Could really use some help - Engine knock

[Wild and Free]

Takes a bit longer since one needs to remove the entire front of the engine compartment radiator coolers ac condenser ect. Can't just pick it out the top like the old cars used to be they come out the front rather than out the top.

[Royal Squire]

At least you don't have to remove the cab!

[Ilikeoldfords]

Just thinking out loud here...

What do you guys think about something like this? I have been seeing ads like this all over the place. Obviously I would be making a lot of phone calls and getting every detail I could before ever ordering something. If I could keep it down to that $3000-$5000 range I might be able to make something happen in the next 6 months or so.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-9-dodge-cummins-engine-remanufactured-longblock-24-valve-installed-anywhere-us-/131711007588?hash=item1eaa967b64:g:LlMAAOSwL7VWksDm&vxp=mtr

Or.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-24-Valve-5-9-Cylinder-Block-No-Core-Required-/251486025718?hash=item3a8dbc37f6:g:VL8AAOxy0zhTMZPB&vxp=mtr

Or....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-9-CUMMINS-REMANUFACTURED-DIESEL-LONG-BLOCK-ENGINE-/331764307920?hash=item4d3eb197d0:g:ncgAAOSwQPlV-YAm&vxp=mtr

[Mopar1973Man]

I rather deal directly with the company not a Ebay page. I've seen too many times where deals too good to be true and then BAM! Gone... No one to warranty the product.

[JAG1]

Yes a long time ago I learned that a good deal is most often a bad deal and try to go reasonable or fair off the best stuff made.

[The_Hammer]

I can locate entire 24v trucks for $3000 or so around here but I'm a bit of a drive for ya lol.

[Ilikeoldfords]

Ya maybe it is to good to be true. The problem is the cheapest I have found in Montana just do the machine work and put together my long block is $6500. That doesn't include any of the rest of the assembly time or install time either. 

I would hate to have to put another engine that already has 200k miles on it back in the truck at this point. Then again, I won't be putting a $10k engine in it either. 

I'll keep searching... 

[hex0rz]

Just look for sellers on eBay with something of a reputation no lower than 99 but preferably 100. Also look for ones with higher review counts as well. Tells you they've been around a while and do good. Some people are on their and have storefront business but they are trying to reach further by doing internet sales.

Warranty work is different, eBay gives you Some protection but not over a long duration. That one is a gamble, but that's why I said look for those criteria.

[Wild and Free]

Make sure that any online purchase like this is made via credit card as well so one can have the credit card insurance along with them being able to help dispute and refund charges. I was lucky on a used engine deal gone bad many years ago by using this approach and the CC company did the bull dog work and got my money back but I had documented everything along the way with pics and the guarantee from the seller ect. Was supposedly a running engine for a car but when I got the thing it looked like they had drug it up from the bottom of the ocean, was full of water and everything was full of rust, pulled he plugs and they were rusty and the cylinders were all full of water too.

[eddielee]

My two cents are to find a totaled truck with low miles and no damage to the engine or trans. Pull and swap, sell the totaled truck to salvage yard. It would be much easier to pull the engine and trans together and stick it straight in to the truck with the harness attached.

I know it is hard to find this exact situation, especially where it is the rear end of the truck that was damaged. However it would definitely be the easiest cheapest way to do it.

A long block from a reputable source would be my next option.

Then salvage yard engine and probably sell the truck.

 

I am truly sorry you have had this experience and do not envy your situation, other than your truck would be far more worth the energy than mine.

 

That being said I would research the first link for their reputation and call them. Maybe worth the effort

Did a bit of searching and found good reviews on All-American Diesel the first link.

http://www.superpages.com/bp/Albuquerque-NM/American-Diesel-Service-LLC-L0135981227.htm#reviews

I would look for bad reviews though.

I just looked at their FB page and it is interesting, can't find a bad review whatsoever! $4000 installed not so bad! I would see what they want for just the long block too.

https://www.facebook.com/allamericandieselabq/?fref=ts

 

Edited January 29, 2016 by eddielee

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

here is a place in florida that sells used engines at good prices.

 

http://www.mylittlesalesman.com/find/cummins-59l-engines-i4c235f575m166280?maxyear=2001

[Ilikeoldfords]

That used engine site doesnt look bad at all! Just have to figure out what shipping would be on something like that. Thanks everyone for throwing out tips. I fully understand the risks I am taking when looking online for a purchase like an engine sight unseen. I would definitely be doing as much homework as possible on the seller and triple checking what coverage I have in the case of the seller disappearing when something comes up. It is just to hard to pass up the prices on some of this stuff. They can sell and deliver a product for half the price of having the same work done to my engine locally. Seems like a no brainer. Not to mention, Its not just one place or another. It would seem a lot more suspicious if I only found one seller with this pricing.

[moparguy55]

On 27/01/2016 at 1:38 PM, Ilikeoldfords said:

Just thinking out loud here...

