brake main line failure

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

so far the progress is:

 

all body lines and park brake cables removed.

under hood hard lines will get swapped out later (keep the abs stuff from corrosion)

brackets and such will get refurbished and painted with rustoleum and coated with reg paint

 

thanks to pepsi71ocean  for the SSTUBES suggestion, the kit i got has everything from under the hood to the axles (minus a couple brackets)

 

for now when i get all the parts ordered to put the truck back together only then will i run the lines and button it up then bleed brakes with the power bleeder. its a fairly simple task, just time consuming and with a back that is as messed up as congress it take even longer. but it will be back together.

[dripley]

3 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

so far the progress is:

 

all body lines and park brake cables removed.

under hood hard lines will get swapped out later (keep the abs stuff from corrosion)

brackets and such will get refurbished and painted with rustoleum and coated with reg paint

 

thanks to pepsi71ocean  for the SSTUBES suggestion, the kit i got has everything from under the hood to the axles (minus a couple brackets)

 

for now when i get all the parts ordered to put the truck back together only then will i run the lines and button it up then bleed brakes with the power bleeder. its a fairly simple task, just time consuming and with a back that is as messed up as congress it take even longer. but it will be back together.

If congress is involved l would imagine you will have good fuel pressure at the rear wheels.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

 

4 hours ago, dripley said:

If congress is involved l would imagine you will have good fuel pressure at the rear wheels.

my exhaust will have plenty of boost....

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

all parts ordered and awaiting shipment, then time to get to work on the truck yaay

[Mopar1973Man]

Be aware with all the COVID-19 crap going on the shipping might be slow. I've got stuff stuck in NY right now waiting to get here. Some stuff is coming in good time and other stuff is seriously getting hung up. Even stuff manufacture in USA. 

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

yeah, i expected that but the final parts will be here end of the week and i can get him back on the road with all new brakes and a resealed front axle!

 

i sourced from

advance auto

napa

sstubes.com<---good to work with

torqueking<----also good to work with

rock auto

 

 

then its on to the bmw for maintenance....

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

used my power siphon to empty the tank, friend came over and we dropped the tank. it was surprisingly light. removed old mainline on frame, installed new line on frame and reinstalled fuel tank. now to button up the connections and get working on the front axle reseal....

 

then when the correct cable arrives from nappy auto parts (correct box part number, wrong part in box) i can get the brakes reinstalled, power bled and finished. be done in a couple weeks...

 

*********************************************

does anyone have these clips handy? they are the anti vibration clips between the brake hardlines in the engine bay

 

Genuine Mopar Control Valve Clip 52008940

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mopar-Control-Valve-Clip-52008940/303476030711?epid=1927436362&hash=item46a894bcf7:g:f18AAOSwGPFePMuT

Edited May 10, 2020 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

so today i got the front dana 60 resealed and diff cover sealed up proper this time.   used allthread and a holesaw with the teeth cut off for the seal press.  worked like a champ! getting the diff out was tricky, a rag wedge between the pinion and ring gear broke it mostly free then some gentle love with a 5lb deadblow and a prybar got it out.  next to assemble the rear drums, cables and front axle, then run the rest of the brake lines, fill and power bleed, then before i put it on the road fill the front diff up (rtv will have cured well by then) and test it out. should be done by end of next week.... hopefully....

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

front axles installed and hubs lubed with antisieze and rtv to mitigate as much corrosion as possible, it worked last time. everything torqued and just need cotter pins.  tomorrow is install front rotors and calipers, then assemble the rear brake sets.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

rear drums fully installed, rustoleum primed and painted to mitigate rust, parking brake adjusted initially and it works!!!!!!!!  pedal gets hard about half way like it should.

 

all that is left is install brake hardlines, install hose clamps on filler neck tubes and tighten fuel tank straps then once my adapter arrives put brake fluid in and power bleed! once bled ill readjust parking brake to get it where it should be.

Edited May 19, 2020 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[Dieselfuture]

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

yesterday i got all the mainlines on the axles and in the engine bay attached and secured along with the braided soft lines front back. had to work the bleeders out of the calipers with some heat and a 6pt socket, then chase threads with a tap and die, they are like new now.  all i got to do is put 3 hose clamps on the filler neck tubes, fill the front diff with fluid, fill brakes and power bleed when the adapter gets here (another story on its own...)

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

today, filled the front diff, took 8 pints total. greased all balljoints, steering linkages and steering brace bearing. torqued steering tie rods, installed new batteries buttoned up the fuel filler hoses. 

