High amp alternator

[outlaw7]

ok folks here it goes....... I found 2 grounds like w-t displayed, including one at the bottom of the ecm that had four 14awg tieed to a 10 awg that deadheads beside the starter on the block the fuel pump +12v is done this way as well as a couple buss sets and and a power set and I redid them all , I removed that big clump of orange wire that was like an extra foot and a half of uselessness, everything was fluxed soldered and heat shrunk to ease my mind.... and that's just the lower engine harness....the upper has only a couple done that way but both are bussing 2 for the +/- buss and two for the can buss protocol . yeah it was a lot of fun best part is I did not repeat not have a single short anywhere anywhen started get kinda pissy at that point. was cruising the web about my dash no bus condition and found two neat things number one is you can initiate a gauge cluster self test by holding in the trip reset and turning key to on position no start then releasing it and it will give you itws own trouble codes and everything....very cool.... and two again whilst bewildered scared and alone I found a true nugget that might save my sorry ***. guy claimed to have same symptoms I do werird codes no pcm coms no buss and dead pedaling issues that act strange he was checking connections and found his power distribution block harness connector ( the one that ties the engine harness to the firewall and power etc ) was NOT ONLY LOSE BUT NASTY HER CLEANED IT UP AND TIGHTENED IT AND BYE BYE CODES AND PROBLEMS ...WELL JUST SO HAPPENS WHEN I WENT TO YANK MINE OFF THE DAM BOLT SPUN FREELY IN MY FINGERS sorry caps lock bomb.... and as an added bonus got the green grimey goo not much but enough and it just happens to be on the buss side on the buss pins and connectors so I am going to walworld for contact cleaner cant get that keg deoxit W-T has so poor boys poor ways ive been gently scarping the female pins to clean them and then back to step hmmmm 8

 

so this is everything ive done all mods included

step 1 remove lower engine harness, better bring your patience meter and some Tylenol 6 big pain in the keister

          had only two casualties 1 is my lo side ac sensor it was melted to the connector so it got the loraina bobbit

          treatment. 2 the ground behind the starter bolt was froze solid its 10mm and I said $%^%#$%^ and lopped it off

          with a note to repair it

step 2 remove upper harness much mo easier guys, no problems at all

          total time for steps one and two 2.75 hours

          tools needed 10mm wrench and deep and shallows 1/4" drive , needle nose pliers flat blade screwdriver

          13mm 3/8" drive and long handle wratchet  side cutters and a I think 6mm allen wrench for the ecm connector

step 3 clean the harness I first sprayed it with brake kleen and wiped it down then a dose of acetone on a rag

step 4 strip the harnesses this was a lot of fun gently cutting and unwrapping everything and of course pictures for 

           refrence took 1 hour and needed two pairs needle nose to spread the harness clamps open and a set of

           front cuts for zipties and a small razor knife

step 5 reclean the harness cause it was nasty........... again acetone and a rag and patience lots of acetone and

           patience

step 6 using a copy of the 3 illistrations for the engine bay harness courtesy of mopar1973man which I spliced together with scissors and tape to make one large continuous map for ease of use I started ohming out every last dam thing total time 3 hours on harness one with notes and 2 hours on upper harness with notes

step 7 lower

          repairswhile I did not find any shorts I did feel the need to fix dodges sloppy handiwork so I repaired thw two

          ground points located just below the ecm split,  the fuel pump buss also below the split and added my custom

          fuel pump feed for my mid frame setup as well to the ground and fuel pump, the big mass of orange wire

          all tied together whicg there is 18" extra nopt needed that got shortened up its listed as a switch supply at the

          ecm I also repaired the ground mess further up near the alternator as well as another power related one

          red with white stripe that was done the same way.

          additions were as follows....a I taped a small blue wire on to the pump 12 v+ supply for the vp44

          which will go to the cab to a 12v led indicator for full time pump power notification and a orange 22awg wire

          to the apps sensor feed which again wikll go to the cab to a test banna point for quik check and monitor

          of my apps voltage via old skool analog meter these both have their own wetpack m/f connector at

          the point the lower ties into the upper and at the firewall where they leave going to the cab.

