Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes

[Mopar1973Man]

I still laugh at that video. Dragging an empty fuel tank. How about full offroad use of the truck with a full fuel tank? Hmmm... 

 

Now take that sump and have it installed in a 8,000 pound truck with 35 gallons of fuel (diesel is 6.1 pounds per gallon equal to 213 pounds) now drive over a tree stump or large rock. I promise you that sump will disappear. When I'm grossing over 20,000 pounds I'm sure that little 1 bolt sump will snap off.

 

 

 

I should post picture of the dent in my rear passenger side floorboard from running over logs and other things.

Edited June 18, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[cumminsVP2001]

Forgot to ask @Me78569 I'm going to be doing a wot at lvl3. Should I be spraying water or no. Any time I'm getting on it I plan on spraying but not sure if you wanted to see without it

[Silverdodge]

On 6/15/2018 at 12:16 PM, MoparLevi said:

 Beans sump kit is the only one id recommend,  if you want to try an ebay one its up to you

I run a g&r nice piece

[adamey1000]

I was hoping that you guys might be kind enough to look over my current tune and give me feedback. This is a daily driving tune, and I do enjoy the power. I like to have the passing power, but rarely hit WOT. Any input or comments would be appreciated. I am new to all of this, but trying to learn! I used a smarty S03 up until recently, and really liked the off the line power that it made. I have been very surprised by the lack of smoke that the Quadzilla makes so far. It is night and day compared to the smarty. The smarty smoked so bad that even with my relatively mild injectors, I had to be careful to keep from smoking out intersections on hard acceleration. I am glad to be rid of the smoke, but I liked the low speed power of the smarty. I suspect that the TPS gain had more to do with that than the actual tuning, but it would be nice to be able to mimic that low speed punch without the smoke.

 

Power Levels:7

 

Timing

Fuel Load Timing:3.0

Low PSI Timing Reduct:2.0

Timing Reduct Scaling:50

Light Throttle Timing Adv:2.0

Light Throttle Timing Load Limit:30

 

Timing vs rpm

1500:14

2000:20

2500:22

3000:24.5

Timing Max:25.5
 

Wiretap

Pump Stretch:1800

TPS Pump max:60

TPS Pump Min:10

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:5

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 15

 

Boost Scaling:30

 

RPM Limit:

3200

Power Reduction:60

 

0 PSI %:105

1 PSI %:107

2 PSI %:109

3 PSI %:111

4 PSI %:113

5 PSI %:115

6 PSI %:118

7 PSI %:121

8 PSI %:124

9 PSI %:127

10 PSI %:130

11 PSI %:132

12 PSI %:135

13 PSI %:137

14 PSI %:140

15 PSI %:144

16 PSI %:146

18 PSI %:150

20 PSI %:150

22 PSI %:150

24 PSI %:150

26 PSI %:150

28 PSI %:150

30 PSI %:150

[trreed]

Start with bringing your 1500 rpm slider up to 16*

[Quadzilla Power]

3 minutes ago, adamey1000 said:

The smarty smoked so bad that even with my relatively mild injectors, I had to be careful to keep from smoking out intersections on hard acceleration. I am glad to be rid of the smoke, but I liked the low speed power of the smarty. I suspect that the TPS gain had more to do with that than the actual tuning, but it would be nice to be able to mimic that low speed punch without the smoke.

 

Here is where your trade-off is most apparent. By adding more fuel down low, you will inherently smoke more. The more "low-end" speed generally means more capability of producing smoke.

With that said, there are a couple of ways you can go about tuning this. First off, go ahead and increase the Timing Reduction Scaling to 100%. You will probably want to reduce the full 2 degrees at the high throttle low boost in order to help your turbo spool a little faster thereby getting you out of the "smoke zone" a little faster. 

 

Now, with your tune using the factory defaults of 105, 107... ramp rate, you are already putting out more than stock fueling. With your larger injectors you are probably putting out a little smoke already. If you really want a "smokeless" tune, you will need to start messing with the Valet Mode power level and its setting. Up it to closer to 90% and test on level 1. If you are making smoke, back that percentage down until you don't make any smoke. If you are burning clean, then you can up it until you make a little smoke, then back it back down a percent. If you go all the way to 100% without making any smoke then you might need to move on to power level 3 and mess with the CAN bus fueling until you find a point where you start to smoke down low and then back off from there.

For example, start by setting all of the CAN bus equalizer to 105% and test your smoke output. If you don't smoke, set all of the equalizer to 107% and see if you see any smoke. Step up and down according to the smoke out put that you are comfortable with. Once you have a good starting point, build from there with a ramp in fueling. ME will tell you all you need is 121% or so on the top end to max out the CAN bus fueling, but it doesn't hurt anything to have the higher number.

 

trreed Just mentioned moving your 1500 RPM slider up. That's not a bad idea to do either. 

[adamey1000]

38 minutes ago, Quadzilla Power said:

 

Here is where your trade-off is most apparent. By adding more fuel down low, you will inherently smoke more. The more "low-end" speed generally means more capability of producing smoke.

With that said, there are a couple of ways you can go about tuning this. First off, go ahead and increase the Timing Reduction Scaling to 100%. You will probably want to reduce the full 2 degrees at the high throttle low boost in order to help your turbo spool a little faster thereby getting you out of the "smoke zone" a little faster. 

 

Now, with your tune using the factory defaults of 105, 107... ramp rate, you are already putting out more than stock fueling. With your larger injectors you are probably putting out a little smoke already. If you really want a "smokeless" tune, you will need to start messing with the Valet Mode power level and its setting. Up it to closer to 90% and test on level 1. If you are making smoke, back that percentage down until you don't make any smoke. If you are burning clean, then you can up it until you make a little smoke, then back it back down a percent. If you go all the way to 100% without making any smoke then you might need to move on to power level 3 and mess with the CAN bus fueling until you find a point where you start to smoke down low and then back off from there.

