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My truck started acting up recently. While driving it will stall or die. I have 19 psi fuel pressure, the fuel filter is new, no codes. It starts fine and idles fine, but once I'm driving it will stall out for just a second and come back or completely die. If it dies, then it won't start again for anywhere from hours to days. Any help is appreciated. 99 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9l diesel Here is a video of 6 times it stalled today. https://youtu.be/jkYmQii0C4c

I have an 02 2500 6 SPD manual tranny. Bone stock except cold air intake. Recently truck seems to be losing fuel prime and I can find nowhere it is going. Truck sits overnight and fuel filter housing will be empty causing very hard start problems. When I do get it started seems to idle fine. When I drive it sounds like turbo is not coming in until upper rpm range. Truck will barely pull itself up even the smallest of hills. Lift pump is new (one mounted on engine) and seems to be working fine fills filter housing in under 10 seconds. No DTC codes. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2002 Dodge 2500 w/ approx 135000 mi. the injection pump was replaced by a dealer when the truck had 98000 mi. The truck sat idle for about three weeks and when I went to start it the batts were very weak, turned over twice and went dead. I charged the batts, cleaned the terminals, but the engine would just spin. The lift pump is working, and there is fuel in the tank. I also changed the fuel filter and drained the water separator. Still, no start! Help!!!

First time posting. Just got a 2000 2500 2wd to tow a tiny house. Decided to get a Fuel Boss and hopefully not worry about fuel supply issues and trashing a VP44. The thing is bone stock (as far as I can tell) without gauges (I know I need to get them). I checked the engine bay and there is definitely a carter lift pump behind and below the stock fuel filter. It's plugged in to the harness and the fuel like is hooked up to the filter, but I haven't bumped the starter to see if it runs. I ordered a fuel boss thinking the install would be straightforward with the stock lift pump. Then I checked the tank. It really looks like it has an in tank pump: 4 wire harness, inlet, outlet, and vent. What the heck?!?!? Is it possible to have an in tank and stock pump? Isn't that too much current for the ECM? Is it possible to suction fuel through the in-tank pump to the fuel boss? Do I have to put in a draw straw? Saw this video: Fuel tank module upgrade from Throroughbred and they showed how to just cut out the in-tank pump and add an extension to the stock straw instead of installing an aftermarket straw. Any reason that wouldn't work? I'm not looking to add HP or anything, I just want a reliable fuel delivery system. Thanks, Justin

Okay I've got something going on with my truck and I'm in need of ideas. My truck sounds different (more tinney rattle) in the top end, less power, less boost higher EGT's. I pulled the valve cover off and re-torqued everything. I was worried something vibrated loose. Everything was tight. I did start the truck while the valve cover was off, and I could hear what was I think was the injectors. Not sure what they are suppose to sound like? I haven't changed a thing with any settings in the Quad tuning. I'm running the edge tune, (I can post them if anyone wants to look them over). Only thing that I found was the set screw on the boost elbow backed out and was gone. I replaced it (screwed all the in) built a "boost tester" pressurized the system, zero boost leaks. I'll add the data logs, the one in green is from January, red one is from yesterday. Today I adjusted the valves ( they were a little loose), while running the truck after the valve lash adjustment I noticed the fuel pressure was running between 12-13 psi at idle. I put a mechanical gauge on it and I've got a crazy surging going on. It will stay at 12ish - psi for a second or two, then surge up to 22ish, then drop back to 12ish again(I'll try and add a short video). I did the bucket test on the fass 150 everything is flowing great no surge, Next, I put everything back except pulled the fuel line off the vp44 and ran it into the fuel tank via main fill hose (used the key bump flowed great). Last, I powered the pump with a constant power source independent of the trucks electrical system flowed great no surge. What I need ideals with is I think I have possible two problems aggravating each other. First is the loss of power, boost with higher EGT. I'm not sure on this one bc I haven't changed anything with the power out put in my tune. Just showed up along with the change in engine sound... Re-recap: boost test= no leaks, replaced the boost elbow set screw(I found it missing), adjusted valves, no blow by, waste gate functioning normal with compressed air test. Second is the fuel surging issue... It only seems to surge when the fuel lines are hooked up to the vp44. I'm wondering if there is a fuel return regulator or valve that's malfunctioning ? Re-cap: Fass 150 bucket test= no surge, in-tank pick up used to feed the fass 150 and pressure line flowing into tank fill = no surge, out side power source = no surge, all the lines back in the places they came from(pick-up, pressure, return) truck running with out side power source= surge, same as test before truck power source= surge Video file is to big, it won't let me upload it. I can email it to anyone that wants to take a look. Thanks guys any input or ideas will help!!

