diesel4life

I believe 00 was the first year of front abs along with the slip on rotors. That's odd that an 01 would not have them, maybe it was just an option and not standard equipment.Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

There are no pins that could possibly back out like the 2nd gens were plagued with are there? I know it was supposedly remedied when they went to the 3rd gens, it just seems strange to have a failure such as thisSent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

I don't know of any single add on that will net a 6 mpg increase.....now that i think about it I dont know that you could do much of anything to net an increase of 6 mpg above the manufacturers ratings short of cutting the body off and throwing it in the scrap pile.Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

No Smarty needed, however if you know someone that has one they can activate it for you without going to the dealer. I forget the temps needed to activate the high idle and 3 cylinder high idle but it is in the ballpark of the low 20s and low teens for each. The IAT sensor has to read this so it actuallh has to be colder ambient temps. Also if your truck has been plugged in the temp registered by the coolant sensor will override the high idle features. This is where something like the fooler is nice because you can activate it whenever you want regardless of temps.Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

I can't speak for each individual but mine has not been an issue to date. Of course there are much hotter climates than where I am and that might possibly have something to do with it. I also don't spend a lot of time idling or low speed city driving. Most all of my miles are rural so I've constantly got cool air coming into the engine. For a point of reference, my Mustang GT has never had insulation under the hood, nor has our Mountaineer. I realize the turbo would be the primary area of concern compared to a normally aspirated engine, but it has not been a problem for me to date.Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Different pop pressure? Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

You may be able to score one out of a junkyard from a trashed hood for a few bucks. Mine is long gone and havent really felt the need to replace it. Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

In 3 cylinder high idle, the truck ramps up to 1200 rpm on all cylinders and then the ecm cuts fuel to 3 cylinders. This forces the remaining cylinders to "drag" the "dead" cylinders. It essentially is forcing the engine to work, and work creates heat. This is a software program directly from Dodge, you don't need the mpg fooler to utilize this. Either someone with a Smarty can enable it or the dealer can flash your truck if it hasn't already been done. What the fooler does is give you control of when you want to use it. Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Upper Michigan is beautiful, been up there a few times over the years for work. You have to like winters though! Congrats on the retirement and getting out of Dodge, er, Ohio while you still can. A real shame what this state has come too in the last 10 years. I got real fortunate in getting into welding right out of high school, stuck with it and put my nose to the grind for 13 years and it has paid off in more ways than I could have ever imagined. Living on the Great Lakes is a definite bonus also. If it wasn't for this specific location and landing a job that pays better than most college degrees (including my wifes 4 yr RN degree), we would have been gone a long time ago. There just isn't too many options in the area anymore if you don't own a 500+ acre farm. It sounds like you know what your getting into and it's great you have the ability to stay ahead of the curve. Best of luck to you! Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Like has been mentioned there is entirely too much load being put on the electrical system to sustain long term use of the grid heaters. They are designed to run in short bursts and even at that they deplete the reservoir of the batteries quicker than the alternator can sustain. You would be placing a large strain on the alternator and pulling the batteries down to 8-10 volts sustained is not good either. Even if you could get around this, I think the benefits would be marginal. You need to put heat into the coolant, air temps will only get you so far in that aspect. The 3 cylinder high idle works great as does the high idle if you have an EB. We get lots of cold weather here as well, and lots of frost with the high humidity we see year around. I typically start my truck, scrape the windows off and get in and go. If it is below 15 degrees I will generally hit the 3 cyl high idle after it has been running a minute and let it run for 5 to 10 minutes at most and drive easy until it gets up to tempSent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

It is a viscous unit. Constantly adapts to engine load/torque. Also is a one piece unit unlike OEM so no parts to ever wear out. They do appear to be substantially better than OEM but I have a hard time justifying double the cost compared to OEM, especially when mine has lasted 15 years. Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Anybody know the reason they won't work on the early 24 valves? Mine is still the original unit. I've only got a hair over 100k miles on the truck but at 15 years it's starting to make me think about changing it out just to be proactive. I know Fluid damper makes them for my year truck but I don't like the price tag that comes with them. The OEM seems to have done it's job, especially for half the price.... Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Gas dropped to $2.99 within 60 miles of me....first time I've seen it below $3 a gallon since I can remember. Strangely enough, fuel prices are still well over $3.80. WTFSent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

