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Sounds like healthy batteries, clean terminals, and good cables along with a healthy stock alternator works for you. I might just do the ground mod (my cables and terminals/connectors are new) and replace the diodes. Also guess I’ll check the brushes. The alternator that’s on it now was a brand new Denso I put on 3 years ago and has about 25K miles on it. But I admit I did push it really hard with the winch the other night...the last pull was a doozy and after 7 hours in the snow and at 1:30am I wasn’t stopping and giving the winch or the truck a break. Lesson learned I guess. 

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8 hours ago, Andyba20 said:

Sounds like healthy batteries, clean terminals, and good cables along with a healthy stock alternator works for you.

 

The biggest thing was I been reducing loads (mechanical and electrical) on the vehicle completely. Electrically, I switched over to HID headlight which are half the load (35 watts - 2.9 Amps) but 4 times brighter lighting (4,000 lumens vs 860 lumen halogen) and my driving lights are 4,000 lumen LED which draw a mere (18 watts - 1.5 Amps). The rest of the exterior lights are swapped over to LED. I've got the interior light for cab done but not for the cluster yet. Hence I don't need a monster alternator now being most of the electrical loads have been reduced. Heck just the red LEDs in the taillights are only 0.5 Watts for a mere 0.041 amps...

 

What do I need a monster alternator for? :shrug:

 

 

I use to run four 100 watt aircraft landing lights. These draw a bit over 20 amps. Then it was set up for 2 on hi beam and 2 on lo beam. Then got into the silverstar headlights which were pretty hoot and draw quite a bit of power on hi beams. 

 

Just remember bigger alternator, bigger loads on the engine. Again I'm aiming to reduce all loads on the engine and electrical system not add to it. Less loads at any time mean better MPG's and going farther on a gallon of fuel.

 

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22 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

The biggest thing was I been reducing loads (mechanical and electrical) on the vehicle completely. Electrically, I switched over to HID headlight which are half the load (35 watts - 2.9 Amps) but 4 times brighter lighting (4,000 lumens vs 860 lumen halogen) and my driving lights are 4,000 lumen LED which draw a mere (18 watts - 1.5 Amps). The rest of the exterior lights are swapped over to LED. I've got the interior light for cab done but not for the cluster yet. Hence I don't need a monster alternator now being most of the electrical loads have been reduced. Heck just the red LEDs in the taillights are only 0.5 Watts for a mere 0.041 amps...

 

What do I need a monster alternator for? :shrug:

 

 

I use to run four 100 watt aircraft landing lights. These draw a bit over 20 amps. Then it was set up for 2 on hi beam and 2 on lo beam. Then got into the silverstar headlights which were pretty hoot and draw quite a bit of power on hi beams. 

 

Just remember bigger alternator, bigger loads on the engine. Again I'm aiming to reduce all loads on the engine and electrical system not add to it. Less loads at any time mean better MPG's and going farther on a gallon of fuel.

 

 

 

Doesn't do much good for the OP when he's concerned about winching. Not much you can do there to reduce the draw, so that's what he needs a bigger alternator over. 

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 To add to @Mopar1973Man's  post, if the OP were to switch over to all LED lighting it would free up amps to help run the winch. That way the load of the big alternator isn't a constant mechanical load on the engine. If one used the winch frequently yes then a bigger alternator would be the ticket but for a few times a year it may be a wiser choice to reduce load in other places to free up some amperage to operate the winch plus enjoy the brighter output of the LED lighting and the safety factor it also adds as well.

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Great info from all of you, I appreciate it. I have some Rigid Led cubes on the front bumper that throw plenty of  yellow light so I can always turn off the headlights and KC’s. I tried an H3 type led in the KC housing and it just wasn’t near as bright. I’m a huge fan of LED technology but I will say I haven’t found an LED yet that will outshine that 100W halogen spot light pair (for the size). I’ll also go ahead and swap out led bulbs in the tail lights and blinkers. I have the Daniel Stern kit for my headlights and I have been extremely happy with that, one of the best mods I’ve done to this truck so I’ll probably keep it as is. 

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I’ve been running a Nations 180 amp alternator for about 3 years now. Switched to it because of high AC noise from the factory unit. Was having TC lockup issues. I don’t have a winch. My Pacbreak does run off a small air compressor. I haven’t had any issues with it. Just FYI. 

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3 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

 To add to @Mopar1973Man's  post, if the OP were to switch over to all LED lighting it would free up amps to help run the winch. That way the load of the big alternator isn't a constant mechanical load on the engine. If one used the winch frequently yes then a bigger alternator would be the ticket but for a few times a year it may be a wiser choice to reduce load in other places to free up some amperage to operate the winch plus enjoy the brighter output of the LED lighting and the safety factor it also adds as well.

 

While that would technically help, it would be such a small effect that it would likely be imperceptible to the alternator. 

 

While you're drawing 350A a change of 5-10A isn't going to do much for the alternator as it will be at 100% load either way. 

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11 minutes ago, dripley said:

Will a larger alternator put that much more load on the engine if in dailey driving? I know it will using a winch or other large draw devices.

 

Within reason, no it won't. As long as you're not talking a much heavier rotor, which is likely not going to happen  at a perceivable amount on these trucks. 

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I think you should try to isolate the winching battery from the alternator.

 

When you start winching, it will pull amps from where it can get them.  If for some stupid reason (or the batteries are too dead) it will start pulling directly from the alternator.    (I have my dump trailer set up with a relay that disconnects the truck aux power that charges the battery.  when I power the dump up,  it disconnects the truck aux)

 

The best set up I did on most of my 4xs was add a battery with diode isolation.  It would charge the extra battery but would not creep back and directly load the truck battery or alternator.   Since we start with two batteries.... it is gonna be tougher, though you might be able to do the relay (it would be a starter solenoid for that many amps) to separate the battery from the system.

 

Good Luck

Hag

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18 minutes ago, Haggar said:

When you start winching, it will pull amps from where it can get them.  If for some stupid reason (or the batteries are too dead) it will start pulling directly from the alternator.  

 

Yup exactly. Hence why my landlords truck blew the 150 Amp alternator fuse I installed while running his winch. Even though the alternator is only 136 Amp. As the batteries dropped in voltage being totally wore out it increase the current from a already tapped out alternator and blew the fuse out. Again batteries have more of the role of "storage of energy" to be redelivered to the electrical loads. Alternator is only to recharge the batteries NOT to sustain high loads. Being like myself got two WalMart batteries at 810 CCA that is 1,620 CCA if that can't sustain a winch for a time of pulling then I would say batteries are not doing there job. Even stock was 750 CCA for 1,500 CCA total.

 

 ANL Fuse 150A 150 Amp For Car Vehicle Marine Audio Video System Gold 2 Pack (150 Amp)

 

Yup, Even with 136 Amp stock alternator and weak batteries you can blow a 150 Amp fuse or circuit breaker. Just because the batteries are weak or no longer have the capacity for said loads. Again like even the rebuilder down in Nampa, ID told me the alternators are not to blame but weak connections, bad grounds, and weak batteries. 

 

 

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