Hello I’m wondering if you can help me out. I have a 2002 Dodge Cummins 24V. Cold start issue. I checked fuel pressure going into injection pump and I'm at 16psi. Wide open throttle it drops to 11psi. So all good there right. What the issue is at -10 celcius it won't start but if I plug in and leave over night it starts no problem. My intake heater is working as the intake elbow is really warm. So it's a cold thing. When I tried starting at -10c without being plugged in I cracked fuel lines at injectors and no fuel would come out. But... next day when I plugged in she started right up no issues. Seems like when the eng block is warm it seems to hold prime but when it's cold it doesn't. I read somewhere that possible low oil pressure could prevent the injection pump from sending fuel to injectors. Any ideas?

I just had to replace #5 injector line due to it breaking of at the head. Something that surprised me is that it would appear that the injector line appears to to be double walled with a very small line inside of the outer line separated by what appears to be nylon. I don't know that be an absolute fact but this is what I see from the damaged parts. Here is a pic of the knob that broke off at the head. I have not been able to cut the old line open to see. Is the entire line of this same construction? If so that would explain why I could not fold the line over to crimp it off. I will cut the old line open tomorrow and see what is there.

I NEED HELP TRUCK RUNS OUT OF FUEL AND I SHUT KEY OFF AND LET LIFT PUMP FILL FILTER AND IT WILL RUN FINE FOR A MIN OR SO THEN DO THE SAME THING REPLACED FILTER AND HAS A AIR DOG RAFTER LIFT PUMP THAT IS NOT AS LOUD AS I REMEMBER IT BEING. I'M STUCK AT WALMART PARKING LOT TILL I FIGURE OUT DON'T HAVE MUCH MONEY TO TRY THINGS LIKE NEW LIFT PUMP IF THAT'S NOT IT I PUT THAT ONE ON A LITTLE OVER A YEAR AGO. ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKS

My truck is a 2001. I have an older AirDog, and an ISSPRO electric fuel gauge. The issue I'm having is that when I first bump the ignition I get about 15-16psi of fuel pressure. Then running, or even if you let the pump shut off and then rebump the ignition, the fuel pressure goes up to 26psi. I really need to get my test gauge on it, but two different sending units and gauges have been put on it, and both read the same. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas of what I should check? Is it the AirDog, that's marked as being regulated at 15 psi, did I screw up with how I installed the gauge? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, the AirDog was on before I pressure gauge was (I know shame on me....), so I do not know if this is a recent change or has always done it.

So I finally got around to installing the 103lb springs and pushrods which went well started truck with no problems and runs well. But after sitting over night had to turn over quite a bit to get it to fire off. I think I must have a leak somewhere between vp and injectors but I can't see one. I used all new o-rings from DAP and new copper washers I was a little hesitant about the washers though b/c new ones were 1.5mm and old were 2 mm but guys at DAP said it should be fine. Any ideas where to start?

Discovered black particles/flakes in my fuel tank. I assume this is from BIO fuel. Wiped what I could reach out of tank as well as residual diesel. Would like to wash it out in effort to reach crevices etc. Any suggestion on a cleaner I might use? Thanks. Leaky

Hi all, first post on a forum so don’t tear me up to bad. I have a deleted 2012. I am due for a fuel filter change. I have the fuel filter in the engine compartment on order and will be installing next week. While I’m working on the fuel system I was wondering about installing a lift pump for more fuel delivery and better fuel filter and water separator options. I was hoping to do CAT filters but I’m having a hard time finding kits for 4th gens.

I've owned my Dodge for over 4 years now, and have upgraded the lift pump, which is the raptor 100 gph on the side of the block, edge ez, 4 inch exhaust, and I believe it has at least 60hp injectors that were installed by the previous owner. I am at 400 rwhp now, tested at the hunting for horse power up in cda. My question that I am asking, why is my fuel pressure dropping down 5psi at WOT? I have spent many hours trying to find information on this, and its hard to get a definite answer. the Diesel mechanic I take my truck to says its normal, but I know its not, especially since my truck will start to stutter if I let off the pedal after stomping into it for to long( by no means do I drive the truck aggressive, I drive it like an old man, like my old man lol) I want to upgrade my fuel lines to half inch from the tank to the lift pump, including fittings. but when I look online, I'm only finding the big line kit from the filter to the injection pump. Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm not looking to start a proper fuel psi forum, as I know its been beat to death. 15 psi at idle, 5 psi at WOT- doesn't seem normal. I'm on my second raptor 100gph -----this is my first post, let me know if I'm doing anything wrong.

got a airdog original pump on the truck right now and been looking at the Fuel Boss Mechanical Lift Pump System. I was wondering if anyone has had put one on yet? I want to use the airdog filter setup up on it, if it is possible or do I need to buy a different filter set up for it? Would really like it better then the airdog because im sick of messing around with the airdog and would like to have something that is really reliable. If anyone knows someone I can talk to on making the fuel boss work with the airdog filter setup that would be awesome thanks guys.