I had an interesting conversation with a Chrysler trans engineer recently about the new ATF+4 fluids. He conceded that the new transmissions primarily have longer service intervals due to the newer spec fluids. He also said it would be safe to push the 47 past the recommended intervals of 30k because that interval was based on ATF +3 specs. While I do value his opinion I'm not sure I'm completely ready to bet my transmission on him even though my 30k+ mile fluid looked very clean with minimal clutch material in the pan, so when I approach that mark again I will be sending in a sample to see where the fluid is at. Long story short, even at 30k intervals you are likely being very proactive.Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

You think YOU had a bad day, what about the poor horse?? JR now Free

I bought a set of factory 4th gen take offs (tires and wheels) from a 2012 with low miles this spring for $400. I thought I was getting a great deal but it didnt take long to realize why the owner ditched the tires. Traction for what I need is horrible. I'm afraid to even let the wife drive my truck in any wet weather because the traction is so poor the rear end will step out in a heart beat when accelerating if your not driving with an egg between your foot and the go pedal. I'm about to replace them in the next week or two as snow season is fast upon us. I'm torn between trying out a set of Treadwrights or the Nitto Duragrapplers, I've been seeing some good reviews on the Nittos but it's hard to overlook the prices of the Treadwrights and they seem like a reliable tire from the reviews I see. Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Another one I've seen before is the lower hose collapsing under higher engine loads. I don't believe it's possible with the Cummins all the lower hoses I've seen are reinforced but on smaller engines where it is a straight hose when they get thin the water pump will actually suck the hose in partially at higher loads which causes aenough of a restriction to overheat an engine, esp in hot weather JR now Free

Exactly my thoughts. A "reuseable" paper filter is about as scary as a reuseable oiled air filter.... I think your on the right track, however IMO a Fleetguard is the best you can get. (Fleetguard IS Cummins) Russ also brings up an excellent point. A restrictive intake upstream of the filter would have the same effect. JR now Free

The fan has little bearing on cooling at highway speeds, it is primarily needed at lower driving speeds/idling. I would replace the thermostat, it is too cheap not to especially given it's a fairly common part to fail. If that doesn't do it I would pull the water pump and inspect the impeller for any damage or corrosion. Also check your radiator for oil/dirt contamination. The factory blow by hose tends to cover the radiator with oil and will plug it off over time.Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Big shortage around here too. What is available is going at a premium. Reloads are fast becoming the only way to go.....Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

Did you try to reset the filter minder to see if it drops back down?It could be very possible to have it drawn down that far if you drive in dusty climates. You may have to blow it out sooner than the 25k mark. Does Amsoil give any specific do's and don'ts on blowing the filter out? Blowing filters out with compressed air always makes me nervous. Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

That is about all your going to get out of a stock lift pump. They don't do any better right out of the box. Low fuel pressure lights generally don't come on until around 2 to 3 p.s.I. JR now Free

I'm confused, what does this have to do with a w/d set up? Going by the title I was under the impression that was what you were having problems with. Sorry, sometimes the simplest of things can confuse me. OK, going back over the first post with a different mind set I understand more better. "I see said the blind man as he picked up the hammer and saw". JR now Free

Russ, forgive me for not quite understanding, are you having a problem with unhitching the w/d hitch or actually unhitching the trailer itself? The only type of w/d hitch I am familiar with is the type that uses the length of chain on the trailer side and you increase tension by removing the number of links to the tension side of the bars. I am not seeing any mounts for a w/d system on your trailer tongue? JR now Free

Interesting, please post back your findings. Did you paint them to match your truck cap or did you get that lucky to find a set in that color? I've got the exact same truck cap on my 2nd gen, I love the extra head room it offers over the standard caps. Only thing I don't like about it is it is dark blue (my truck is red) and does not match at all. I've been contemplating having it painted for some time now. JR now Free