For example, start by setting all of the CAN bus equalizer to 105% and test your smoke output. If you don't smoke, set all of the equalizer to 107% and see if you see any smoke. Step up and down according to the smoke out put that you are comfortable with. Once you have a good starting point, build from there with a ramp in fueling. ME will tell you all you need is 121% or so on the top end to max out the CAN bus fueling, but it doesn't hurt anything to have the higher number.

 

trreed Just mentioned moving your 1500 RPM slider up. That's not a bad idea to do either. 

I have moved the timing slider up, and changed the boost scaling.

Just to be clear,

"You will probably want to reduce the full 2 degrees at the high throttle low boost in order to help your turbo spool a little faster thereby getting you out of the "smoke zone" a little faster."

This would be about the low PSI timing reduct, correct? in which case no further action is required, since that is already what I have. Sorry if this is an obvious question, but I am learning!

 

I really appreciate the feedback, and I will start messing with the canbus fueling to see what I can do. I know that the smoke vs low boost power is going to be a trade off, but I want to see how far I can go with clean power. Blowing smoke was fun with the smarty for about the first 15 minutes, and then it became an annoyance. So I will sacrifice some of the off idle power for a cleaner burning set-up.

 

[cumminsVP2001]

The next thing I would do is put your tps pump max at 90+ having it at 60% means your basically wot and getting full fuel at 60% throttle

[Quadzilla Power]

Yes, having reduced your MAX to 14 from 16 is almost the same thing, but its always like that instead of only when needed. 

[Raffron]

I am currently having an issue I cannot seem to clear gallon trip meter. I have tried shutting off the app, I have tried clearing the data log. any suggestions?

Also. Does anyone have a VIN decoder so I know what gears I have? The paper decal in the glove box is disintegrated.

[trreed]

Go to settings and toggle the gallon trip setting.  That's the reset

 

[notlimah]

Pretty sure vin decoder is in the beginning of the FSM downloaded here on the site.

[Me78569]

7 hours ago, adamey1000 said:

I was hoping that you guys might be kind enough to look over my current tune and give me feedback. This is a daily driving tune, and I do enjoy the power. I like to have the passing power, but rarely hit WOT. Any input or comments would be appreciated. I am new to all of this, but trying to learn! I used a smarty S03 up until recently, and really liked the off the line power that it made. I have been very surprised by the lack of smoke that the Quadzilla makes so far. It is night and day compared to the smarty. The smarty smoked so bad that even with my relatively mild injectors, I had to be careful to keep from smoking out intersections on hard acceleration. I am glad to be rid of the smoke, but I liked the low speed power of the smarty. I suspect that the TPS gain had more to do with that than the actual tuning, but it would be nice to be able to mimic that low speed punch without the smoke.

 

 

dont believe your butt dyno.  I have recorded nearly no difference in 0-60 times when going from a %100 clean tune to an overfueled tune.   The overfueled tune feels faster, but it really isn't much if at all when I look at the logging.  

[cumminsVP2001]

@Me78569 finally finished getting my air dog hooked up. here is my data. i believe i did 2 pulls on lvl 3 and 2 pulls on lvl 5. i noticed some slight popping on my last pull (timing?) its never done it ever before in my hundreds of pulls with this truck. if you could please take a look at the data and let me know what you see i would really appreciate it!

iQuad-2018-06-29-09.48.181435713432.csv

[Mopar1973Man]

9 hours ago, cumminsVP2001 said:

i noticed some slight popping on my last pull (timing?)

 

Timing for sure. You need to pull back some timing in that RPM range that it popping.

[Me78569]

Might try less fuel stretch if it pops only on lvl 5.  with 7 x .012's you really dont need much wiretap to make a huge difference.

[cumminsVP2001]

im just confused because it has only happend once out of the dozens of pulls with the quad. i just looked and my fuek stretch was at 1800. i thought i had changed it to 1600. 

any way you could pull that data for me @Me78569 

i tried to record my phone with my gauges on it with my fiances phone but looking back at the footage you cant see anything. 

i know my egts only got to around 1250* on lvl3. they got over 1500* on lvl 5 quickly.

i was trying to look at my fuel pressure more than anything since i just installed the air dog. even with the air dog im idling at 15-16psi and dropping to 12psi at wot. id be much happier idling at 18-19 and dropping to 15

[Me78569]

The graph looks better, but you are still needing to use a ton of backdown.  I would drop your wiretap to 1200-1400 and see how it is.   You don't have air for 1800 us of wiretap.

 

looks like EGT's are pretty good.  

 

Idealy I would like to see canbus stuck at 4095 at WOT and egt's and boost stable without needing backdown.  Note how canbus is in the ~3000 area during the WOT pull.   I know that wiretap is making up for that, but you dont want that.   I would set  pump low boost scale to ~10 psi so that you rely on canbus fueling down low and wiretap starts to come on at high PSI.  Set the limit at a PSI you are not steady at often.  If you are just "passing by" that psi then you won't feel the wiretap come on.

Edited July 1, 2018 by Me78569

[Raffron]

What do you mean by backdown? I am having issues with egts also. 

[Mopar1973Man]

On 6/18/2018 at 10:59 AM, trreed said:

Start with bringing your 1500 rpm slider up to 16*

 

The timing values should be a spread of +3 per band starting at 16 is a good place. 

 

Something to be aware of as IAT Temperatures rise you need to retard timing. As IAT falls then you can advance timing. The only time this rule change is with the cetane rating of the fuel if cetane is high then you need to retard some regardless of the IAT. Because high cetane fuel ignites easy and quick so heavy advancement with high cetane is counterproductive.