Ilikeoldfords

I'll throw my piece in. I chose to go with the Hankook A/T's. They are the best tire I have ever had. I have over 30k on them and they still look brand new. They ran great in the snow and ice up in ND last year. They are really stable and ride nice and smooth and quiet. They do come with a 60k warranty but my cousin (runs the tire shop I got them at) showed me a couple sets that came back with over 75k miles that still had plenty of life left in them (20-30%).

Did they bed-line the entire body? Not sure I like it to much but to each their own I guess. That is one cool rig though!!

Cool. I did 3/8's lines all the way when I did mine. I built my full system from scratch because I could get all the pieces a lot cheaper than buying the kit at the time. Looking back I really should have done the 1/2in lines. I have a pretty good pressure drop from idle to WOT now but maybe someday when I have enough money to upgrade to a mechanical pump, I will just do the entire system again. I do have a fuel tank sump I am going to install soon. I am hoping that will help with some of my pressure drop issues.

I haven't seen anywhere that salted worse than ND. They put so much of that crap down that all the roads turned white. If you drove through a puddle, your truck would turn white. Almost any and every vehicle that was at least 10 years old all had giant holes in the wheel wells above the tire because all that stuff would get up in there and sit. It was horrible. I was washing the truck at least once a week if not more just to get all that crap off, and that is a lot easier said than done when it is -30*F average for 4 months.

You might try rechecking the codes. As far as I know, it is pretty impossible to have the 1693 code with out another code. You might try the key trick to see if you get anything else. Maybe that snappy is only seeing one computer?? I am not sure. Turn the key on and off three times, leaving it on the third time. Have a pen and pad ready to write codes down. Watch the odometer and the codes will be listed off both the ECM and PCM, so make sure you wait until all the codes have been read for both.

Keep in mind that the AC noise doesn't just effect the transmission. It is also harmful to the other computers like the ECM and PCM. Both auto and manual trucks really shouldn't be exposed to excessive AC noise at all. It is just a lot more noticeable in the auto trucks I think.

I did the same thing when I first put my raptor on too. I just wanted to make sure the pump was going to work before I hooked all the lines up and holy cow!! Wasn't expecting that much fuel to all come out at once. Did you use 1/2 lines or??

I have seen people have more issues running isolators than anything else I think when it came to false gauge readings. I would just eliminate it when you can. I have had my gauge straight plumbed into the cab with just a needle valve. In case of any issue, I can just open the hood and turn the valve off. I just feel like you will get the most accurate readings this way.

You should be able to run 1200* for extended periods of time and up to 1400* for a quick second. Personally, I never let mine go above 1100*. Why push the limits and break something?

I got all ISSPRO gauges when I did mine. I really like them. They do seem well built and they all lived through winter in Grand Forks, ND last year where it got down to about -50 F a couple of times. I agree that mechanical is way better than electric just because you know for sure that is what is really happening out there. With electric, its whatever the sender says is happening. Don't really trust it.

I just top off each cell with distilled water. Don't fill it all the way to the top!!! It will boil over if it is to the top. I usually just fill it right to the bottom of the plastic battery top. If you look inside the cell, you can see where the plastic top of the battery ends, then all the guts and everything are beneath that a little ways. Just go to the bottom of that plastic. If that makes sense...

They are sometimes called speedy sleeves. Just a thin piece of metal that will slide over the sealing surface if that surface has worn out. They are common on trailer spindles and axle pinions. It is amazing what that little rubber seal will do to a metal spindle over time.

Doing it that way does take the stress off of the ECM. Right now, all the power to run the pump via the stock harness is actually coming from the ECM.

How old is the airdog? What model is it? It sounds like you might just have a restriction in the line somewhere. Most of the pump failures I have heard of will either just stop working, or slowly lose pressure and eventually stay at 0 psi because the pump gets to hot internally. If it has an adjustable regulator, have you tried turning up the pressure at all?

He has like 4 other rigs. 3rd gens and 4th gens I believe.

I am very sorry to hear about your house fire but you couldnt ask for a better deal on the truck stuff!! Pretty jealous over here...

Just curious, why the fiberglass hood? And, depending on which BHAF you got it could be pretty quiet. I started out with a pretty small BHAF and I heard the whistle real good. I changed filters after about a year and went to a much thicker filter. The whistle almost went away completely.

Yep. I found it. Still a pureflow raptor 100 but it is the universal pump. Here.

I don't remember who I purchased it from, maybe thouroghbred Diesel, but I was able to purchase just the raptor pump by itself. All is had was the little 6in pigtail sticking out of it. No other harnesses or anything. I will try to figure out where I got it from.

Ok. I wasn't sure because when I got my raptor I just got the pump. No harness, nothing but the pump itself. I built the harness and fuel line system on mine.

I would just put the raptor on its own relay triggered harness that is signaled by the original pump harness. Takes the load off the ECM and stock harness in case of any issues. As for testing the pump ground, I would just ohm test between the pump and a good ground somewhere. That should tell you if there is any resistance between the pump and ground on the truck.

Most of the time white smoke at startup is a sign of failing injectors. I had one completely stuck open at one point and it would smoke white for a few blocks after start up in the morning. I think the hard start problems usually related to the VP will happen when the engine is warm, not cold. The white smoke is usually just unburned fuel getting evaporated going out the tail pipe. Usually caused by a leaking injector dumping raw fuel into the cylinder.

Wow... I had no idea!! I kind of want to find one now too. I really wish they had left the option for the 5 speed manual but I guess you win some and lose some.

I had no idea they offered a diesel in the liberty!! That seems like it would be a handy little rig. What kind of mileage are they getting? I am assuming they are turboed, right?

Now that I re read everything, it seems that you are having some serious pressure issues inside the tranny. We should probably determine if it is an internal transmission problem (valvebody, pump, solenoid, etc.) or if the trans is getting wrong electrical signals sent to it to do these things. It sounds like everything is working on the electrical side apart from a possible PCM. The PCM could be causing incorrect voltage signals or no signals at all. Would a faulty PCM be causing the pressure issues inside the tranny? I am not sure. Honestly, I would be having that PCM tested. That at least would rule it out as a possibility. If it is good, we have some bigger issues to look at.