Joe_Pool

Look above and click on "Downloads". Then download the 2002 FSM (Full Size Manual". Should have what you are looking for as far as diagrams and pinouts are concerned.

#99287 is what I used on a 2001 D80 with discs. You will need to modify the driver to install it -- cut a center hole to clear the spindle and drive with length of hollow tube. You might also check with local axle/truck repair and see if they do weld fill and remachining of spindle seal surfaces (portable lathe mounts to spindle and machines surface) if it is very worn (a speedi sleeve can only repair so much). Also cover the seal area with gray or black gasket maker before you set the sleeve (fills void for a better bearing surface support and stops back leaks). Gotta love those "oil cooled" brake shoes!

Look at the Nitto Trail Grappler (I have 285/75R16E size on my 2500 Cummins and they are great -- no lift), they are very much like the original BFG Mud Terrain (not the crap KM2 or KM3 redesign).

Also check that the CAD collar is fully engaging (if CAD equipped). May be "floating" in a turn position if not fully engaged and jumping on the teeth. The floor shifter may be moving easily, but the vacuum actuator may not be fully engaging the axle lock collar.

Nitto Terra Grapplers(AT) and Trail Grapplers(MT). Have had great luck with both.

Freeway diesel prices are higher because it isn't as easy to go downtown with a large truck as it is with a car.

I'm new to the Smarty, just got one. For initial install I disconnected my Edge EZ and reconnected the factory plug. The programming went smoothly, including the tire size adjustment (factory 265/75R16 to 255/85R16 -- 32.75"). Questions: In the future should I disconnect the EZ to change SW# and is it normal on initial ABS adjustment to show current tire size as 00.00" ? Also, to be clear --- Even SW# with Edge EZ and Odd or Even SW# Smarty alone? After ABS adjustment it shows current tire size as 32.75" and the 2 #s indicating currently vin locked to my truck. Thanks for any info, Joe

Also, you may also need a scan tool (DRBIII, Genysis, OTC, ...) capable of activating the ABS module to flush old fluid out and any air trapped in module. Not as simple as the old days.

Pressure from master cylinder end is my preferred method. If you want to vacuum bleed the system try pulling the bleeder nipples and coat the threads with paste type anti seize compound (helps to keep the nipples free and prevents air infiltration during bleeding process. Also be sure to replace any missing bleeder nipple covers (keeps junk & moisture out). Joe

Versachem 11109 (Amazon) Works every time. Clean glass area with razor blade first, followed by brake cleaner on a paper towel, followed by alcohol (wipe, not to drink!). Slightly scuff button and clean with brake cleaner and alcohol. Then follow instructions on package. Do not touch either bonding surface with your hands (oil residue -- will cause failure). Good luck Joe

If the locker you want isn't available for a 70 it probably isn't available for the 80 either. FYI - do some research on the e-lockers, they have a built in flaw that you may not like. When going from forward to reverse or reverse to forward they will unlock for approximately 1/4-to 1/2 a wheel revolution due to the cam locking design (may not be a big deal for you). ARBs are locked as long as air is supplied. Check out this site:

Instead of Limited Slip Differential, you might consider an ARB air locker. Best of both worlds -- open diff until you need it, then basically a spool when locked.

Disregard this response, I missed that you already ordered a pump. Another option FASS Titanium 95gph.

I ran my fingernail over the numbers and they are indeed etched into the metal.

Thanks for the responses. I hadn't thought about laser engraving. I will be getting these for my future upgrade. Just wanted to make sure they are legit and it looks like they are good to go.

Looking at some Bosch 0 432 193 635 injectors. They are in what appear to be Bosch boxes and sealed in yellow plastic bags. The numbers are stenciled (inked) on them. They are packed individually. Are the numbers supposed to be engraved or inked on these?. I am attaching 3 pictures.

Also check your batteries: Are they matched -- same lot and age. Mismatched batteries will draw to the lowest voltage, a downward spiral. In essence the battery with higher voltage will try to charge the battery with lower voltage constantly drawing down.

I believe you are mating two incompatible wiring harnesses. The '98 was set up for "+" switching of the lights (constant ground at the lights) and the 2001 is set up for "-" switching of the lights (constant positive at the lights). On a '98 the common terminal on the head lights is connected to ground "-" and on a 2001 the common terminal is connected to positive "+". I think you need to do some conversion wiring. It seems like you have a mismatch of feed to the switch and what is needed to complete the light circuit (sending a ground feed to a grounded light = no circuit) I believe the switching changed in 2000. I ran into a snow plow headlight issue when moving my plow from a 1998 to a 2002 Ram. Joe

As a side note: Weight equalization hitches also assist on better braking -- even pressure maintained on axles & tires (contols trailer nose dive and tow vehicle nose lift). Joe

How about something like this directly on the door or side of trailer? https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/marker-clearance/oval-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-7-led-side-clearance-lights-w-8-high-flux-leds-bullet-connector/601/1839/?gclid=CjwKCAjwkun1BRAIEiwA2mJRWZqnv_RfX3cscA8fPIVepDt_UsC4gGhcK_N4CKQtjhbJ6U4adelhLBoCOMkQAvD_BwE

For your signatue 1. Click on your name at the top of the page 2. Click "Account Settings" 3. On left side click "Signature" 4. Enter/Edit your info and then "SAVE" at the bottom. Hope this helps Joe

As far as fluid is concerned -- DO NOT USE ATF -- use power steering fluid. I researched it a few years back and found that Valvoline 799222 is the correct fluid type for hydroboost systems. It can be found in gallon containers (will need at least 3 qts for flush). I was told by a Dodge mechanic that ATF can actually attack the seals in the hydroboost unit.

Look at a PK11893 (Pollak replacement 7 RV connector, vehicle end) It should connect to your existing pigtail.

When I installed my vacuum pump/power steering pump I used Permatex High Tack adhesive on both sides of the timing cover to pump gasket -- no leaks after 4 years.

My 2002 2500 has the 241DHD. I am pretty sure the automatic units have a 23 spline input and the manual units have a 29 spline input. If you have the plow prep package with an automatic you will usually have the 241DHD.