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Rocker panels cab corners


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I once drove across Iowa and passed a fellow Dodge I thought looked weird. There was a huge rust hole above the rear wheel, as I got closer, I could see the other side of the bed through the hole. Then as I was next to it, the other side was the same so I could see the corn growing in the field next to the interstate THROUGH the basketball sized holes in the bed of the truck.

 

And here I've been burning off all my waste oil....

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Most of the pups out here play hard go get there truck sloppy with mud and never wash it. After a awhile the salt gets into the mud and accelerates the rusting process. Just about keeping the truck clean of mud and all drain holes open and flowing. Less water can stand in the bottom of the rocker panels the better off you are. 

 

Old story but when we moved to Idaho we only had the 1973 Dodge Charger and the 1978 Dodge Magnum XE. On the Magnum had a drain hole plug with body sealant. So the rocker panel on the driver side just below the rear window glass was rusting out. I had a excellent body man next door. He crease the metal so it was stepped and not sure what kind of fastener or glue he used but no welding. This is the best way to do it so there is no burnt metal that will rot from inside out. 

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3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

He crease the metal so it was stepped and not sure what kind of fastener or glue he used but no welding. This is the best way to do it so there is no burnt metal that will rot from inside out. 

I've debated on using panel adhesive instead of welding myself, not sure what I'll do yet, but it makes sense if you have everything painted and then stick new panels on then it won't rust on inside where you weld, otherwise how do you get in there to paint. Link with video above shows useing a tube with funky fitting on the end, spray is kind of like our injectors sideways and then attach it to the spray can and as you paint you pull back on the hose. The only problem outer rocker panel is so close to the inner you're not going to fit much in there, and going through the back where the plugs are is not going to reach the outer layer either. So yeah adhesive does make more sense, plus they say it's stronger than welding.

Edited by Dieselfuture
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There certainly is a way to glue panels on without welding, used to glue entire roof panels on, quarter pnls. rust repair patches, etc.  The stuff is called 3m metal bond, there are different brands but I always preferred 3m, no odor, sandable, it's a epoxy tube, and as a matter of fact I have some in my garage right now. You can't even imagine how many use's I can find for the stuff! I can't live without it!  You can buy at paint supply store or amazon.

We tested in vice to see if you could get it to separate, the metal tore first. You can get it to release with a torch.

The glue itself is corrosion protection.

For a patch you want to grind down to bare metal around both edges, and opposite mate surface, then cover with the glue, either clamp and wait to set, or if there's no way to clamp drill 1/8 in. holes and screw, after it sets remove screws and fill.

 The applicator gun is quite expensive, the body/ paint supply store will usually rent you one or you can just push out the bottom with some big sockets and mix with putty knife or?

 My advice if you want/need some great glue to end all, get some.

 

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 A friend of mine used that stuff on his vehicles. He says it's much better than welding and perfect for someone that doesn't have the proper welder or experience to weld sheet metal panels. That's takes time and patience. And as mentioned, you won't be putting the heat to the pieces which will burn off any corrosion protection that was sprayed on prior to install.

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25 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

You could probably buy an inexpensive box brake and make them yourself. Would likely need to make them in two pieces because of length. Your a handy guy. I think you can do it. 

May work with thin gauge steel, I was thinking 1/8 for durability like rock sliders :drool: not that I need them. Was also thinking using square tube like a 3x3 or 3.5x3.5" but there's always but... Not sure what I'll do yet once I get old ones off, how bad will it be, I can only imagine :think: 

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29 minutes ago, dripley said:

I have always had a vision of me sitting in my truck with it rusted into pile with the Cummins still running. Now l could do it with rockers still shining too.:cool:

Maybe IBMobile has a picture although he's been a bit lax on that lately.

 

You can always tell where Dripley has parked by the red rusty streaks running toward the parking lot catch basin. :thumb1:

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6 minutes ago, dieseldon said:

If dodge had just put proper corrosion protection behind their sheet metal they would probably last a lifetime anyhow, I sure hope that $10-$15 profit helps them sleep at night!

Wealth acquired by vanity shall not last.

 

Sunday lesson for today :thumb1:

Edited by JAG1
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14 minutes ago, dieseldon said:

If dodge had just put proper corrosion protection behind their sheet metal they would probably last a lifetime anyhow, I sure hope that $10-$15 profit helps them sleep at night!

Unfortunately for us it's not in big corporation agenda anylonger, most higher ups I've spoken on this subject, I've been told that everything is aimed at first owner or 10 years max, not like back in good ol days where things were meant to last. Doesn't even matter on what country we're talking about really. Seems to be world wide disease these days. Only few select companies are making good products still but of course not many can afford that. 

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58 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Unfortunately for us it's not in big corporation agenda anylonger, most higher ups I've spoken on this subject, I've been told that everything is aimed at first owner or 10 years max, not like back in good ol days where things were meant to last. Doesn't even matter on what country we're talking about really. Seems to be world wide disease these days. Only few select companies are making good products still but of course not many can afford that. 

So unfortunate, take a look on the back side of say mercedes benz, volvo, some other Euro's, caked with waxy corrosion protection.

Too bad American companies designed disposability into their products.

I still would never own one of those over engineered Euro nightmares tho! 🤑

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1 hour ago, dieseldon said:

So unfortunate, take a look on the back side of say mercedes benz, volvo, some other Euro's, caked with waxy corrosion protection.

Too bad American companies designed disposability into their products.

I still would never own one of those over engineered Euro nightmares tho! 🤑

Lol guess you make a good point. I have a vw jetta Diesel I got as a run around car. It does have an underbody coating for corrosion and even came with a 10year warranty for rust, if any shoes up any dealer fixes it free. Still I say nothing is designed to last as long as it used to be. I'll let you all know when my first rust spot forms on vw, it's a 2013 with a 2.0l and 6 speed. Wouldn't of gotten it otherwise. Seen over 50mpg in summer more than once if I drove nice, mid 40s in winter.

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9 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

May work with thin gauge steel, I was thinking 1/8 for durability like rock sliders :drool: not that I need them. Was also thinking using square tube like a 3x3 or 3.5x3.5" but there's always but... Not sure what I'll do yet once I get old ones off, how bad will it be, I can only imagine :think: 

You could just use that panel adhesive to glue on more beer cans!

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Speaking of iron oxide...

 

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IMAG0151.jpg.f3334f8634ec6b9ed4642aacd760bc28.jpg

 

Been restoring this since I was about 10. 3000lbs of steel replaced. The side sills and floor have been completely replaced. Stainless steel cars do not rust out. The floors fall out from 40 years of roof leaks. Stainless would likely last longer than the truck. There are many rolling around pushing 80 with, relatively, no issues.

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