          upper

          the only repairs made were for the 2 can buss and the 2 buss points done the same way as the others solder

          and heat shrink, then I added my thermos couple feed for my gauge two 22 awg wires, 3 wires for my

          dc amps volts meter setup, 2 wires for the vp44 and apps test points and 4 wires 16awg for switching remotes

          on auxillary systems lights compressor etc, then I stripped and crimped all of my wet pack pins

          made an add on schematic for future refrence on pins and *** embled all my extra connectors together

step 8 tapeing every 8 to 10 " for ease in relooming then adding loom and then taping the harness front to back and at

           at all joints total time about 5 hours  tools solder iron solder sm phillips screwdriver all kinds of crimpers and

           strippers and other soldering based tools

step 9 ohm out new additions time 15 minutes

step 10 apply dielectric grease to all connectors everywhere and crimp on a new ring terminal for the ground

          by starter which I used 10b awg hi strand for that ground

step 11 reattach the harness clamps took about 10 minutes but set them loosely cause theygotta be movable

step 12 will be to install it

 

now I removed the alternator feed because it was whimpy and I'm wantin hefty plus I'm installing my ripple filter

beta test 001 for further evaluation . I'm installing 2 awg cable on its own route

 

so that's what ive done so far

 

[W-T]

2 hours ago, notlimah said:

@W-T Link to the batteries you’re using??

@notlimahThe AGM's I'm using are Optima but, there are other band names available. The Red Top Optima is what I selected because of the cost factor. The real "high end" AGM's featured in the audio world are extremely robust and investment at that level was beyond my requirements. My primary reason for AGM is only to avoid the slow lingering corrosive out-gassing that is prevalent with wet lead acid packages. AMG's gas too but, at extremely low levels and if you experience profuse gassing from an AGM package there is real issues in the charging system.

 

@outlaw7 would have experience with AGM plaftorm selection due to his background in high-current,demand, audio systems.

 

Oh... and yes Garet...wow...your efforts and extreme fortitude in that project is off the hook ! Perhaps I missed it but, I must ask ?...did you address the "ground" regarding the four blk/tan wires "glue spliced" in the harness at the front of the engine? This is the ground lead (#8 blk/tan) that is connected to the passenger side battery tray. I'm very concerned about that particular aspect. The method Dodge implemented with this ground assembly and routing, is in my opinion, a real error. 

@dripley  this "ground" assembly I'm referring to is something you should look at...you're going to truly dislike the procedure if you elect to do so but, knowing about your long term telemetry observations I think it would be prudent to invest the effort.

 

I'm going back out in the garage to continue with this project...@outlaw7 is out pacing me by miles.   

[greed]

This thread has been extremely interesting. I looked up the Caig DEOXIT that W-T mentioned. It is available in several different configurations on Amazon.

[JAG1]

2 hours ago, outlaw7 said:

.... and two again whilst bewildered scared and alone I found a true nugget that might save my sorry ***. guy claimed to have same symptoms I do werird codes no pcm coms no buss and dead pedaling issues that act strange he was checking connections and found his power distribution block harness connector ( the one that ties the engine harness to the firewall and power etc ) was NOT ONLY LOSE BUT NASTY HER CLEANED IT UP AND TIGHTENED IT AND BYE BYE CODES AND PROBLEMS ...WELL JUST SO HAPPENS WHEN I WENT TO YANK MINE OFF THE DAM BOLT SPUN FREELY IN MY FINGERS sorry caps lock bomb....

Are you talking about the bolt that holds the power lead terminal to the power distribution box? Sorry, having trouble knowing where this is...

[dripley]

57 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Are you talking about the bolt that holds the power lead terminal to the power distribution box? Sorry, having trouble knowing where this is...

I am thinking he means the one in the upper right corner in this picture.

 

I hope no one cringes at my dusty under hood but I am normally parked in a dusty world at work most of the time. Not that anyone here is anal about cleanliness.

 

 

Edited February 10, 2018 by dripley

[JAG1]

Thanks Bud... appreciate you doing this.

[dripley]

You are welcome. Now if some one had one photo that would make me electrically UN challenged, that would fantastic.

[JAG1]

I understand. The first thing that's taking a long time to sink in is the ground, being that 'it goes to ground' and is called negative, actually the electrons are running the other way, from negative battery post to the positive. That one messes with me real good like the earths coordinces got switched somehow.

 

That's OK though.........Cause I've read this thread many times and has helped a lot.

 

But most of all W-T has taken the time to talk with me on my level / used a concrete drill to get things thru my thick head

 

Dripley its most important to ask questions on whats got you baffled. Not asking is not smart because now that W-T has drilled it into my thinking it has become very simple. I can't explain how it feels to have all this discomfort and confusion about it for so long and then all of a sudden like being cured from a disease, be able to understand.

 

Edited February 10, 2018 by JAG1

[dripley]

 

 

3 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I understand. The first thing that's taking a long time to sink in is the ground, being that 'it goes to ground' and is called negative, actually the electrons are running the other way, from negative battery post to the positive. That one messes with me real good like the earths coordinces got switched somehow.

 

That's OK though.........Cause I've read this thread many times and has helped a lot.

