Ilikeoldfords

Some pictures would help us figure out if they are supposed to be there or not, just to be sure. That would be the best way to know.

I agree with John. I know of a ton of fuel pumps that will shut off right at or right before $100. I have no idea why that happens because if you are filling a diesel pickup or motorhome or whatever, it will take at least that much. On a side note, I have heard of some dirtymaxs making close to what the cummins makes for mileage. I have never heard of one making any kind of mileage fully loaded like that though. Maybe he stopped at filled up somewhere throughout the day beforehand? Or where you guys running together pretty much all day?

It would be kind of nice to have a permanently attached drain hose but I think you would still run into the same issues of sanitation as you would normally. You still have to pull the hose out to drain the tanks, then you still have to put it back into the compartment. I don't really see all that much benefit in changing the set up, IMHO.

I feel like the 3 way suction valve will make it easiest to use both tanks and the gas can. Lifting those bigger gas cans when full isnt the easiest thing to do without getting gas all over the place...

I don't ever mix products but I will use the Howes in the winter time. Back in ND I would also run #1 diesel fuel instead of the #2. I had #2 gel on me a couple times and it is the worst. I liked the howes because it is still a petroleum product where the others like power service uses alcohol for the anti gel. That alcohol I feel cant be good for the VP or the injectors. The rest of the year I just run a quart of 2 stroke oil every other tank of fuel.

My raptor was very quiet until about 2-3k miles ago. Now it is even louder than my old fass was. Still holding pressure but it almost sounds like I lost a bearing out of it or something. Its starting to make me nervous. I am going to start looking into maybe getting a fass titanium or something like that. I would love a mechanical pump but the cost is a little more than I can go for.

Personally I love my tow mirrors. My uncle has the factory non-tow mirrors and I always feel blind when I drive his truck. Just my personal opinion though. I do know that if you do take off the factory tow mirrors you wouldn't have a problem getting rid of them though. Everyone is trying to buy those. On a side note, I don't know how much different the non-tow mirrors would be compared to the tow mirrors when they are flipped down. Seems like you would get about the same view.

I was thinking about making an outerwear from an old tee shirt. I mean it is cotton and would catch all the bigger crap before going into the filter. What are the real outerwears made out of anyway?

The only reason I really switched to the synthetic was because the dino oil wouldn't flow in -60 degree weather up in North Dakota. It would literally take more than 5 minutes to build 40 psi on my mechanical gauge. I think I will be switching back to dino oil now that I live in Missoula and wont have to deal with much under 0 for the most part.

Can you pull codes on a 3rd gen with the key trick? I thought that was just a 2nd gen thing.

I switched from Delo 400 15w40 about 15k ago to the mobil one full synthetic 5w40 Turbo Diesel oil. It wasn't using to much oil when I first changed it but started using oil about 7-8k miles ago. I was going to change it about every 15k anyway so should I go back to the dino oil and see what happens? This mob 1 is getting expensive using a quart every 500 miles...

The NV5600 is indeed the 6 speed. The NV4500 would be the 5 speed.

Man, if I had the extra cash laying around I would be all over picking this thing up from ya. Would the HE351 work ok with 40hp injectors? Or would it work better with a little bigger like 60-75's? My old HX35 is getting the miles on it and I am starting to see a little shaft play. I will probably just put a kit in it but I really wish I had a little more air.

I see what you mean. I don't mind the clean up and paint work either but my brother works in a body shop. They have some pretty mean welders and would let me borrow one to do it. Does buckstop make the do it yourselfers?

I am also curious about this VP blower. Does it help a ton?

What is a good source for one of the weld it yourself bumpers? Living in western Montana now, I would really like the extra protection for my truck. I just don't have the $1000 for a nice bumper.

With the 35's your EGT's sound about right to me. When I cruise at 70 my EGT's run about 650 but getting on the freeway they can get up to about 900-1000. I also have a manual vs. the auto tranny with might make the difference though. I think if you had a boost leak you would be seeing more smoke and higher EGT's.

This makes sense. I was just concerned because it only recently started doing this.

Ok guys. Over the last few months I have noticed that I am going through more and more oil than I usually was. At the moment, I am going through about a quart every 500-800 miles. I just did another 1200 mile weekend and it used almost 2 quarts. I have checked for blowby with the engine hot and cold and there is hardly ever a puff. I am not leaving any oil on the ground when I park either. I do have the crankcase breather mod and never lose any oil out of it unless it happens when I am driving down the road, but then you would think it would leak on the ground. My turbo has never been opened up and its up to about 230k miles. Could I be losing that much oil through the turbo? It does haze a little bit of blue right after a cold start up but you really cant tell unless the sun is at the right angle. Any ideas? Thanks everyone!!!

Pull them out and run them down to a diesel shop or injection shop. They will be able to test them for ya or point you in the right direction at least.

My raptor is about a year and a half old now. Seems like I only have to reset the pressure whenever it gets cold for the winter. Other than that it stays rock solid. I have developed another issue with it though. Whenever I hit any bumps going down the road, the pressure will drop about 5 psi for a second then come right back up. Doesn't matter if I am coasting, pulling a hill, turning right or left, nothing other than hitting a bump or dip in the road. Anyone else have similar issues? Other than this the pressure stays real solid. This just started happening about a few months ago. I think I am going to have someone sitting in the cab watching the gauge and I will crawl around underneath moving the lines and stuff around to see if I can recreate the pressure drop. Maybe something is coming loose somewhere....

It is working out great!! I love having the stock clutch feel but able to hold the power still. It is still very grabby though. You really cant slip it at all without the whole truck shaking with it. Still having a transmission noise problem though. It only makes noise when the transmission is turning. As soon as you push in the clutch the noise stops. Must be a bearing somewhere.... Seems to get louder while in 4th-6th gears going down the road.

If it is a NV5600 then you have to use the full synthetic 5w30 synchromesh. Most manuals can just take gear oil or whatever but because of the synchros in the NV5600's they require the special stuff. I think the refill is about 7 quarts but I am not sure on that.

Well check this article out. It says that the EPA considers anything that changes the runability of the engine including just changing the timing (high idle switch) is illegal. Read for yourselves.... http://powernationtv.com/post/epa-says-rolling-coal-is-illegal

Are there shift detents in these transmissions? I rebuilt a 5 speed out of a neon that had bad shift detents and it would jump out of gear all the time too. Just a spring loaded ball that the shift forks kind of lock into when you shift into gear. If that spring wears out or breaks it wont help hold the shift fork in place.