guesswho512

how old is that vp44?

it should work if it can do:can bus j1939 protocoland i think that is why my local autozone's reader didn't get codes for me... i don't think it does the can bus

that is a trick i never knew...i had never touched those clamps until i put those batteries in...some times you inherit someone else's mess. but then i'm still shaking the motto: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". preventative maintenance is a much better motto. the negative in that pic is loose enough to wiggle off the post...and i can't get it much tighter because i can't get a good bite on the nut.

those style clamps are what i used on my ranger and honda.... but the "pit" where the wire fits looks like it is to small. i think my cable on the dodge might be 0gauge or even 00....i guess i need to do some shopping has anyone ever take those factory terminal clamps off the wire? it looks like the wire is pressed into the clamp. the negative on my drivers side is so jacked it won't get tight around the post http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=457

i have done the uppers and lowers on my 99 2wd...basically there is a snap ring that you take off the joint. then use a ball joint press(o'reily has a loner-tool,but deposit was ~100)it is a monster C-clamp that uses different size cups and drivers to press the joint out and in. the one i borrowed was missing cups...i made some out of pipe i had laying around. i didn't even remove the control arms. it was about a 3-4 hour job in the driveway piddling on a saturday.

the movie...back to the future!! watch out mcfly! any way...isx, what gauge wire did you use to wire up the extra batteries? what kind terminal clams did you use? i am about to change the factory clamps...but the wire is so thick, im not sure i can find clamps to except it....just looking to see what others have done

i agree 100%...everyone one blames the oil. if every hi-proformace car/truck has a logo on it....then everyone wants one

i believe you are suppose to post questions like this in another area. ahh yes: Vendors & Dealers Place to ask the vendors and dealers for a price quote.

yea, but think of all the unpassable areas! i think i remember something about a highway to alaska that construction was at a stand still because of snow/ice/permafrost. for some reason it seems like i watched history channel about that...or maybe it was a dream? any ways, couldn't a trailer on skis be pulled by that beast?

is the CCD the same thing as CAN bus? does the obd2 access the CCD?

ohh a little back story is in order... i had drove that truck hours earlier and because of a lot of snow fall they have been putting sand and salt down...but the other half of the front was pretty. i "washed" it clean from some monster puddles...notice though where the only puddle is... i know there are dozens of things...but want to know a direction to start. thanksother than the air dog, it is completely stock. no gauges yet. i have an "edge boost elbow" but i was towing one time and learned really fast what happens when you can't fool boost! so i took it off(this was this last spring)

ohh....i was looking at my wife car:cool:...

i have read about people having trouble finding replacement seals/heater element for the heater electrical...is mine similar enough to use another year models seal/heater element? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/826-OEM-fuel-heater-element-for-2000-2002-fuel-filter-cannisters

it think he meant this: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm

so at first i thought it was a leak! i have never had blow-by this bad EVER! so while i was snapping pics for the fuel/water sep i noticed this vac line...take a look at the pics...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/album.php?albumid=34 opinions please bryan

sorry for the delay...couldn't find my camera http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=448 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=447

thats awesome!!! thanks

does anyone know what parameters the ecm/pcm use to post a "pressure" on the factory gauge?

i've read about this in other forums...most people agree that a diaphram inside the pump is ruptured. this is usually caused by running low fuel pressure to the VP44i believe there is suppose to be a delay, or something when you turn the key...err i'm not wording this right.alot of people get by with a delay. but high pressures(above 20) usually have people getting hard to start situations. if the diafram is ruptured than most i have read crank at 7-8psi then run 15psi

so it is for a 4x4! makes sense...i don't have blocks under my 2wd leafs

see...if i stick around long enough....i learn somethin!

having changed a bunch of chevy fuel pumps...i didn't think it was that bad(that is dropping the tank). my truck is NOT 4x4 and not lifted. i didn't even jack her up until the tank was on the ground. doing the airdog install took ~45 minutes until we were ready to bleed(i did have a buddy's help, he was dieing to know why i spent so much on a fuel pump). that includes drilling a new hole in the tank for the 1/2" draw straw. you are going to be on your back either way...unless you have access to a lift.Dan...why are you changing your hanger bearing(i assume that is the hanger in the center of the 2 rear shafts?)? how do you come to realize they were bad?

i have a 99...i'll snap so pics...i'm still trying to figure out this fuel heater thing...if you can't buy parts to fix these thing than maybe some year models are interchangeable?

i think that the autos are 215hp and the standard trans were 235hp, unless it was sixspeed

1999 dodge ram 2500 5.9 CTD:whistle:i felt left out:thumbsup: