Teardown and Rebuild

[Me78569]

Just lock the cad in 4wd position.  I haven't noticed any differnce since I did it in mine.

[TFaoro]

1 minute ago, Me78569 said:

Just lock the cad in 4wd position.  I haven't noticed any differnce since I did it in mine.

How did you do it? I'd like something clean.

[Me78569]

You can buy a locking bolt setup for a d40 / d60

 

http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html

 

I just used a bolt and threaded it in but that above is clean.

[AH64ID]

4 hours ago, TFaoro said:

 

Hmm I wonder if it's going to hurt the Tcase because the front shaft is never spinning. I'll have to dig more.

 

I am considering switching my CAD to an electric over air. That way if it's snowy or something I can let the shaft turn as I drive and pop it into 4x4 anytime I want. Decisions Decisions.

 

I think the hydraulics are for an 05 G56 truck, at least I'm assuming that because that's what the trans is came from. I'm not sure how the hydros differ from the 2nd gen to 3rd gen

 

I hope it doesn't hurt anything... mine isn't ever spinning anymore. 

 

Actually it shouldn't hurt a thing.

 

Does posi lok still exist?

 

Stock hydro's and stock clutch? Don't think those are going to hold up well to your power...

 

G56 hydro's are different than NV5600/NV4500 hydro's and are much weaker. They cannot be reused with any SMF conversion clutch due to their weakness. 

[TFaoro]

52 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

I hope it doesn't hurt anything... mine isn't ever spinning anymore. 

 

Actually it shouldn't hurt a thing.

 

Does posi lok still exist?

 

Stock hydro's and stock clutch? Don't think those are going to hold up well to your power...

 

G56 hydro's are different than NV5600/NV4500 hydro's and are much weaker. They cannot be reused with any SMF conversion clutch due to their weakness. 

Yes, it does exist. I don't like it though.... Seems cheesy to me. I think I'll run an electric over air setup with a simple switch. That way I'll have the ability to lock and unlock it.

 

I think I said it earlier in the thread, but it's a  south bend street dual disc with south bend hydros. There's no way I'd even attempt a stock clutch. The truck has some dang good power even on stock fueling.

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

I bought a posi lock a few years ago and I'm not real impressed. No good way to route the cable or mount the lever and still a pain to engage or disengage. Only upside is leaving it engaged on snowy days and having instant 4wd. 

[TFaoro]

Nor was I just from the pictures..... I think i can make something pretty slick with a simple switch!

[AH64ID]

9 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Yes, it does exist. I don't like it though.... Seems cheesy to me. I think I'll run an electric over air setup with a simple switch. That way I'll have the ability to lock and unlock it.

 

 

The old man bought a couple of them in the 90's for GM CAD. They always seemed to work well. One of the rigs was sold in 2007ish but he still has the other one with a posi-lol in it. 

 

I do recall hearing that the developer sold the company around 2000, ???, so the quality may have changed since we bought them. Fairly simple concept to make your own with. 

 

9 hours ago, TFaoro said:

 

I think I said it earlier in the thread, but it's a south bend street dual disc with south bend hydros. There's no way I'd even attempt a stock clutch. The truck has some dang good power even on stock fueling.

 

Gotcha. I did miss that. 

 

The SBC hydro's should be adjustable with that setup. I am not sure if you can get enough for your pedals to be flush or not. There are different part numbers for 2nd and 3rd gen SBC hydraulic kits thou. 

Edited May 8, 2016 by AH64ID

[leathermaneod]

My truck came with the posi lock setup on it and I have liked it so far. You also get the advantage of being able to use 4 low in a two wheel drive mode. Yes it has a few weaknesses, but over all a very good system. The company is also very helpful with any issues you have. 

