Unidentified noise

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

i read somewhere that a guy drilled the housing of the unit bearing carefully and put a zerk fitting on it to grease. he had to modify the carrier to allow the zerk to fit though.

[TFaoro]

2 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

i read somewhere that a guy drilled the housing of the unit bearing carefully and put a zerk fitting on it to grease. he had to modify the carrier to allow the zerk to fit though.

I have read a couple of those threads. I would be very hesitant to try and drill through the race!

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

yeah you got to be precise and not get a single chip in there....

[hex0rz]

Crap!

 

Okay so i got under the truck tonight and looked things over. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary and maybe the brake pads could be the culprit. But something big caught my attention!

 

It very well may be the source of my noise but i don't care. What i do care about is the steering components. All of the ball joints on the parts are shot! Some even to the point i have alot of slop in the joint!

 

Will the balls actually come out of the socket if i keep driving it until i can replace them? Do i just have to press new balls in the joints or do i have to buy all new parts?

 

I've been reading up on this upgrade for our trucks from the 09-10 trucks with the part number: 52122362AF

 

Anyone know anything about that? What's my course of action here?

[TFaoro]

6 hours ago, hex0rz said:

Crap!

 

Okay so i got under the truck tonight and looked things over. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary and maybe the brake pads could be the culprit. But something big caught my attention!

 

It very well may be the source of my noise but i don't care. What i do care about is the steering components. All of the ball joints on the parts are shot! Some even to the point i have alot of slop in the joint!

 

Will the balls actually come out of the socket if i keep driving it until i can replace them? Do i just have to press new balls in the joints or do i have to buy all new parts?

 

I've been reading up on this upgrade for our trucks from the 09-10 trucks with the part number: 52122362AF

 

Anyone know anything about that? What's my course of action here?

You can NOT use that kit because you have a 99. You'll have to use the HD steering for your year, which is basically the same thing as the upgrade for the newer 2nd gens. The reason is the taper on the studs. They're different for the earlier years.

 

Will they fall out? Unlikely, but I wouldn't want to take a chance.

[JAG1]

On ‎7‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 0:52 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Be careful with the greasing idea. That why I got to ditch mine now because the graphite in the grease is messing with the ABS sensors. So now I got to replace my wheel bearing in front because of a grease issue. If I take the time and blow the grease out of the tone wheel teeth it last for about 2-3 days and comes right back after the grease get back in the teeth. 

Is it possible to coat the sensors with a shot of lacquer so the grease won't interfere?

 

I've never looked at the sensors so maybe a silly question.

 

BTW, Never thought of blowing the grease out of my teeth after a  burger.

[Mopar1973Man]

How the ABS sensors work is that the detect metal then gap then metal again. This creates a sinewave on the speed sensor lead back to the ABS module. The ABS module is capable of counting the cycles per second and turn it into speed numbers. So if the tone wheel has material in-between the teeth with metal (graphite loaded grease) then that gap is seen as filled with metal which now changes the frequency return to the ABS computer so now there is a offset from left to right and if so then the ABS will only allow so much then trigger the lights and disable the ABS. Like mine its enough offset that it pulls to the right when it does work but shortly trips the lights and disables the ABS function. Remember this speed function is compared to all 3 sensors and then used during braking to adjust brake pressures so a speed sensor that is showing slower like my left side does then the right applies more brake power and lighten the left so now you get pull to the right. 

 

Another way to see this action of the speed sensors you can take a sensor hook up a AC volt meter to the lead and now lightly tap on a metal surface. As it touches metal and breaks away it creates AC waveform that the meter can see. So the faster you do this the more cycles per second are produced.

Edited July 25, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[TFaoro]

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

How the ABS sensors work is that the detect metal then gap then metal again. This creates a sinewave on the speed sensor lead back to the ABS module. The ABS module is capable of counting the cycles per second and turn it into speed numbers. So if the tone wheel has material in-between the teeth with metal (graphite loaded grease) then that gap is seen as filled with metal which now changes the frequency return to the ABS computer so now there is a offset from left to right and if so then the ABS will only allow so much then trigger the lights and disable the ABS. Like mine its enough offset that it pulls to the right when it does work but shortly trips the lights and disables the ABS function.

 

Another way to see this action of the speed sensors you can take a sensor hook up a AC volt meter to the lead and now lightly tap on a metal surface. As it touches metal and breaks away it creates AC waveform that the meter can see. So the faster you do this the more cycles per second are produced.

 

But why is yours doing it? Is whatever grease that's left full of filings? That would mean it's new bearing time....

[Mopar1973Man]

 

I don't know why but there is an absolute left and right error of speed sensors. I've had it check few different times. I've replaced the front sensors 3 different times with the same results. I've had my front bearings checked there are still tight and the tire shop also agrees there is nothing wrong with the unit bearings. So that leaves me back to the tone rings and the sensors in the front. 

 

Why I don't know but 2 new unit bearings are outside my budget right now. 

[TFaoro]

15 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I don't know why but there is an absolute left and right error of speed sensors. I've had it check few different times. I've replaced the front sensors 3 different times with the same results. I've had my front bearings checked there are still tight and the tire shop also agrees there is nothing wrong with the unit bearings. So that leaves me back to the tone rings and the sensors in the front. 

 

Why I don't know but 2 new unit bearings are outside my budget right now. 

I don't blame you. They're expensive!!!

 

So are you going to put some grease in them  

[hex0rz]

Tell me more about this hd steering kit.  Need parts asap. Not driving truck today until i get new parts. Freaks me out for driving the truck like i have...

[Me78569]

 

[hex0rz]

Well, lo and behold. The truck already has the hd upgrade. But obviously the bjs were toast. So i replaced all the parts work moog. Lifetime warranty through o really. 

 

Finally got the parts swapped out. What a pita!!! 230k miles of seizing. I doubt they have ever been replaced. Bfh and pickle fork to knock out the bjs. Two men,  big as pipe wrenches with cheater bars in a big as vice to remove the sleeves. At one point even had to use a torch to heat them up to free them.

 

Almost just as bad to reinstall the sleeves. Everything is nice and tight again. Here's to hoping it stopped my noise! LOL 

 

Cost me like 5 smackers for the parts and way too many hours laying on my back to get through this. 

Edited July 26, 2016 by hex0rz

[hex0rz]

Well, the toe is extremely bad. I tried to retain the alignment but trying to screw the sleeves in tighter was just beyond my ability. I dunno how they do it at the shop. Probably a huge pipe wrench and two strong guys...

 

I won't be driving it again until my alignment appointment. I drove it today because i had to and i had to keep both hands on the wheel to keep it straight. Going over bumps was hairy. Fights me turning and wants to go into traffic. 

 

The noise i was trying to hunt down got worse too. So i think it's the front axle u joints. At the rate I'm going...

 

Im really not looking forward to doing those!

[dripley]

When you get it aligned look at the machine. As best as I remember the front tires sit on rotating pivots that allow the tires to turn independently from each other. No 2 big guys or a pipe wrench is needed. 

i just replaced mine on the 02 and it was not as bad as I thought it would be. Did the passenger side by myself and it was a bit of a pain since I only have a small bench vise. My grandson helped me with the driver side and it went much easier.

 

Doing it now for you would suck if you just had it all apart for the ball joints. I also am not sure of the differences between your and mine, 02 vs 99.

[Wild and Free]

The conversation on grease is something that I have not seen on forums. Mikes wheel bearing and speed sensor issue could well be a grease issue. There are so many different types of grease and all are spec'd out differently no different than engine oils just not quite as many options but just as critical in todays high speed high heat and close tolerance parts.

 

One needs to be careful when choosing grease for different things as they all have different applications and specifications for such. One needs to research grease almost like oils now days. Choosing the wrong one will leave you stranded real quickly in the right circumstances. Especially when one starts injection different spec grease in non serviceable items like unit hub bearings if not using the same grease certain additives much like some oils do not play well with other lubes and can cause other issues.

One wouldn't run diesel fuel as a lube in your diffs or a 90 weight in your engine so why would you look a grease any different?

Edited July 27, 2016 by Wild and Free

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

To move the adjustment sleeves you really need one of these. 

A pipe wrench will pinch the sleeve down making it harder to move. These open up the sleeve some while you're turning it and makes it so much easier. 

[hex0rz]

What are those specifically? 

 

Spanner something?

[Wild and Free]

Yes those are a form of spanner wrench, these are just designed for a ratchet, most have a handle, these are also for specific size sleeves most are of a universal design.

 

 

[TFaoro]

On ‎7‎/‎27‎/‎2016 at 10:25 AM, Wild and Free said:

The conversation on grease is something that I have not seen on forums. Mikes wheel bearing and speed sensor issue could well be a grease issue. There are so many different types of grease and all are spec'd out differently no different than engine oils just not quite as many options but just as critical in todays high speed high heat and close tolerance parts.

 

One needs to be careful when choosing grease for different things as they all have different applications and specifications for such. One needs to research grease almost like oils now days. Choosing the wrong one will leave you stranded real quickly in the right circumstances. Especially when one starts injection different spec grease in non serviceable items like unit hub bearings if not using the same grease certain additives much like some oils do not play well with other lubes and can cause other issues.

One wouldn't run diesel fuel as a lube in your diffs or a 90 weight in your engine so why would you look a grease any different?

I used axle grease (used on tapered roller bearings for trailers.) Is it right? Idk.... maybe, maybe not. I can tell you it's better than running them dry. Over time, the grease dries up and you're left with dry bearings. Then they start to make noise and fail. It's inevitable unless you grease them.

I'd rather put 5w30 in my engine than run it dry....