 

put 12 gallons of fuel in, started him up, took a few seconds to prime since i had the lines off and drained (the the fuelboss) once it got fuel it lit up and idled smooth. started testing brakes at pressure while running and on stands. abs brake was still lit so i checked for any weeps/leaks. found the rear line coming off the proportioning valve needs to be tightened some more and the banjo bolts on the front calipers needed more tightening (never overtighten, torque till it holds and doesnt leak or they break).  once those were good i shut the truck down and restarted, normal lights cycled and the abs brake cycled twice as it balanced itself out, then cleared and hasnt come back.

 

tomorrow i take him off the stands and test drive for safety check and ensure parking brake actually holds lol

 

 

now to clean the garage.....   

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

ok so when i installed the drums, i cleaned them well on the braking surface with brake cleaner. everything went together correctly, the parking levers are in correct and the main parking cable link is adjusted to "take out slack" to where within a couple inches the parking lever really starts to bite good.  ive only put about 20 miles on the new shows and drums and i can only get the parking brakes to hold on a incline either facing up or down about 80-90%, basically the truck still will not completely hold its own weight with parking brake.

 

how long will it take to bed the shoes into the drums and get them to hold? the star wheel is adjusted properly to where the shoes start grabbing with no brake or parking brake applied and the cables are adjusted properly. it will hold good enough on level ground to almost stall the engine but i remember when the parking brakes would hold the truck by themselves on an incline with no issues.

 

and so its known, i have new:

shoes

shoe springs

cables

wheel cylinders

parking brake levers i refurbished as i cant find them anywhere

 

any help is appreciated.

Edited May 28, 2020 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[wil440]

Don't forget, there's a good chance the shoe surface isn't fully contacting the drum yet until fully bed in, may only be contacting the drum at the cylinder end of the shoes for a while, a couple of re adjusts should sort that out, also friction material won't be at its best yet

[Haggar]

Like Wil said.   Did you happen to check the curvature of the shoes to the drums?   I always take my shoes and test fit them in the drums.  You will almost always see that either the middle hits first (so you spread the shoes out some) or the ends hit first (so you squeeze them closed a bit).  What you are looking for is the complete surface of the shoe to contact the drum simultaneously. 

 

There is a primary shoe (short) and secondary (long)  the primary goes toward the front of the vehicle.

 

Did you have the drums turned or was there a wear lip?  I have had instances where the wear lip contacted the shoes, so you get some dragging, so you think the adjustment is correct, but the surface is really small (until it beds in). 

 

It might be worth a peek at one side to see if you see something odd in the wear pattern.

 

GL  HTH
 

Hag

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

new shoes and new drums,  the orientation is correct.  im betting they just need to fully bed in. but they hold 90% on a slope instead of not working at all like before hahaha   i can use them on flat surfaces now.  ill keep driving it and report back, i will check star wheel adjuster too for any wear play needing to be taken up.

 

i didnt think to check the curvature of the shoe to drum which makes sense.

Edited May 28, 2020 by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

[Haggar]

Sorry, I didn't catch that you had new drums.   The curves should be close then. 

 

Well, stay on top of adjustment.  The "automatic" adjusters work sometimes...  that is the best that I can say.  They only work in reverse btw.  So if you can, find a flat empty parking lot and do a lot of backing and abrupt stops. 

 

only other thing I can think of is, do both parking brakes grab simultaneously?  If one is way ahead of the other, you will get a firm park brake pedal, but only getting one side trying to hold.

 

Good luck! 

You have it so close!

Hag

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

so i took the slack out of the star wheels this morning from things settling, got things tight. a bit too tight (got the drums hot enough to smoke a bit) BUT the shoes are bedded in now and the brakes are now as grabby as micheal jackson at a daycare.  just a toe on the brakes and this things STOPS!!!!!   and since the hour long drive each way today, the parking brakes now hold on the incline!!!!!

 

after 10 years of crap/no parking brakes, 5 of which the rear brakes just didnt work....  i have full stopping power and parking brakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

beers for everyone

[hdpwipmonkey]

7 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

so i took the slack out of the star wheels this morning from things settling, got things tight. a bit too tight (got the drums hot enough to smoke a bit) BUT the shoes are bedded in now and the brakes are now as grabby as micheal jackson at a daycare.  just a toe on the brakes and this things STOPS!!!!!   and since the hour long drive each way today, the parking brakes now hold on the incline!!!!!

 

after 10 years of crap/no parking brakes, 5 of which the rear brakes just didnt work....  i have full stopping power and parking brakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

beers for everyone