Fuel Tank Module Check Valve

[JAG1]

Greenlee, You should get someone to watch the gauge while your turning down fuel pressure. I went down to ten and then slowly turned it up to 28 I believe and then put it in the proper range of 19 and my problem for a year is now gone. I wouldn't run the truck without getting the relay on there first and get 1/2 inch lines. Otherwise, even tho you put it at 19 at idle those tiny fuel lines will let it drop below 14 when going up hill or accelerating and thats bad. 10 is okay momentarily at idle, but not when running down the road  and the injection pump is hot.

[Royal Squire]

I would talk to Eric @ Vulcan. My guess is he can help you relocate that pump with the proper wiring harness/relay, fuel line, pickup, etc. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Can relocate the pump. That particular pump has a small discharge port designed to use a banjo bolt. He would need a normal Raptor first.

[Greenlee]

On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 10:40 PM, dripley said:

I am living and learning. I never looked at the FRRP's, I wanted something better.

 

The ECM can fry due to the 12v power for the pump coming thru the ECM. The full AD and FASS systems come with a wiring harness that uses the oe pigtail for a relay trigger and the 12v would come from battery or elswhere taking the load off of the ECM. It is a very good long term set up. 

 

My thoughts go two ways since you are wanting to sell the truck. One is get the fuel system in good working order how ever far you want to take it. Then

represent it as such to prospective buyers, a litle better than than the oe system. I dont mean just cobble something together thats going fall apart a month. A buyer in the know already knows what you have and one that doesnt let him know if he wants to soup it up or drive for a long time he should put a better fuel system on it.

 

Two, go all out on the fuel system and represent it that way and ask a little more for it. 

 

I could sleep well either way.

I couldn't see Wednesday from having my eyes dilated, must have been a double dose, and yesterday I talked with Eric at Vulcan as suggested by several members. I explained the situation and Eric came up with a solution. He's making up a draw straw with the Draw Straw 5 at the top of the Fuel Basket and a Universal set up at the bottom. We went with 3/8" ID to the FRRP 150 located on the engine. Eric got all the connectors and hose in addition to complete the over haul. Early next week it will all be here. Excellent folks to speak with at Vulcan. I really appreciate you all suggesting I call him. I have a Raptor 150 that is set up to go on the frame but no hard ware including brackets, wiring, connectors or instructions to make it work. I didn't ask Eric if he had the parts separate to make this work because simply I can't afford it right now. If I sell the 98 12v and decide to keep the 24v then I will invest in a better fuel system. I don't know if the other new Raptor that mounts on the frame is good or not as far as being reliable compared to other lift pumps. It looks almost exactly like the Raptor on the engine but the mounting holes are different. There is always something to deal with regardless if it's a 12v or a 24v. The transmission if its automatic for either one and the lift pump and VP44 for the 24v. I hate I can't work on the projects I always thought I would to do when retired but that's life. I'm still blessed even if I'm a little slow moving and thinking. I don't feel guilty any more trying to express my thoughts because I can always find the answers I need and advice I need when I can't remember all the details. I will keep you all posted on how this turns out. I wonder if I can get a wiring harness from Eric like JAG1 pointed on Frying the ECM? If not the Raptor on the frame what would you all suggest. Can't go mechanical because my brother put a Fluidampener on the front of the engine. No way to fit a mechanical pump there any more. Have a blessed day.

[Greenlee]

On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 11:47 PM, JAG1 said:

Greenlee, You should get someone to watch the gauge while your turning down fuel pressure. I went down to ten and then slowly turned it up to 28 I believe and then put it in the proper range of 19 and my problem for a year is now gone. I wouldn't run the truck without getting the relay on there first and get 1/2 inch lines. Otherwise, even tho you put it at 19 at idle those tiny fuel lines will let it drop below 14 when going up hill or accelerating and thats bad. 10 is okay momentarily at idle, but not when running down the road  and the injection pump is hot.

I mentioned this bit of advice to Eric at Vulcan because it has been an on going ordeal with pressure. I only have a fuel pressure gauge on top of the fuel filter. I told my brother 3 years ago to put gauges on it especially one for fuel. I have a set for the 12v that I never put on it so depending if I keep the 99 or not I'll have to see the new way to put the fuel gauge on since it's not recommended to come off the VP44 port from what I've read. Thanks for explaining this to me. I guess this is the answer when the pressure changes.

