VP44 DAP

[Red Rambler]

11 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Truck doesn't care about no power.

haha, I didnt think so, anything I need to reset upon getting it going again, the APPS, and my clock!! 

[Me78569]

just those 2

[dripley]

And the batteries will be ok for a while, just put them somewhere warm. No telling how long the sit on rack in the stores.

[Red Rambler]

14 hours ago, dripley said:

And the batteries will be ok for a while, just put them somewhere warm. No telling how long the sit on rack in the stores.

Yep, I checked them and they are at 12.3 and 12.2 volts just sitting inside. The date sticker on them both say 1/21. 

[Mopar1973Man]

I would put a small trickle charge on them over night. Both battery are down in charge. 

[Red Rambler]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I would put a small trickle charge on them over night. Both battery are down in charge. 

I don’t have a trickle charger, got one you would recommend? I was looking the other day for one to use when I knew the truck would sit for a few days. Do they make one that would hit both batteries at once? 
 

This is the one I was thinking about

https://www.batterysaver.com/store/p16/3015-lcd.html

 

edit: the battery saver shows 0 Celcius, 32F as the working temp range so that isn’t gonna work. 

Edited February 13, 2021 by Red Rambler

[Dieselfuture]

11 minutes ago, Red Rambler said:

I don’t have a trickle charger, got one you would recommend? I was looking the other day for one to use when I knew the truck would sit for a few days. Do they make one that would hit both batteries at once? 

I had an older mk345pc in my boat and one bank crapped out when we were in canada fishing and generator got hit by lightning at night when it was charging our boats. So later I got a 4 bank charger and been using this one in garage, does equalization mode and can charge different types of batteries. Not cheap but I couldn't use in boat anymore and had a reason to upgrade to 4 bank. I just put alligator clips on the ends to charge whatever I need, it's a maintener too, just leave it plugged in and when fully charged it becomes a trickle charger that comes on automatically. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ACPM8O8/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

[Red Rambler]

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I had an older mk345pc in my boat and one bank crapped out when we were in canada fishing and generator got hit by lightning at night when it was charging our boats. So later I got a 4 bank charger and been using this one in garage, does equalization mode and can charge different types of batteries. Not cheap but I couldn't use in boat anymore and had a reason to upgrade to 4 bank. I just put alligator clips on the ends to charge whatever I need, it's a maintener too, just leave it plugged in and when fully charged it becomes a trickle charger that comes on automatically. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ACPM8O8/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

Looks like a good option for sure. That 3 bank is $$ but would for sure do the job.  I’m a little low on truck funds right now after the VP, 2 batteries, and the sending unit. 
 

this one looks decent, and in my price range. 
NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V And 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, And Battery Desulfator With Temperature Compensation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CDPB48DB1BRA8RBB3CBY

 

or

 

NOCO Genius GEN5X2, 2-Bank, 10-Amp (5-Amp Per Bank) Fully-Automatic Smart Marine Charger, 12V Onboard Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G3STB1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_52C9ZXZ8831SYKJRR9V1

Edited February 13, 2021 by Red Rambler

[Dieselfuture]

Yeah I'm not sure if I'd spend that kind of money on a charger if I didn't have one already and needed at least a 3 bank on the boat, so I spent more to get the 4 bank. Would of gotten at least a 3 bank back in there anyway so I decided to spend $80 to get the 4th bank. Decisions decisions, hope the new one lasts as long as the boat 

[Red Rambler]

Well, tired of tracking my mileage and filling fuel based on mileage. Pulled my tank today, not terrible, but not fun either. Top of my sending unit was filthy. One issue I ran into was the tabs on my electrical connector. The tabs to release the connector broke immediately so I ended up cutting the wires, and will have to solder/heat shrink the wires back together. I fought that connector more than the fuel line quick connectors. Gonna finish up tomorrow and put it back in  

 

and this jerk...

[Red Rambler]

Is there anything that has to be reset after changing a sending unit as my fuel gauge is on empty and my fuel light is on after replacing my sending unit. I did cut my old electrical connector of and soldered a new one on because my tabs are broke. I’m currently stumped. I had the batteries unhooked while changing my sending unit. 

[Dieselfuture]

9 hours ago, Red Rambler said:

Is there anything that has to be reset after changing a sending unit as my fuel gauge is on empty and my fuel light is on after replacing my sending unit.

Not that I'm aware of, I had mine out few times and never did anything special. You can use an OHM meter to check the sending unit make sure it works, if it does then it's in your wiring.

[JAG1]

When the retaining clip tab breaks off that locks the electrical connector,  just use zip strips going between the wires around the connector and the small tower the connector goes too. For added insurance I add a second zip strip that ties to the oem fuel supply tower. Don't go to tight just no slack is all.

 

I also do the pull test on zip strips.... If I can break them by hand they don't get used for holding things together. Okay for wiring though, I try to find the good expensive ones.

 

Edited March 25, 2021 by JAG1

[wil440]

3 hours ago, JAG1 said:

When the retaining clip tab breaks off that locks the electrical connector,  just use zip strips going between the wires around the connector and the small tower the connector goes too. For added insurance I add a second zip strip that ties to the oem fuel supply tower. Don't go to tight just no slack is all.

 

I also do the pull test on zip strips.... If I can break them by hand they don't get used for holding things together. Okay for wiring though, I try to find the good expensive ones.

 

Mine is also held together with zip ties as my tabs broke off 

[JAG1]

That's right 'Zip Ties'.    Thank you Wil.

[wil440]

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

That's right 'Zip Ties'.    Thank you Wil.

your welcome.... 

[Red Rambler]

6 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Not that I'm aware of, I had mine out few times and never did anything special. You can use an OHM meter to check the sending unit make sure it works, if it does then it's in your wiring.

So the connector has 4 pins on it, you know which two pins I should OHM check? Also, would I need the sending unit out of the tank, to move the float? 

Edited March 25, 2021 by Red Rambler

[Dieselfuture]

2 hours ago, Red Rambler said:

So the connector has 4 pins on it, you know which two pins I should OHM check? Also, would I need the sending unit out of the tank, to move the float? 

I don't know which two are for level, I would try different combinations, but yes you would need the sender out so you can move the float. Unless you knew the resistance values of full and empty you could go off that too, depending on what you have in the tank. 

[Red Rambler]

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I don't know which two are for level, I would try different combinations, but yes you would need the sender out so you can move the float. Unless you knew the resistance values of full and empty you could go off that too, depending on what you have in the tank. 

My sheet included with my unit says 219.6 ohms, and 19.9 ohms..so 219.6 Empty, and 19.9 full. I will see what I can get figured out..I really dont want to pull it again but if its not working then im going to have to anyways. Not sure how my wiring could be bad, I guess my next option would be to  cut my wires and solder them again? if my unit checks out fine. 

[Red Rambler]

It’s the middle two pins. I tested my old one first and it ranges from 20.3 to 150.7, and should range higher, but stops at 150.7. Thus telling me I have a 1/4 of a tank, when I truly don’t. My new sending unit will not read at all on any combination of pins.