. I know ash and a couple others but if it's dry it burns.

I haven't used mine alot but your saying it will keep the cab warm and ice off the windows overnight? I've never heard that. Maybe I should us it more. Lol I hope Mopar1973man gets some firewood. I've been there before, it sucks. I was out in -10° weather cutting and splitting anything I could find dry enough to burn. Not a good situation.

I suppose your right there. I have to venture out again today for a little while. I'll probably plug her in again an hour or two before I plan on leaving. This morning is 6° out. A bit chilly.

Have to admit I'm a bit jealous, a '57 chevy is probably my favorite car. Doesn't matter if it's stick or some what modified, love the body style.

I think you all have a few years on me. I remember gas being around $.70/gallon and mcnasty burgers were $.75 I think. The local mcdonald's here used to have $.25 burger night on Thursdays. Not anymore though. Now I won't even eat their food, it's horrible.

I had mine plussed in for 1.5 hours today before starting. I did not check coolant temp but it sounded much happier than if no block heater was used.

I haven't plugged in yet this year until now. Been a mild winter. This week though highs are in the teens and lows in single digits to -2 at night. Just thought I'd ask what others do to compare.

Just curious as how you all use your block heater. I am of the mind set that the more you use something the faster it will wear out so I try not to over use things if not needed. So that leads to: Is it better to leave it plugged in all night or possibly for a day or two at a time or would it be best to just plug in an hour or so before you fire it up? Any advantage to either practice? This morning the outside temp is 9° so I figured on plugging in an hour before start up today just to aid in warm up and easy cranking. It should start fine without it but I know it will be easier on the engine with a little heat in there.

I like the idea of not having to remove fuel line clamps and having fuel run down my arms and what not. The longer change intervals will be a plus as well. When you change filters does it prime itself or so you fill the new filter first to aid in priming? On a semi we usually fill the filters before install.

Ah, ok that makes more sense now. That's basically what I have inline now. I believe it's what came with the fass ddrp. There was one inline when I got the truck, since replaced with new Wix 33270 when I changed the filter under the hood.

@LorenS, the one i have is similar to the one in the pick of your link. Mine has larger threaded inlet and outlet ports that are at the moment reduced via brass barb fittings to fit the return hose on a log splitter. Will that matter as far as priming and or drawing fuel? @IBMobile, how does the line size affect filter part number. Wouldn't it be more dependant on base and thread size of said filter? Just wondering. I think when I do this I will probably use 3/8" line since I don't plan on going to far with performance mods. 3/8" should be plenty for 300hp or less from what I have read. Thanks for the comments so far.

That's what I was going for. I have a fass ddrp in the stock location now. When I upgrade the fuel lines I want to move it closer to the tank, install a draw straw to a pre filter then into the OEM filter housing and so forth.

This may be a little off the wall but you don't know til ya ask. I have a filter head from a log splitter, would I be able to utilize this as a pre lift pump filter if I can locate a filter of suitable micron rating? Has anyone tried this? What were your results? I'm just curious at this point. I would like to revamp my fuel system over the summer and add gauges as well so kinda planning things in my head since I'm sitting home bored. Lol. Thanks for any input.