On ‎9‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 7:15 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Can relocate the pump. That particular pump has a small discharge port designed to use a banjo bolt. He would need a normal Raptor first.

Maybe it's a different port for the Raptor 150. What are you running on your frame mount?

[IBMobile]

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

I wonder if I can get a wiring harness from Eric like JAG1 pointed on Frying the ECM?

If Eric at Vulcan doesn't have a wire harness with relay this article might help.

 

 

[01cummins4ever]

2 hours ago, Greenlee said:

Can't go mechanical because my brother put a Fluidampener on the front of the engine. No way to fit a mechanical pump there any more. Have a blessed day.

Personaly If your going for the long haul I would put a stock harmonic balancer and a fuel boss. 

I had a raptor frame mount, ran it for about 6 years then it finally gave up, but I would not install another, Just was never impressed or confident in it. my distrust in it was bad enough I did carry an extra fuel pump in the toolbox on long trips.

I like taking all electrical and the ecm out of the equation of fuel delivery with the mechanical pump. 

[Greenlee]

On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 10:40 PM, dripley said:

I am living and learning. I never looked at the FRRP's, I wanted something better.

 

The ECM can fry due to the 12v power for the pump coming thru the ECM. The full AD and FASS systems come with a wiring harness that uses the oe pigtail for a relay trigger and the 12v would come from battery or elswhere taking the load off of the ECM. It is a very good long term set up. 

 

My thoughts go two ways since you are wanting to sell the truck. One is get the fuel system in good working order how ever far you want to take it. Then

represent it as such to prospective buyers, a litle better than than the oe system. I dont mean just cobble something together thats going fall apart a month. A buyer in the know already knows what you have and one that doesnt let him know if he wants to soup it up or drive for a long time he should put a better fuel system on it.

 

Two, go all out on the fuel system and represent it that way and ask a little more for it. 

 

I could sleep well either way.

After reading this I think I will call and order a wiring harness for the Raptor. What about the control of the lift pump with the key? How will it pump for 30 seconds? Do you have to use a fuse that is powered up when the key is on? Somebody will get a good deal or I will try and figure out how to modify the clutch and a few other items and keep it. Don't even have a clue where to start on price. New upper and lower ball joints, Fluidampr, new radiator, rebuilt turbo, rebuilt ECM, new ceramic brakes front and rear, new rotors, new power steering pump, new shocks,  new center bearing. new alternator, new water pump, and new Raptor all in the last few months. Oh, new TEE and banjo joint for return fuel from the head and no leaks on fuel anywhere. Paint is excellent and so is the interior. I thought I would start at $12,500.00 and go from there. If I get low balled or it doesn't sell I'll keep it and work on the rest, well somebody will be working on it. Thanks for the suggestions

2 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

Personaly If your going for the long haul I would put a stock harmonic balancer and a fuel boss. 

I had a raptor frame mount, ran it for about 6 years then it finally gave up, but I would not install another, Just was never impressed or confident in it. my distrust in it was bad enough I did carry an extra fuel pump in the toolbox on long trips.

I like taking all electrical and the ecm out of the equation of fuel delivery with the mechanical pump. 

I thought about selling the Fluidampr separate and putting a stock harmonic back on. How do you like the Fuel Boss? Any issues to watch for?

3 hours ago, IBMobile said:

If Eric at Vulcan doesn't have a wire harness with relay this article might help.

 

 

Unbelievable, I looked through it and if I can follow what's going on it would be great. It sounds complicated but the pictures help bring it into focus. The micro relay? was it factory and plugged into an open slot not being used?

Thanks for this article, I really appreciate it. I guess overall it's hard to beat the cost of putting a good 2nd generation together with all the little mods to make it reliable compared to the cost of the newer diesel common rails. I can see now why it's important to get the lift pump off the ECM circuit, everything adds up after while. Thank you.

23 minutes ago, Greenlee said:

After reading this I think I will call and order a wiring harness for the Raptor. What about the control of the lift pump with the key? How will it pump for 30 seconds? Do you have to use a fuse that is powered up when the key is on? Somebody will get a good deal or I will try and figure out how to modify the clutch and a few other items and keep it. Don't even have a clue where to start on price. New upper and lower ball joints, Fluidampr, new radiator, rebuilt turbo, rebuilt ECM, new ceramic brakes front and rear, new rotors, new power steering pump, new shocks,  new center bearing. new alternator, new water pump, and new Raptor all in the last few months. Oh, new TEE and banjo joint for return fuel from the head and no leaks on fuel anywhere. Paint is excellent and so is the interior. I thought I would start at $12,500.00 and go from there. If I get low balled or it doesn't sell I'll keep it and work on the rest, well somebody will be working on it. Thanks for the suggestions

I thought about selling the Fluidampr separate and putting a stock harmonic back on. How do you like the Fuel Boss? Any issues to watch for?

