Ilikeoldfords

That would make sense to me. Even if you know your alternator is good and clean, there is never any telling when it will go bad. If you don't check it daily you are running the risk of damaging the other components. It would make sense to have that extra layer of protection in place and still check your alternator every once in a while.

Got me a new toy! This bad boy has been in storage at my inlaws for years. They bought it new, used it a few times, and then it sat. Everything looks brand new. 10ft model Front king sized bed, rear queen Real fridge (DC, AC, Gas) Gas furnace Dinette and couch area (both also fold down into beds) 20 Gal fresh water tank and sink (No hot water) 2 burner stove can be used inside and outside Electric lift option for pop-up

Could the transistors be getting cooked because of things like high AC voltage from the alternator? I am not sure how the current flows through the PSG but that might explain why Mike's is outlasting a lot of others. He keeps good track of the AC voltage, not to mention everything else.

What other mods have you done to the truck apart from the injectors? We need to know what all you have so we can help figure this out. Any programmers? What is your fuel pressure looking like? That might help determine the health of the VP44.

I would love to volunteer but my truck isn't ideal at the moment. I am still working on my oil consumption issue. Adding a quart every 500-800 miles or so wouldn't make for good test results.

What would be really cool would be to see this same test done without the bypass. Would the oil stay good for as long? Maybe just change out the stock filter every 15-20k?

Now that I live in the northern rocky mtn's here in MT, my truck is getting a bumper as soon as I can afford one. I will probably at least get a grill guard for the wifes explorer as well. Just makes sense if you can save that money and especially time on your vehicle. Even if insurance would cover all of the costs, you still don't have a car for whatever amount of time it takes for repairs.

Right off of Chip's diagnostic page: If the engine won’t start, AND YOU HAVEN’T OPENED ANY FUEL LINES OR REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER SINCE IT LAST RAN, and you have either or both a 1688 or 1689 code, the truck will never start until you replace the injection pump, 99% of the time. If you want to be 100% sure of your diagnosis, follow the No Start diagnosis below. These codes indicate either a serious internal mechanical failure, such as a seized rotor, or that the computer on the top of the Injection Pump is not communicating with the ECM, thereby turning on the high pressure fuel to the injectors.

As for injectors, anything up to about a 75hp will run good with a stock turbo. You might have to watch the EGT's a bit more but it wont be bad. I would personally stick with a 40-50hp sticks. Good power and mileage too. As for the VP, I read something somewhere (maybe on bluechip's site) that the early rebuild VP's and also the stock VP's had a slight problem with the rotors being machined incorrectly. There were some problems with them seizing up or just not turning smoothly. The newer rebuilds seemed to have fixed this problem. I will try to find where I read that...

Hey family, Check out this neat mesh of trucks. It isn't really a swap!!! http://www.truckinweb.com/features/1407_cummins_powered_1966_gmc_camper_truck/?sm_id=social29589546

Correct me if I am wrong but the ideal ratio between boost and back pressure is 1:1, right?

I am not sure on the specific resistances but if the tank is full, there should be little resistance. The farther down the level in the tank goes, the more resistance you should get. At least, this is how most senders work. I haven't ever actually gotten to play around with the senders in these tanks.

If the wires did short out somewhere, wouldn't it have blown the fuse? Seems a little odd to me that it could have gotten hot enough to melt the wires off. Unless there was too big of a fuse used....

One of yours? If so, I cant wait to hear about!

Oh man!! I have already bought their albums and stuff online. They are quite something!!! I believe they started out by opening for Elton John at one point.

I would still think that the sending unit is bad. If you are getting a perfect 0 ohm when you tested it, it tells me that there is a short somewhere inside. There should be SOME resistance in the sending unit. That is how they work after all. Power comes in, goes through basically a variable resister (hooked to the float inside the tank), comes back out, and heads to ground. A perfect 0 ohm tells me there is a short to ground somewhere in the sending unit.

Does the turbo control the variable vanes itself? Or is that what you need the stand alone controller for? Sorry for all the questions. Just realized I don't really know anything about the newer turbos.

Apart from the built in exhaust brake, what are the differences between the CW and VE?

What size injectors were you running with this turbo? I am debating doing a swap pretty soon as my hx35 is in need of a rebuild. Might as well upgrade, right? I just don't know if my 40hp injectors would do it. Maybe with the comp turned up??

It's not a big deal, but you might consider doing the rear main crank seal. It is a pretty easy seal to change and doesn't require disassembly of anything to get to it. While you are that far in, might be a good thing to do.

We have been hanging in the high 80's low 90's in Missoula here. Pretty normal for late July early august. We expect it to cool down in a couple weeks though. For those who don't know, Missoula is at about 3200 ft above sea level so I am sitting even higher than mike. We never see anything above 95 in the day time and almost always cool down to about 55 at night. I totally agree with John on the AC in the house. I can live without it in the truck but I gotta be cool to sleep at all.

What was it made out of? Just curious about possibly making my own at some point.

So apart from having good Ubolts again, did you notice a big difference with the traction bars added? I thought those were only for the guys that are pushing lots of torque?

Can you have a PCM reflashed at the dealer? I don't know if that would bring it back around or not though. I wonder if some noise off that alternator took out the PCM? I don't think they usually fail.

So you are telling me that this whole time, its been my bank that is limiting me on the pump?? I thought it was the gas stations!!