 

But most of all W-T has taken the time to talk with me on my level / used a concrete drill to get things thru my thick head

 

Dripley its most important to ask questions on whats got you baffled. Not asking is not smart because now that W-T has drilled it into my thinking it has become very simple. I can't explain how it feels to have all this discomfort and confusion about it for so long and then all of a sudden like being cured from a disease, be able to understand.

 

I understand what you are saying and I have read this with great interest. Need to do some re reading to get a better grip on it. My problem right now is no time implement any help I would get. When I get this darn CFA open I will be back on an even keel  and have some quality time to digest it better. Think I will retain the info better and fix my gremlins. 

 

@W-T I agree with what you said above. I have a  spare engine harness I partially opened up the other day to find that ground. I am hoping to open up, address any issues and swap into my truck.

[JAG1]

I think the older we get the more important, for staying young, that we learn things and stay interested. W-T has woke me up from long sleep  and know how dormant I was before.

[IBMobile]

8 hours ago, dripley said:

Now if some one had one photo that would make me electrically UN challenged, that would fantastic.

                             

 

I've been trying to keep up on this thread. Wish I could contribute more to the research but I'm busier than a one armed paperhanger.  There are a lot of promising things being found and discussed.  It will be interesting what the finale findings are.  

[Dieselfuture]

That is a bit disturbing @IBMobile 

[JAG1]

[Ben]

9 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

That is a bit disturbing @IBMobile 

Especially for those of us whose relationship with electricity is akin to hot grease and skin.

 

Absolutely fantastic thread guys!!!!! 

 

Keep it up!!

[outlaw7]

 Ok Dripley n Jag1 yes that was is the bolt and connector I'm talking about in the pic upper right corner black connector and W-T yes I fixed all of them there were 3 places the ground did that I'll be reinstalling today

I'm going to open a web store selling cable kits custom harnesses test tools and DC filters stiffining solutions soon

[JAG1]

 

 

 That's what happened when Dripley tried wiring up his hood ornament to have open wings at 60.

Edited February 11, 2018 by JAG1

[Nekkedbob]

After rereading some of the earlier posts I thought that I should chime in. When I started working back in the 70s electrical and electronic part were made for X power but were heavy enough to almost double that before you worried about it. As time has gone on the over power capability has gone down. This is why I think that a original alternator would go so long and the rebuilds (using new parts ) don't last. I worked as a R&D tech and was allowed to do things (destructive testing) that would get a person fired today. As time has gone by I have noticed that this has happened to all aspects of my life and that to many things that I deal with. If you look in a UGLYs reference you will find that almost all of our harness wires are under sized for the current vs run.  A good example is we would put a v8 in Toyota with the stock rear end and not break it. Today you can over stress a rear end just by putting a tuner on one.

Edited February 12, 2018 by Nekkedbob

[IBMobile]

2 hours ago, Nekkedbob said:

When I started working back in the 70s electrical and electronic part were made for X power but were heavy enough to almost double that before you worried about it. As time has gone on the over power capability has gone down. 

These new vehicles are being made as light as possible to meet the federal Corporate Average Fuel Standards (CAFE), still conform to the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) requirements, reduce tail pipe emissions for the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and make a profit.  

 

With computer aided designs the tolerances can be taken down to where the fudge factor is engineered to the minimum allowed.   The weight reduction in just the wiring harness has been reduced.  The pre 1990 autos had heaver gauge wire in them IE: 16 AWG used for the park, stop, turn lights now there is 18 AWG and some systems, CVVT solenoid comes to mind, are using 20 AWG.  Plastic bumpers, plastic doors, plastic fenders and plastic junk.

 

Where lucky these trucks have made it this long.  With bad EPA solder, ground wires just jammed together with out even a crimp.  Auto trans that can't take the torque of a diesel engine, OEM lift pumps that fail every 15,000 miles, dashboards that crack into 50 pieces, et cetera.    With out web sites like this and some decent aftermarket parts these trucks would have ben in the bone yard years ago.  

                                         

 

          

[Dieselfuture]

6 hours ago, IBMobile said:

With out web sites like this and some decent aftermarket parts these trucks would have ben in the bone yard years ago.  

Trucks probably,  drivetrain,.... not all. I'm speaking off an engine, manual transmission, Dana axles,  NP transfer case, pretty much why I bought my truck. There seems to always be enough enthusiasts to keep things going, if our trucks were made much cheaper there would have been a lot of other vehicles without a drivetrain in them,  just thinking out loud here.

Edited February 12, 2018 by Dieselfuture
Smart phone is not too smart

[dripley]

I can see the day that we junk vehicles just because the electronics are shot and are too expensive to repair. Chasinf gremlins at a shop is already expensive.