I recently bought a 24v and am trying to keep up with maintenance as well as possible. so i drained the water from my fuel filter and obviously lost three prime there was no solution in the manual or th parts and troubleshooting as to how to prime the motor. i tried to turn the key to the on position several times before cranking to see if it would self prime but it only continued to crank. i searched google and forums for the answer but could only find the solution of self priming. this did work for me however it took many many tries and almost an hour for my truck to start i know that the ignition process of diesel motors can cause a significant wear and tear. is there any other solution or a way to manually prime the truck so i can continue routine maintenance without the hassle

I need some help. I run a 2001 3500 2w drive dually 5 sp pulling a 40 gn trailer. Starting friday afternoon, my truck would get sudden power loses, usually in 5th gear. It will surge several times then resume operating normally. I might drive several hundred miles then out of the blue it will start surging again. I depress the clutch to see if it dies but it just goes to idle. When it's running right there is no problem, no lose of power and no misses. This is what I have done to it since march, I've put in a new lift pump, we have some wiring issues to the lift pump which was corrected and the block pump is completely out of the picture. The lift pump is an in tank model. I checked the lift pump on Saturday and it's putting out 15psi at idle and 13psi at 2000rpm. The only code I get is a 1593 but when I put my odbII reader on it it shows no codes. I have replaced the TPS couple of months ago, I got new bosch 40 horse injectors with new fuel tubes. I would say that there may be a short in the electrical to the pump but it would die when I clutched it but it doesn't just goes to idle with no misses, normal rpm. I am wondering if the lift pump is going bad and is slowing down causing the pressure to drop, the engine can idle on lower fuel pressure but not run higher. I'm at a lose, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Just got Draw Straw 5 from Vulcan to help with 1/4 tank sucking air problem. I got an upgraded in tank fuel pump module. This kit replaces in tank pump with clip in aluminum fitting and flex hose to top of sending unit. Then it says to replenish fuel back to module I need to use factory outlet (that's not used anyway) as return a quick connect that is 3/8 and new fitting is 3/8 to 1/2 barb. Before I did this my return was going to filler neck. So now that I got it all plumed according to instructions my fuel pressure went up to 22 where before it was 19. The only thing I can think of is restriction in return going from air dog to module, the actual hole in module is just over 1/4 where before it was just dumping it in filler neck with no restriction. Anybody had this problem ? and what did you ended up doing? If I return fuel to filler neck it will defeat the purpose of doing this kit, as Air Dog will suck module dry. While doing this I found return line from vp and injectors kinked off, just 8" down from quick connect on module. It was bent to about 45 degree angle. previous owner must off took fuel tank out to put in draw straw that came with air dog and when putting tank in pinched off return line. So I don't think there was much fuel if any returning for a while now. What problems would this cause? Any opinion is appreciated. Also does anybody upsize return lines and fittings from vp and injectors?

This morning it was -9deg Fahrenheit and I believe it got down below -16 last night. I don't have any fuel additive in my truck as I only run 2 stroke oil. I was able to get the fuel inside the filter warm enough to get me to school with 10 psi of fuel pressure . After some classes I went and bought some diesel 911, and poured a little more than the suggested amount into the tank. The fuel pressure returned to normal as expected. Will having the 2 stroke and diesel 911 in the tank together hurt anything?? Is there a different additive I should use during the winter instead of 2 stroke? Or should combine 2 stroke with something else during the winter? I know plugging it in would be best, but living on the 3rd floor of an apartment makes that option impossible. Thanks in advance!

In short, yes. Though we will not have devastating results from not using it like the next generation cummins, it does help the lift pump and all parts of the fuel system. I noticed a ticking in my lift pump one day, dumped in some 2-stroke and it fixed it right up. Another thing I noticed was it does not smoke as much in the morning with the 2-stroke. Having the timing up, the beast hates the cold and smokes like a freight train until the EGT's are over 400, but the other day, I started it and couple minutes later went back over and said uhhh, wheres the smoke! All I saw was a blue haze instead of a white cloud. I am not exactly sure how 2-stroke can have such an impact on smoke with a cold engine but the results were obvious. I also believe it helps with MPG, the added power is enough to keep you off the pedal just a little bit more keeping you over 20 as long as you are under 75mph.