[TFaoro]

Sooooo this morning I start heading home for mother's day.  I was doing about 70 and all seems normal then I hear the ding from the "check gauges" light. I look down and my volt meter is laying all the way to the left. I shut the truck off and re-started it, but the volt meter never went above 12. I think O well and quickly drove to autozone to pick up a new one. I get the new alternator and come outside to see a little bit of smoke coming out from under my hood! I quickly grabbed my tool set and threw the hood open to find the rubber "cap" on the grid heater terminal smoking. I quickly disconnected both batteries to stop the smoking. I also managed to touch the intake horn and burned my hand (Yeah I know really smart right?) I unbolted the grid heater wire from the battery terminal and hooked everything back up.... no more smoking. Looks like one of the relays decided to get stuck closed. I think it overworked the alternator and made it shut off (which made the gauges light come on) Hopefully it didn't hurt the alternator... I'm going to take out the fluke meter and make sure the diodes didn't get burned up in this process. Just shows how you should always check your gauges periodically!

 

I also lost two manifold to engine nuts, and the gasket between the manifold and small turbo is blown out again. I have great luck...

16 hours ago, AH64ID said:

 

The old man bought a couple of them in the 90's for GM CAD. They always seemed to work well. One of the rigs was sold in 2007ish but he still has the other one with a posi-lol in it. 

 

I do recall hearing that the developer sold the company around 2000, ???, so the quality may have changed since we bought them. Fairly simple concept to make your own with. 

 

 

Gotcha. I did miss that. 

 

The SBC hydro's should be adjustable with that setup. I am not sure if you can get enough for your pedals to be flush or not. There are different part numbers for 2nd and 3rd gen SBC hydraulic kits thou. 

I'm going to try and find some switches and we'll see where it goes from there!

 

The different part #s must be for different lengths. No worries, I can make my own in the lathe

[notlimah]

Jeeez! Glad you made it out with what you did! That sounds like it could've gone a lot worse! 

 

i really need to start a more consistent ritual of checking under the hood and things like that that typically go unnoticed until it's happening. 

 

Part of me couldn't help thinking while reading this

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roadkill 

[TFaoro]

Lengthened the Tcase shifter rod tonight so that the shifter in the cab is in the correct position. Allows me to have 4L again.

Also lengthened the shift rod from the clutch petal to the slave cylinder. I've got it adjusted too high right now, but I'll get it into that sweet spot eventually.

[TFaoro]

I usually keep the truck looking good, but she's no pavement queen.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

On 5/9/2016 at 2:02 AM, TFaoro said:

Sooooo this morning I start heading home for mother's day.  I was doing about 70 and all seems normal then I hear the ding from the "check gauges" light. I look down and my volt meter is laying all the way to the left. I shut the truck off and re-started it, but the volt meter never went above 12. I think O well and quickly drove to autozone to pick up a new one. I get the new alternator and come outside to see a little bit of smoke coming out from under my hood! I quickly grabbed my tool set and threw the hood open to find the rubber "cap" on the grid heater terminal smoking. I quickly disconnected both batteries to stop the smoking. I also managed to touch the intake horn and burned my hand (Yeah I know really smart right?) I unbolted the grid heater wire from the battery terminal and hooked everything back up.... no more smoking. Looks like one of the relays decided to get stuck closed. I think it overworked the alternator and made it shut off (which made the gauges light come on) Hopefully it didn't hurt the alternator... I'm going to take out the fluke meter and make sure the diodes didn't get burned up in this process. Just shows how you should always check your gauges periodically!

 

I also lost two manifold to engine nuts, and the gasket between the manifold and small turbo is blown out again. I have great luck...

I'm going to try and find some switches and we'll see where it goes from there!

 

The different part #s must be for different lengths. No worries, I can make my own in the lathe

i had this happen to me as well, i removed battery terminal and let it cool down. i rebuilt the bad one and its been working fine since

[Mopar1973Man]

Grid heater relays are arc closed. Just need to replace the grid heater relays.

[TFaoro]

Yesterday I took a drive up to Westcliffe CO with a trailer to go to an auction. I don't remember the elevation, but it's pretty high and steep (5200 ft to 9100 ft). @Me78569 can attest to that. 

I could hear a pretty bad boost leak the whole way, and the egts were higher than normal. About 1100 most of the ride. My fan was also on the entire way as the engine tried to run hot. 

I got home and decided to tackle the boost leak first. It was easy enough to find. The boot on the inlet of the secondary was leaking really bad. As I pressurized the system I wasn't paying attention and got too much pressure in it. The intake blew off and smashed my oil filter.

 

 

So it was time for an early oil change. While I was at it I figured what the heck I'll fix the pan gasket too... 

Just in case anyone is wondering they are a real PITA. I'll do a quick run through here of how it's done and make an article soon. 

So, step 1: Buy all of your parts. I bought the pan gasket, some starting fluid, fleetguard oil filter, 3 gallons of Shell Rotella 5W40 T6 full synthetic, high temp permatex gasket maker, and some tacky stuff to spray on the gaskets. If anyone is curious I'll get a picture of the stuff. 

Step 2: Unhook necessary piping. I was able to leave my down pipe and charge pipe from the turbos alone, but the intake horn boot had to come off.

Step 3: Loosen both motor mounts. I had to loosen them enough to allow the bolts to slide all the way out of the slot. Others have reported loosening them just a little bit and lifting the motor until they hit the lip but that didn't work for me.

Step 4: Lift the motor. I lifted the passenger side with a big cherry picker and the driver side with a bottle jack on the side of the block.

(pic was taken after the pan was out sorry)

Step 5: Loosen all of the pan bolts and allow it to drop. This will give you access to the 4 bolts that hold the suction tube up. Take them out and allow the tube to lay in the pan. 

Step 6: Attempt to slide the pan out. If you have trouble with it hitting the axle you'll have to allow the front end to droop by lifting the frame. Make sure to release the engine before lifting on the frame. 

Step 7: Attempt to get the pan out again. If you're having trouble with it hitting the bell housing, keep raising the motor. You'll be surprised just how high she can come up! Make sure to keep an eye on the fan shroud to see if the fan hits it. If it does, make sure to pop it loose and allow it to hang. 

Step 8: Once you have the pan out don't touch the engine! Keep it in the same spot so you know it'll slide in on re-assembly. 

Step 9: Dump the rest of the oil out of the pan. There's about 1/4 to 1/2 of a quart in there (nice design Cummins engineers) 

Step 10: Clean all remaining gasket off of the pan, pickup tube, and block. I also wiped oil off of the throws and mains to keep it from dripping on re-assembly. 

Step 11: Once it's all spotless, set the pickup tube back in the pan and slide it back into place.

Step 12: Spray one side of the pan gasket with the sticky stuff and slide it onto the pan. It holds the gasket in place while you work on the pickup tube. 

Step 13: From here I sprayed the tacky stuff on one side of the pickup tube gasket. Bolt the pickup tube back into place. It's easiest to start with the rear bolt and work your way to the front. 

Step 13: Put some RTV on the spots where the front case and rear main seal meet the block (4 spots). There's a very slight gap here, and I think that's where mine was leaking. It shouldn't take much!

Step 14: Bolt the pan up. I put a couple in the hold the pan snug, then ran the rest all the way in with my fingers. 

Step 15: Tighten them up! Then set your engine back down and make sure all loosened bolts are tight again.

 

Places I ran into trouble: 

1: Twin turbo pipes hitting... I was able to fix this by removing the charge pipe between the two turbos (the one I just stopped from leaking) and removing the exhaust clamp off the back of the secondary. This allowed the primary to flex in just enough to have room.

(pushed to the side)

Problem 2: The transfer case was hitting the skid plate. This won't be an issue for anyone else, but the NV271 is BIG. I just had to loosen all of the bolts. 

Problem 3: I had to raise the motor so high the bolts were no longer in the slots of the motor mounts. They were a real pita to get back in, but a big pry bar will move the engine enough to allow them to drop.

 

Next to work on the running hot issue. While I was under the truck I saw some orange... coolant. My water pump, which has less than 1K miles on it is already bad. 

It was under warranty so I went back to Napa. They gave me one that looked exactly like the original Cummins one! Hopefully it lasts better. 

 

I then greased all of my U joints and ball joints. While I was at it I decided to grease the front wheel bearings. Many people think these bearings are sealed.... which they are on the outside, but on the inside they are open! Many hours of research lead to my conclusion that they CAN be greased through the ABS hole. I added grease to them through the ABS hole, and kind of used the ABS sensor to pack the grease in there. It was pretty cool how I could feel the bearing going from kind of loose to tightening up as I added grease. Some might say this will aggravate the ABS system with the grease, but it didn't bother it a bit. I plan to stuff some grease in there every 30-50K and see how long I can make these bearings last. 

