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Towing without gauges


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3 hours ago, LiveOak said:

You are ready for head studs and twins for openers.  A bigger or more efficient intercooler and intake would help as well, not to mention a 5 inch straight pipe or mildly muffled exhaust.  A low restriction air filter like a BHAF would also help a good bit.  EGT's in that range are a solid indication to downshift to the next lower gear to keep rpms and airflow up.  

 

 

It's running a firepunk Trans, fleece Cheeta turbo, blue Chip pump, edge comp/MM3 tuner, head Studs, 7x11 SAC injectors, 4" exhaust, BHAF.

 

Runs and drives incredible. Wife nicknamed it BEAST.....it fits....

 

I've just read alot about EGTs and mine seem high empty. I have two EGT guages, one in manifold at #4 cyl and one in exhaust pipe about 6" after turbo. There is consistently 100-150° difference between the two. The 1100-1200° numbers I'm referring to are the manifold temps. So I guess if what I'm reading in various posts is exhaust pipe temp rather than exhaust manifold temp then I'm in the ballpark.

Edited by Max Tune
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27 minutes ago, Max Tune said:

So I guess if what I'm reading in various posts is exhaust pipe temp rather than exhaust manifold temp then I'm in the ballpark.

Someone correct me if I am wrong but the manifold temp is what to pay the most attention to so know whats happening inside the engine.

Edited by dripley
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But pistons aren't made out of aluminum, it's some sort of mix of alloys. I heard that our motors were designed to run 1200 continously and plenty of people got it to 1600-1800 for short time. Not saying it's the thing to do but it's been done. I usually try to stay below 1200 but before I knew much have towed up longer hills with 1200+ for a while, I now downshift and slowdown. Not just for engine but transmission too.

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

But pistons aren't made out of aluminum, it's some sort of mix of alloys. I heard that our motors were designed to run 1200 continously and plenty of people got it to 1600-1800 for short time. Not saying it's the thing to do but it's been done. I usually try to stay below 1200 but before I knew much have towed up longer hills with 1200+ for a while, I now downshift and slowdown. Not just for engine but transmission too.

 

Yes, they can hold those temps but I personally wouldn't push it past 1400°. 

 

Timing plays a huge role in cylinder temp vs manifold temp. A stock 04.5-07 can hit and hold 1450° and never have a cylinder temp issue, but a modified one can be at 1250° and have a much higher cylinder temp. 

 

1250° is my continuous limit with how my motor is tuned. 

Edited by AH64ID
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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

But pistons aren't made out of aluminum, it's some sort of mix of alloys. I heard that our motors were designed to run 1200 continously and plenty of people got it to 1600-1800 for short time. Not saying it's the thing to do but it's been done. I usually try to stay below 1200 but before I knew much have towed up longer hills with 1200+ for a while, I now downshift and slowdown. Not just for engine but transmission too.

I don't like to push beyond 1200. The piston oil cooling jets are what primarily keep the pistons from melting down in much higher EGT's but the piston oil cooling jets have their limits and wide ranging heat cycles like that are increasing the probability of cracking a head.  They are crack prone enough over the long term.  In applications such as this is where compound turbo chargers fill the best of both worlds with a great low end response and a great top end with minimal or no lag as well as keeping EGT's well in check.  They also do a lot to mitigate or almost eliminate black or any smoke for that matter if done right.  

 

What you are seeing as EGT on the exhaust manifold is very likely noticeably lower than what the piston top is actually seeing.  Hence the recommendations to be conservative with respect to the EGT's you generate.  

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On ‎11‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 6:42 AM, Marcus2000monster said:

Well I managed to pull to long steep grades with another 24 valve on a trailer in 6th gear and never pass 1100F! 

 

4.10's are a towing beast but sure do suck empty on the big highway:) I always figured 4.10's were somewhat hard on overdrive, in manual transmissions, due to the fact they will pull forever in top gear. The 3.55's will force a downshift, a good thing.

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On 12/1/2018 at 3:46 AM, NIsaacs said:

 

4.10's are a towing beast but sure do suck empty on the big highway:) I always figured 4.10's were somewhat hard on overdrive, in manual transmissions, due to the fact they will pull forever in top gear. The 3.55's will force a downshift, a good thing.

I don’t tow very often which is why I’m swapping in a set of 3:54s. I’m MPG and lower RPM hungry lol. I think the lower gear ratio with the 6 speed will be top notch. 

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2 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I don’t tow very often which is why I’m swapping in a set of 3:54s. I’m MPG and lower RPM hungry lol. I think the lower gear ratio with the 6 speed will be top notch. 

If your hungry for MPG you might want to consider trying a set of 245/70R 17 tires that are the same overall diameter as 245/75R 16 tires. If you still have the original 16" wheels around and mount some 245/75R 16s, it would give you a boost in MPG for certain along with more towing power too with 3.55s! 30.5 inch tires and 3.55s is a great combination!

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1 hour ago, Michaelsloft said:

If your hungry for MPG you might want to consider trying a set of 245/70R 17 tires that are the same overall diameter as 245/75R 16 tires. If you still have the original 16" wheels around and mount some 245/75R 16s, it would give you a boost in MPG for certain along with more towing power too with 3.55s! 30.5 inch tires and 3.55s is a great combination!

I do plan to lower tire size once I have the axles swapped. 

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