this happened to me 3 times yesterday coming home. i stopped and bought a drink. when pulling back on the four lane i hammered it and it took off. hit 20#s of boost, 800* egt and and it would hardly go any further. egt was moving up and down 500* fluidly not jerky. let off the throttle, slowed and hit again. same thing only went a little faster and higher on the gauges. did it a few more times and after 1 or 1 1/2 mile it was working just fine. the second time i stopped for fuel and it was doing it again only this time i noticed my ect gauge was only reading 150*. bought my fuel and looked under the hood. saw nothing out of the ordinary. upper radiator hose felt very normal. i could not hold my hand on it very long. took off from there and the same thing. took about a mile and a half to start working normal again. got better as the temp rose. the third was pretty much a repeat of the second. it was like the engine was defueling for some reason. other than those times everything was normal. any thoughts. i could pull no codes with the key. my fuel pressure gauge is broken and i could not tell whether it was fluctuating or not.

99 Dodge 24 valve. Had the lift pump changed to teh tank about 5 years ago. Threw a Injection pump code and intermittant flat pedal and put in a new injection pump just before Christmas...HoHoHo. The code returned along with the flat pedal and the shop says my fuel is antifreeze green and my level is down in the radiator. Apparently the fuel return goes throguh the head and there it is picking up antifreeze? I have had this truck 7 years, bought it used. I am meticulous about watching the temp, and have never over heated it, and do not over rev it. Now I apparently need a new head? Only 125,000 miles. Ever hear of such a thing? Any options out there? Color me frustrated/disappointed, and broke.

Can the main computer shut down the Bosch VP44 if there is a cooling problem or temp sensor error? I have been having cooling problems on hot days and under load. After flushing radiator, the engine ran normally for 5 minutes down the freeway and then suddenly stopped and wouldn't start. (as if it ran out of fuel) . Fuel pressure from lift pump is OK. Fuel to the injection pump inlet OK but nothing at the injectors. There was no missing, no smoke, no roughness, good 23 mpg, just before shutdown. Coolant temp was normal. It seems odd that the VP44 would fail after I was working on the coolant system. Is there an internal fuel shutoff solenoid inside the VP44? Any insight would be appreciated!

Ok Gang... You all have seen the Dodge FSM book minimum pressure of 10 PSI. Well I started to do some thinging and relized even that is too low. Here lets take a look at a pic here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=878 So now let assume your fuel pressure average is about 12 PSI which is above the 10 PSI minimum pressure. Driving down the highway at 55-65 MPH your going to be flowing at least 2-3 GPH through the pump. But now let add a twist to it. New situation... Going up to Seven Devils Campground its a 17 mile drive up a 1 lane dirt road that is steep. I'm dragging a utility trailer with 2 ATV's. Ok for the sake of the post we'll say the fuel pressure is still 12 PSI. Climbing that grade I'm going to be flowing 7-10 GPH through that pump which is a good thing because the high flow keeps the pump lubed and cooled. But now the weekend is over time to drive home. So on the way down I set the exhaust brake and put it into 2nd gear and let it limp down the rough old trail it take about 45 minutes to 1 hour to return to the highway. So now the whole way down the mountain there is 12 PSI heading into the VP44 and but now your not throttling much if at all coming down the steep grade. So this means there is no flow to the injectors... And the Overflow valve is closed because you need 14 PSI to open it. So basically there is no fuel flow. So now the electronics and the mechanical part start to heat up the stale fuel and break it down. Remember diesel fuel is a very poor lubricant anyways. So now you see this is really easy to burn up or damage a injection pump. Now I'm starting to suggest 14-15 PSI as a minimum pressure and 20 PSI as a maximum pressure. This now keeps the overflow valve open and the fuel flowing through the pump while its spining and keeping the VP44 electronics cooled... Any thought on this???

Just bought a 95 12v 5 speed with 278k miles, I've done general maint. to it, cut the factory exhaust off so could breath, put a K&N air filter on. I have noticed on this truck that it spins over more before it will crank than my 02 24v does. I would like a little info on that, and also what I can do safely to give it a little more power, since it has high mileage. Thanks for any info..

What I have done: 1. #6 Fuel Plate - Full Forward 2. Boost Elbow 3. 4" Full Exhaust 4. TC Lockup Switch 5. BHAF http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1002dp_1994_to_1998_dodge_ram_power_recipes/1500_budget.html What I'm thinking of doing (in order): 1. Timing 2. 3K RPM Springs 3. Injectors I'm expecting my trans to blow up, so that will give me an excuse to go to a manual or build the 47rh. What I don't want to do is blow the head gasket, so I don't want so much power that requires me mod the head or valve springs.