What do you guys think about something like this? I have been seeing ads like this all over the place. Obviously I would be making a lot of phone calls and getting every detail I could before ever ordering something. If I could keep it down to that $3000-$5000 range I might be able to make something happen in the next 6 months or so.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-9-dodge-cummins-engine-remanufactured-longblock-24-valve-installed-anywhere-us-/131711007588?hash=item1eaa967b64:g:LlMAAOSwL7VWksDm&vxp=mtr

Or.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-24-Valve-5-9-Cylinder-Block-No-Core-Required-/251486025718?hash=item3a8dbc37f6:g:VL8AAOxy0zhTMZPB&vxp=mtr

Or....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-9-CUMMINS-REMANUFACTURED-DIESEL-LONG-BLOCK-ENGINE-/331764307920?hash=item4d3eb197d0:g:ncgAAOSwQPlV-YAm&vxp=mtr

$4k installed at your home for a remanned engine wow sounds too good to be true. I wonder what install consists of though just setting in place and bolting up mounts ? Surely they don't install all the bolt ons?

[eddielee]

7 hours ago, moparguy55 said:

$4k installed at your home for a remanned engine wow sounds too good to be true. I wonder what install consists of though just setting in place and bolting up mounts ? Surely they don't install all the bolt ons?

I had to look at that one again. It was actually a small installation fee, delivery is included though.

[TFaoro]

CR swap http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/04-5-07-3rd-gen-all-products/1925226-2003-2007-cummins-long-block.html

 

[Ilikeoldfords]

Ok Gents. I think I have a rough game plan together.

I found a reputable engine builder in Spokane, WA that I am going to use. Reman long block with assembled head for $4,300. Comes with a 12 month-12k mile warranty. I have a few different ways to get the motor to me for no charge, which is cool. I found a very good local shop who will do the swap for me at a great rate of $1,200 for labor. I am going to round up all the pieces and parts (Fluids, hoses, etc) myself, just to make sure I am getting the best deals I can.

I have a couple things on my mind though. First off, I am wanting to do this right. While the motor is out I am thinking that I want to spruce some things up. I am going to be getting some new silicon intercooler boots. I would also like to grab a new set of injectors. On the performance side, what about aftermarket cam shafts? Would it be worth looking at a stage one cam? What about turbos? I am currently planning on staying with the stock HX35, as long as it is still in good shape. If not, I am not sure what I am going to do when it comes to turbos.

What else should I be thinking about? Clutch is new as of 2 years ago. Injection pump is new as of 30k miles ago. Fuel system is new as of 30k miles ago. I have never really been happy with the injectors in the truck now. I think I am going to get some RV275's. I am going for mileage and reliability.

Thanks as always!

[CSM]

How many miles on injectors?  If original, RVs aren't a bad deal at all, especially with stock turbo.  

Clutch, if stock, (and planning on staying near stock power) should be fine. 

Boots won't hurt, but are an easy fix later.   

If you upgrade turbos, you are in a tough decision of where you want to make power.  Along with that decision, you have the question of programmers, injectors, exhaust and trans/clutch.  I like my 62 and 125s, but it is smoky at 6,000 ft pressure altitude.  If less than 4,000 pressure alt, I would recommend a II 62/12 turbo with the smarty.  Above that, I am still working toward a good combination. 

The one item I would look at is your clutch hydraulics.  I would replace it with a South Bend unit while the engine is out or a stock unit a minimum.  Any transmission bearings like pilot bearings and whatnot that are accessible, I would change while the engine is out.  

If I got really bored, I would do the power steering pump, starter brushes, and vacuum pump while it is out. 

A cam isn't bad, but is a lot of money.  I really REALLY want to try one.  If I were you, I wouldn't go for new cam springs unless my old ones are bad.  

In short, RV injectors will help. A cam... maybe.  A turbo is a calculation to sync with injectors, fuel, and driveline upgrades are never bad. 

Edited February 23, 2016 by CSM

[Ilikeoldfords]

Thanks for the input. Clutch is a Valair single disc, only a couple years old. I just changed the hydro system a few months ago. As for the injectors, I had some "40 hp" injectors put in about 40k miles ago. I thought I was getting true RV275's at the time but later learned that they used factory stock injectors and just put larger tips on them. I am going to get some true RV275's this go around. 

If my HX35 is still good I will just put a rebuild kit in it. If not, what would a good option be for turbos? Should I look into something other than an HX35? The RV275's are as large as I want to go injector-wise. 

[CSM]

Personally, id stick with stock hx then.

[CTcummins24V]

No point in upgrading turbo if you're just throwing in RV275s. The stock HX can flow enough air and keep things cool enough for 40 HP injectors. MY WH1C (HX35 essentially) handled my 100s just fine. I ran the comp off or on 3x3 when hauling heavy with no heat issues. There might be some upgraded aftermarket turbos out there that might spool a little quicker or keep things slightly cooler but not worth the $1200 price tag. UNLESS, your local rebuilder wants an arm and a leg to rebuild your turbo and balance it.

I think my Super B spools slower than any of the Holsets I had, but it flows more in the 1700-2200 rpm range and top end and keeps things cooler