Teardown and Rebuild

[JOHNFAK]

On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 10:15 PM, TFaoro said:

That directed at me or Mike? I've considered rebuilding mine and selling it....

Mike ... but both.

 

Just mean that's a way to learn and also earn $$ to make it cost effective for future.

 

 

[TFaoro]

Making some progress. I'm in the process of building the crossmember and will update later 

[TFaoro]

So lots of info. I've now got everything bolted up and am waiting on driveshafts to be built / modified and finding a plug for the reverse switch.

 

Now, the build. The first thing we did was stuff the new south bend clutch in. It's the "same" as the clutch I had before, just made for the g56. We then decided to take a few measurements of the transmission and transfer cases. The shifter location on the g56 is almost identical to the nv4500, so there was no need to cut the floor . We then jacked up the front of the motor and attempted to stab the transmission... No go. The small loop on the top of the trans (You can see it at the front of the picture I already posted) kept hitting the pinch weld. So I cut it off. It then went in nice and easy, like it should. With it bolted up and supported we took the truck to the lift and took it to the top.

From there we started on the transfer case. The np241 has a "block" of vacuum lines running into it to actuate the CAD. Turns out the 4x4 light on the nv271 works the exact same, so we were able to screw that in. The shift lever is also identical, so we bolted that up. We then stuck the Tcase in to check fitment. 

 

 

 

It's close to the frame, but it doesn't hit!. 

 

 

Then onto support the aluminum beast. We were able to use the stock support and bolt it directly to the g56 rather than using the adapter the nv4500 uses. 

Here you can see we cut the center section out because it had to drop around 3/4 of an inch. We also had to cut part of the left side to make clearance for the driveshaft. 

 

From there we used 1/4in plate drop the center section. We also made a 45 degree cuts to make strength for the new plate. Where it flattens out we used a rosebud to heat it up and beat it flat. It was the same process to plate the section cut out for the driveshaft. Here you can see some beautiful beads laid down by my father. I believe I'm a good welder, but he is an excellent welder. 

 

 

 

 

From there we bolted everything up tight. The next step was mounting the skid plate. Because of the monster transfer case it had to drop an inch and the nut that mounted the plate had to be removed. I didn't get any good pictured, but I also ground the spacer on the bottom and welded a nut on to hold the plate. 

It sits lower, but I feel having a skid plate is a necessity with what I use the truck for. 

 

 

 

 

Now I'm searching for the plug to make the reverse lights work. The drivveshafts should be done by the end of the week and hopefully she'll be rolling again friday. 

[Me78569]

Awesome man.  Making great progress.

 

 

 

 I patched a tire this weekend......

Edited May 2, 2016 by Me78569

[TFaoro]

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

Awesome man.  Making great progress.

 

 

 

 I patched a tire this weekend......

Wish I was just patching a tire....

 

Is there any way you can look for that plug for me? After 5 hours last night I gave up....

Closest thing I came up with: http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/g56-6-speed-reverse-light-switch-clone.html

Edited May 2, 2016 by TFaoro

[Me78569]

I dunno when I will have time to look, swamped this week.  I would just buy the pigtail, cost less in time at this point.

[notlimah]

And here I thought I had to go outside the box a bit on my track bar install! 

 

Looking real good! I now no longer believe I can do this swap haha

[TFaoro]

41 minutes ago, notlimah said:

And here I thought I had to go outside the box a bit on my track bar install! 

 

Looking real good! I now no longer believe I can do this swap haha

Careful thought process and taking your time goes a long way! I could have scabbed something together in a couple hours, but I like things done right.

 

The swap really wasn't that bad. If you have the proper tools, anything can be done!

[notlimah]

Yea true. I'm the same way.

[Royal Squire]

Couldn't you have used the crossmember off a 6 speed truck?

[TFaoro]

5 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

Couldn't you have used the crossmember off a 6 speed truck?

I believe the g56 sits much different than the 5600, but I wouldn't swear to it

 

Got the driveshaft prices... Rear is going to be $140. They made me a deal because I just had it balanced. The front one needs 3 u joints, a cardan joint kit, and a new (longer) shaft put in. That's costing me $330. It hurts but I should be set for a while. 

[CSM]

19 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

I believe the g56 sits much different than the 5600, but I wouldn't swear to it

 

Got the driveshaft prices... Rear is going to be $140. They made me a deal because I just had it balanced. The front one needs 3 u joints, a cardan joint kit, and a new (longer) shaft put in. That's costing me $330. It hurts but I should be set for a while. 

 

Bills was 125 for cut and balance.  

[Hawkez]

36 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

It hurts but I should be set for a while. 

Famous last words!!!

[BBHD]

54 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

 

Got the driveshaft prices... Rear is going to be $140. They made me a deal because I just had it balanced. The front one needs 3 u joints, a cardan joint kit, and a new (longer) shaft put in. That's costing me $330. It hurts but I should be set for a while. 

That sounds decent. I had a new front driveshaft built for my old truck last year at drive train specialties for $275

[Royal Squire]

I'm sorry, I thought you were swapping in a 5600. What is the G56 out of?

[TFaoro]

4 hours ago, Hawkez said:

Famous last words!!!

Don't put that on me!! I'm all out of truck money now! 

45 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

I'm sorry, I thought you were swapping in a 5600. What is the G56 out of?

A 2005 2500. Same with the transfer case. Transmission has 60k and the transfer case has a fresh rebuild

[TFaoro]

The swap is DONE!!!!

Got the driveshafts stuck in, and fluid in the transfer case. 

I got the new hydraulics installed, but they must be different on the 3rd gens. My clutch petal is sitting just below my brake petal, meaning the clutch only disengages on the Very bottom of the stroke. I plan to make a new end in the machine shop this week. 

 

I went back to a 4" downpipe... 5" just wasn't working. There's no way I could make it fit without it hitting the cab as I decelerate. The 4" flows more than enough anyway. 

 

I hooked up the reverse light by cutting switch where it clips to the harness. I then soldered wires to the exposed prongs. From there I heat shrunk it and hooked it up to the truck's harness using spade connectors and taped them up tight. 

 

I was told from a reputable source that the 4x4 actuator for the CAD would not stick low enough into transmission to actuate, but it works just fine. I do have a problem with the Tcase though... It won't shift into 4H while moving, otherwise it will grind. It shifts just fine sitting still, so I'll have to see if it needs to go in for warranty. 

 

Now for the good news! This thing shifts like a beauty!! Even better than the nv4500 IMO. Dropping it into a gear from a stop is very easy, unlike the 4500. I can even drop it into reverse at a stop with ease. With the 4500 I always had to drop it into 4th before reverse.  Having 6 gears really changes the game. The truck stays right in the middle of it's power band instead of the big jump between 3rd and 4th gear. 

I don't like the OD ratio though... the .79 instead of the .74 really makes the rpms jump up at cruising speeds. I'm around 2100 @ 70mph. 2400 @80mph. I may go with a set of larger tires to drop my rpms back down, but we'll see. 120 miles tonight and everything sounds smooth as butter!

Edited May 7, 2016 by TFaoro

[notlimah]

Good to hear!

 

Larger tires FTW!!

[AH64ID]

The 3rd gen transfer cases are not syncro'd so the grinding is normal since you have a CAD truck. The 3rd gen's don't have hubs or CAD so the front driveshaft is always spinning and therefore no syncro's are needed. 

 

If you want shift on the fly you might have to eliminate the CAD or add a manual CAD switch and then hit the transfer case into 4. 

 

Looks good!! When you tow you will love that 0.79 6th. I really want to swap my NV-5600 for a AD G56 but I cannot justify the cost. The 0.79 makes my dad's 06 tow better in 6th than my NV-5600 and I have about 150-200 lb/ft more than he does. Larger tires will help with 6th rpm's but lower then in 5th too. Just have to look at your towing frequency and speed/rpm range.

 

What hydraulics/clutch are you using? 

Edited May 7, 2016 by AH64ID

[TFaoro]

7 hours ago, AH64ID said:

The 3rd gen transfer cases are not syncro'd so the grinding is normal since you have a CAD truck. The 3rd gen's don't have hubs or CAD so the front driveshaft is always spinning and therefore no syncro's are needed. 

 

If you want shift on the fly you might have to eliminate the CAD or add a manual CAD switch and then hit the transfer case into 4. 

 

Looks good!! When you tow you will love that 0.79 6th. I really want to swap my NV-5600 for a AD G56 but I cannot justify the cost. The 0.79 makes my dad's 06 tow better in 6th than my NV-5600 and I have about 150-200 lb/ft more than he does. Larger tires will help with 6th rpm's but lower then in 5th too. Just have to look at your towing frequency and speed/rpm range.

 

What hydraulics/clutch are you using? 

 

Hmm I wonder if it's going to hurt the Tcase because the front shaft is never spinning. I'll have to dig more.

 

I am considering switching my CAD to an electric over air. That way if it's snowy or something I can let the shaft turn as I drive and pop it into 4x4 anytime I want. Decisions Decisions.

 

I think the hydraulics are for an 05 G56 truck, at least I'm assuming that because that's what the trans is came from. I'm not sure how the hydros differ from the 2nd gen to 3rd gen