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So if this is wrong section move please.

 

I had a main brake line failure today, thankfully while teaching nephew manual transmission. he was standing on the brake and thankfully caused the fault which would have been very bad had i been at speed.

 

it is the steel main line along driver frame rail leading to the rear brake valve. all rubber lines still look good but im gonna redo ALL brake lines steel and rubber to have a fresh system.

 

 

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Sstubes.com would be my go to, I’ve use them on my 95 1500 and a few other vehicles without complaint. 
Since these are pre-bent lines, some do take finesse to fit properly, but not much. the main line that runs the frame usually comes in an oval about 4’ long, just smooth it out by hand and by the time it’s put on the frame you can’t tell it was ever shipped in a box. 

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Posted (edited)

my truck specific is 2001 quad cab, long bed, drum, rear 2wheel antilock (rear axle) single rear wheel so i presume its the dana 80?

 

ive still yet to figure out if my rear is a 80 hybrid or 70. its the HO engine, NV5600 tranny, single wheels

 

i looked at the glovebox code list (barely can read it)

front axle DJF 5200 (dana 60 im sure)

ratio AMD (i think 3.55?)

rear axle DRL and i see an 8000 at the end (dana 80?)

 

ok i took pics and compared them, i do have a dana 80 rear.

 

specs

https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/dana-80-fluid.html

 

 

 

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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Posted (edited)

found this site

 

https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

 

which gave me this (shortened version)

Vehicle Description 2001 DODGE RAM 2500 P/U QUAD CAB

 

Dana M60/248MM Front Axle

Shift-on-the-Fly,241HD Transfer Case

3.55 Rear Axle Ratio

Dana M80 Rear Axle

 

all i am finding for these kits are for my truck with a dana70 axle...  im gonna have to go to the dodge shop to get part numbers

 

 
Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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I wrote up an article about this. I have the website that I bought them from. They give you all of options to choose from.

 

 

Read the article, and follow it, there are parts for or trucks you can't get, so don't throw it all out first.

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Last year I blew the front to back brake line (runs along the frame rail behind the fuel tank). Luckily I was rolling to a slow stop when it happened, and I was able to get the truck home using downshifting to slow down.

 

Nothing to mess with. I noticed a few other rusty brake lines and decided to replace all brake lines and hoses.

 

I got the epoxy coated brake lines from napa. I cut, , custom bent and double flared them, then spray painted again.

 

Years ago I installed full stainless steel lines on my restored 62 Ford Falcon. Looks great, but I had to send out the lines to get double flared. I couldn't do the double flare with my brake flare kit,  wouldnt work.  The stainless is to tough to work with.   If I had the time I'd do it again for my Dodge truck but I had to get it back up and running in a hurry.

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thanks for the information everyone, i will be putting together parts when i get the $ to do so and after this pandemic is over with in a few months.

On 3/20/2020 at 7:19 PM, pepsi71ocean said:

I wrote up an article about this. I have the website that I bought them from. They give you all of options to choose from.

 

 

Read the article, and follow it, there are parts for or trucks you can't get, so don't throw it all out first.

thank you so much! i believe this is the one i need.

2001 ex cab long bed 4wd D80 single wheel axle RWABS

 

https://www.sstubes.com/collections/brake-and-hose/products/blh76_complete_brake_line_and_hose_kit

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

well this brake job just opened up to a complete brake and bearing overhaul.

 

front driver unit hub is bad, driver rear (original bearing) is kinda crunchy.

 

all bearings front rear will be replaced, all parking brake hardware will be replaced along with parking brake cables.

all brake lines and hardware will be replaced (got the sstubes kit in)

the rear ubolts and bolt plates (under the axle) will be replaced (rust)

drums will be replaced (front discs are good)

shoes and pads will be replaced...

 

while im at it im going to replace the front axle seals too... joy

 

im already over $2000 in parts :neutral:

 

im gonna be stimulating the economy big time come next week...

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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haha im glad im getting it, i need it.

 

so far  the front end is apart now, im glad i did the antiseize and red rtv to seal it in when installing the unit bearing, been in there for 10 years most in colorado winters and it took 3 light whacks of the BFH and it fell out.

 

spicer HD non-serviceable ujoints still good both sides front axle

serviceable balljoints both sides still good

serviceable tierod balljoints still good

 

just need to get a couple 12pt HUB to KNUCKLE 14mm bolts as they are "stripped" and dont want to reuse them again, the rest im going to clean up and reuse, they are still good.

 

tomorrow removal of rear brake hardware then on to brake line removal and disassemble front diff to replace the seals ive been holding off for years...  (and the cover needs a reseal)

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so far the progress is:

 

all body lines and park brake cables removed.

under hood hard lines will get swapped out later (keep the abs stuff from corrosion)

brackets and such will get refurbished and painted with rustoleum and coated with reg paint

 

thanks to pepsi71ocean  for the SSTUBES suggestion, the kit i got has everything from under the hood to the axles (minus a couple brackets)

 

for now when i get all the parts ordered to put the truck back together only then will i run the lines and button it up then bleed brakes with the power bleeder. its a fairly simple task, just time consuming and with a back that is as messed up as congress it take even longer. but it will be back together.

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3 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

so far the progress is:

 

all body lines and park brake cables removed.

under hood hard lines will get swapped out later (keep the abs stuff from corrosion)

brackets and such will get refurbished and painted with rustoleum and coated with reg paint

 

thanks to pepsi71ocean  for the SSTUBES suggestion, the kit i got has everything from under the hood to the axles (minus a couple brackets)

 

for now when i get all the parts ordered to put the truck back together only then will i run the lines and button it up then bleed brakes with the power bleeder. its a fairly simple task, just time consuming and with a back that is as messed up as congress it take even longer. but it will be back together.

If congress is involved l would imagine you will have good fuel pressure at the rear wheels.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Be aware with all the COVID-19 crap going on the shipping might be slow. I've got stuff stuck in NY right now waiting to get here. Some stuff is coming in good time and other stuff is seriously getting hung up. Even stuff manufacture in USA. 

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