Unbelievable, I looked through it and if I can follow what's going on it would be great. It sounds complicated but the pictures help bring it into focus. The micro relay? was it factory and plugged into an open slot not being used?

Thanks for this article, I really appreciate it. I guess overall it's hard to beat the cost of putting a good 2nd generation together with all the little mods to make it reliable compared to the cost of the newer diesel common rails. I can see now why it's important to get the lift pump off the ECM circuit, everything adds up after while. Thank you.

(((The relay of choice is the mini ISO otherwise known as the Bosch type in either 4 or 5 terminal, normally open (NO).   Relay terminal 30 is switched power or common in,)))

Can this relay be bought at an auto parts store? and what do you mean when you said "common in"? 

[dripley]

If you have doubts about building the harness, I am pretty sure you can it. Another Eric question. And i assume from what you wrote you see how the the whole will be controled. It will operate just like oe.

[Dieselfuture]

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

I guess overall it's hard to beat the cost of putting a good 2nd generation together with all the little mods to make it reliable compared to the cost of the newer diesel common rails. I can see now why it's important to get the lift pump off the ECM circuit, everything adds up after while.

[IBMobile]

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

Can this relay be bought at an auto parts store? and what do you mean when you said "common in"? 

The Bosch or mini type relay is common and can be purchased in any auto parts store.  Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor.   

 

This is a mini relay with suppressing resistor and mounting tab 

 

"Common in" refers to pin #30 where in this case the 12 volt power from the battery comes into the relay.   

[Greenlee]

14 hours ago, dripley said:

If you have doubts about building the harness, I am pretty sure you can it. Another Eric question. And i assume from what you wrote you see how the the whole will be controled. It will operate just like oe.

I'll look at it some more and even if Eric has a harness I would like to build this. There's a lot of little things that can be done when you learn about them to keep your truck going. I'm learning as I go. The last time I did any serious work on a Dodge was 5 years. This will be good to get something productive done again. 

14 hours ago, IBMobile said:

The Bosch or mini type relay is common and can be purchased in any auto parts store.  Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor.   

 

This is a mini relay with suppressing resistor and mounting tab 

 

"Common in" refers to pin #30 where in this case the 12 volt power from the battery comes into the relay.   

Thank you I'll pick one up

[dripley]

I am pretty sure the one from air dog will NOT have the protective relay @IBMobilehas in his. Theirs is just a relay like the rest in the PDC.

[Greenlee]

On ‎9‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 12:45 PM, dripley said:

I am pretty sure the one from air dog will NOT have the protective relay @IBMobilehas in his. Theirs is just a relay like the rest in the PDC.

I printed the schematics out on the wiring harness that @IBMobile was kind enough to share with me. It's gives me a chance to study it more before I get the parts together. I ordered the draw straw and parts from Eric on Thursday afternoon and was expecting everything to be in this week, I don't know how he got them here so fast, arrived Saturday. What great service. 

[Greenlee]

On 9/15/2018 at 6:33 PM, 015point9 said:

I'll do a sump again when I can control road debris on the roads.  

 

Couple bulk head fittings drilled into top of module and push on fittings for me.  PVC pipe from ace hardware to suck from and airtight line so air doesn't get inside fuel line or fuel out.   And some holes drilled around lower part  of module.  Harbor freight step drill, 2, 6 and 10 o'clock position.  (I dont know about valve you post about.  I'm airdog df 100 and carter pump as backup, under back seat. JIC fittings at pump, with shut off valves so easy change out if ever needed) 

Lots of ways to do it and several pics on here, somewhere.  

Good luck.

 

Hey, I went back to this thread to find some additional info, I must have missed what your wrote, thank you, great ideas sorry it took so long to let you know.

On 9/19/2018 at 5:08 PM, dripley said:

Where is your pump mounted? On the block, stock location?

I'm sorry dripley, I didn't see the question you had added, it's on the block, Raptor 150. I'm still dealing with this truck and the draw straw. I just got it back before my surgery last week. This has been going on before Christmas with a local diesel shop. I wish I could have done it my self