Ilikeoldfords

Boy you just have had no good luck with tires!! If the tire with a nail in it was patched correctly, They should have used a plug and patch set up. The patch should have been rated for radial tire use and not just a standard tube patch. Also, tire shops really need to watch what glue they are using when they do the patches. There is a different glue that should be used depending on what patch is used. The only reason I know these things is I am a major distributor for Rema Tip Top products here in the northwest. They make probably the best quality tire repair supplies in the industry as far as I am concerned. More times than not that I have seen, the shop is not doing the repair correctly. Sometimes it is the quality of materials used but most of the time its the work being done that is the issue.

With all the testing you have done, it would seem like the only thing it could be is a PCM problem. Do you know anyone with a similar truck that you could swap PCM's with? That way you could rule out that anyway.

It will depend on if you build a class 3 hitch or a class 5 hitch. And it also depends on if you plan on doing weight distribution or not. If you really want to tow heavy you might need to step up and build a class 5 hitch that is a 2.5in receiver vs. a regular 2in. That will get you a lot more weight capacity. The other thing that will change your weight capacity is how the receiver hitch will be mounted under the truck. There are a lot of variables to consider if you want to tow a lot of weight safely. There is a company that I know of that is kind of king in this department called Torklift. They are very spendy but you might get some ideas on how to build yours.

Yep. There should be a plastic bushing where the clutch master cylinder rod connects to the pedal and another one way up on top where the clutch pedal actually hangs from the main pedal assembly. If you do the one up top, might was well do the bushings for the brake pedal as well. I think it is one big rod that goes through to hang both pedals.

Whenever I get new tires put on, I will always request new valve stems for this reason. They are just rubber like anything else and do get old and worn out. I have seen more tire problems that are valve stem related than anything else I think.

Will the clutch build any pressure if you pump the pedal? Did you do anything with the clutch hydraulic system when the tranny was out? If not, there is probably something not right with the clutch parts in the bell housing.

Oh I know for sure it wouldnt work on the 2nd gens. We need at least 10 psi minimum. 15-20psi is ideal so I would need to put 4 of these in series it would appear. I just wasnt sure if they would flow enough for the 3rd gens either. 4 psi really isnt much at all.

I know that the 3rd gen lift pumps are measured by volume/flow vs pressure but each of those pumps only giving 4 psi, makes me wonder. Is that enough pressure? I dont know what kind of pressure the cp3 needs to be seeing I guess.

Indeed!! I really like that color too. I do have to say, I really dont mind the newer dodge cars compared to some of the other car manufacturers as of late. All the newer dodges look pretty nice I think.

I have also heard of a lot more GM's having an issue with the winch/cable than the dodges. Like Mike said earlier, as long as the tire is hanging under there correctly it shouldnt move at all. I think the if is able to move or swing around at all, that is probably what is causing issues with the cable. Just like anything else thats metal, if it keeps flexing, it will eventually break. All this said, At least once a year I will string that cable out all the way and actually coat it with some wheel bearing grease, then roll it in and out a few times. This keeps the cable rust free and the winch nice and lubed up. Two birds with one stone I would say.

So anyone have any thoughts on why the pressure bobs like that? I wonder if it is a fuel pump issue? Or a gauge issue? Mine is plumbed direct to the gauge in the cab. The only thing that I have other than the open line is a needle valve. On a side note, since my pressure has started bobbing like this I have also noticed that the raptor pump has also gotten a lot nosier. It used to be almost silent, but now it sounds like there arent any bearings left in it or something.

^^^^^^^^^^ This!! I was also thinking that there might be a connection problem with the MAP sensor. I left mine unplugged one time and it would get up to about 30 mph and thats it. Wouldnt build any boost. I thought it was a turbo/boost issue but it wasnt. The computer didnt see any boost and wouldnt give any fuel.

I think it would be a good idea too. The only thing I would be concerned about is it being used to bash on shops/businesses. There would definitely have to be good and bad thoughts going on.

I woke up here in Missoula this morning and it was 27*F. I am ready for snow but I could do without the extreme cold again. -50* was just a little to cold last year up in ND.

Sounds like quite the project!! I just hope I don't run into this kind of stuff when I go to rebuild my HX35. Seems like the 35 is a very simple turbo, all things considered though.

They are a type of threaded fitting. It is very commonly found in hydraulic systems and other pressurized fluid set ups. Here is a pic of a male-to-male JIC adapter.

That video is exactly what mine does too. Almost the exact same motion. Mine has also been doing it more often the older it gets. I just don't know if it is a sign that the pump is going under or not. As for the draw straw, I though that most of the problems people were having were because of them being installed incorrectly. Either not cutting the bottom correctly or cutting it to short. If it installed correctly you should be able to run the tank dry with a straw. I myself am getting ready to put in a tank sump from beans diesel. Really nice product but a little spendy for what it is IMHO.

If there is any situation where the batteries drop below 9 volts, it will cause this code to be set off. I learned this last winter after dealing with the extreme cold in ND. This could be either the batteries being dead or an extra amp draw problem.

I am kind of surprised that the airbags didnt go off with a hit like that. You must really have to hit these trucks hard to set them things off. As for the truck not starting, does it at least crank over? What condition are the batteries in? Do you happen to know your fuel pressure? I am just trying to think of the things I would start checking if it were my truck. Checking the error codes is a great idea too. If something shorted out or whatever it should show up as an error code.

Aren't moose pretty uncommon to see in ND? I remember people up in Grand Forks saying that its a once in a lifetime thing to see either elk or moose in ND. Maybe they were just pulling my leg?

22k horsepower isn't something to mess around with. Worlds largest diesel engine starting up

That's a lot of truck loads!! Holy cow they must have worked non stop like all year to make that much money.

Someone gave me a good idea for the clutch switch. I think it might have been MnTom. Anyway, the idea was to use it as a security device. Instead of using the switch on the master cylinder, just use a regular toggle switch. Mount it under the dash someplace so you cant see it easily. Whenever you park the truck just flip that switch off, now the truck cant be started at all. Makes it really hard for it to be stolen that way, or in my world, makes it really hard for your friends to mess with you!!

Yep. Donaldson is pretty much top of the line when it comes to filters anymore. I use Donaldson, Baldwin, or Fleetgaurd. Whatever is cheapest at the time.

I keep mine on 4x4 all the time. Seems that's where I make the best mileage towing or not. I also have the hot unlock on mine though.