 

After that I decided it was time for a valve lash adjustment. The motor has been running pretty loud lately, so I knew they were getting bad. When I got the valve cover off they were horrible! Let's just say the intakes were over 20 thousandths (supposed to be 10 thousandths) Needless to say the engine is MUCH quieter now. My brother calls it the wanna-be Common rail because it's so quiet. 

 

I took the truck out for a drive and it's doing MUCH better. EGTs are down now that the major boost leak is fixed. It's also pulling 10 more psi of boost on stock tuning   The engine temps are still acting a bit weird. It tends to pull up to 197 then drop off to 188. Then back to 197 then back down. I've got a new thermostat, so I'll drop that in and hopefully my cooling system will be happy again. All in all a pretty successful day of work. 

 

Now I've got a 98 12V (yes the holy grail... opening rear doors and all) sitting outside the shop with the clutch needing replaced. 200K of pulling miles still on the stock clutch! I guess that's how it works when you keep it stock  

Edited June 6, 2016 by TFaoro

[notlimah]

Man that's a lot going on. Seems like one of those days where you start fixing one thing and say 'ah screw it, I'll fix alllll this other stuff too!' Haha I've had plenty of those too.

 

Post back with an update on the thermostat readings. That sounds exactly like what mine does so I'd be interested to see if it's really just thermostat. I have a new one sitting on the bench, just haven't had time. 

 

Who's 12v is it? I looked and looked for one before buying my 02, they are rare!

[Royal Squire]

Is the oil pan sealed up?

[Mopar1973Man]

As for the grease in the ABS sensor hole... You going to find out later it will impact the sensors and not function. I've got old grease leaching out of the bearing that has natural graphite the metal in the grease is acting like a gap filler so the sensors is reading all kinds of weird speeds and constantly ripping ABS codes. So you've been warned. No you can't wash it out now. My front unit bearing are tight no issue there but the tone rings and full of grease If I blow the grease out using compressed air it works for about 1-2 days and the grease gets back in the tone wheel screwing it and trip the ABS light.

 

As for the pan gasket... You just rebuilt that engine and changing a pan gasket this early? It's not even a year old yet.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[TFaoro]

8 hours ago, notlimah said:

Man that's a lot going on. Seems like one of those days where you start fixing one thing and say 'ah screw it, I'll fix alllll this other stuff too!' Haha I've had plenty of those too.

 

Post back with an update on the thermostat readings. That sounds exactly like what mine does so I'd be interested to see if it's really just thermostat. I have a new one sitting on the bench, just haven't had time. 

 

Who's 12v is it? I looked and looked for one before buying my 02, they are rare!

 

Snowball effect and I couldn't stop!

 

After driving 50 miles to work this morning, the new water pump made a huge difference, but the issue isn't completely gone. Fan kicked on once in 60deg weather, which it never should. I'll replace the thermostat tonight and report back.

 

It belongs to my dad's old boss. My dad told him which year would be best to get and he found this one in less than a week. My dad wasn't happy with him  

 

31 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

Is the oil pan sealed up?

 

I'll find out tonight  

 

18 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

As for the grease in the ABS sensor hole... You going to find out later it will impact the sensors and not function. I've got old grease leaching out of the bearing that has natural graphite the metal in the grease is acting like a gap filler so the sensors is reading all kinds of weird speeds and constantly ripping ABS codes. So you've been warned. No you can't wash it out now. My front unit bearing are tight no issue there but the tone rings and full of grease If I blow the grease out using compressed air it works for about 1-2 days and the grease gets back in the tone wheel screwing it and trip the ABS light.

 

As for the pan gasket... You just rebuilt that engine and changing a pan gasket this early? It's not even a year old yet.

 

I've done a LOT of research on this subject. I've yet to find a single person with that issue. After my drive this morning everything was still good,  so we'll see if codes start popping. If they don't this is a really good way to extend the life of the bearings.

 

As for the gasket, I don't think I put enough RTV where the rear main mounts to the block. It wasn't even leaking enough to drip, but my bell housing was wet and I didn't like it. I like to keep it clean, so if anything starts to seep or leak I'm going to fix it asap.