Teardown and Rebuild

[TFaoro]

2 hours ago, jlbayes said:

Dap should be able to get you a kit or just about any turbo shop.

Does it matter if it's genuine or not? 

The two kits they have are either aftermarket with a "stock" thrust and aftermarket with a 360* thrust. 

http://dieselautopower.com/southeast-power-systems-s400-super-kit-65451/

http://dieselautopower.com/southeast-power-systems-s400-360-6-pad-thrust-upgrade-64050-1/

Edited February 17, 2017 by TFaoro

[notlimah]

Is there anything special about that valve cover? Or just that it says 'cummins 24valve'

[jlbayes]

On 2/17/2017 at 10:32 AM, TFaoro said:

Does it matter if it's genuine or not? 

The two kits they have are either aftermarket with a "stock" thrust and aftermarket with a 360* thrust. 

http://dieselautopower.com/southeast-power-systems-s400-super-kit-65451/

http://dieselautopower.com/southeast-power-systems-s400-360-6-pad-thrust-upgrade-64050-1/

 

I prefer the 360*s when rebuilding. They should know whether or not if the kit is genuine borg.

 

On 2/18/2017 at 3:46 AM, notlimah said:

Is there anything special about that valve cover? Or just that it says 'cummins 24valve'

 

Nothing other than an industrial valve cover.

[TFaoro]

On 2/18/2017 at 1:46 AM, notlimah said:

Is there anything special about that valve cover? Or just that it says 'cummins 24valve'

The industrial looks way better IMO. Especially when they're cleaned up right. 

 

I remade the mounting bracket for the primary turbo this weekend, cleaned up both exhaust housings and painted them, and re-shined my secondary compressor housing. 

[notlimah]

54 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

The industrial looks way better IMO. Especially when they're cleaned up right. 

 

What does the industrial cover come off of, or where would you even find one?

[dripley]

They come off of a 5.9 that did not go in a Dodge. Like used in a pump or a generator or the like.

[Royal Squire]

My dad used to drive a Cummins powered school bus. I believe it had that valve cover also 

[dripley]

I believe Dodge wants you to think they had something to do with the success of the Cummins engine.

[TFaoro]

6 minutes ago, dripley said:

I believe Dodge wants you to think they had something to do with the success of the Cummins engine.

I wouldn't own one if that engine wasn't in it -__-

 

Some engines have the oil fill cap on the wrong end, so you have to be careful of that if you're looking for one. They can not be bought new anymore either. 

 

I ordered a manifold, gaskets, mounting bolts, paid for the injectors to be rebuilt, and bought a rebuild kit for the 75. I'll also be building a coolant bypass while everything is apart. I'm working on figuring out what pressure I need a valve to be at. More to come on that later. 

[dripley]

I remember reading a response over on CF, IIRC anyway, when asked about why he bought a Dodge. His response was "I bought a Cummins and a Dodge came wrapped around it." i always like that. I do like my Dodge but it was the Cummins that brought me to it. After 15 years of owner ship and the only big ticket items I have had to replace is the ECM, one VP, and one 6 speed tranny. Sure it sucked but I dont think Ford or Chevy would have done any better. Spent a whole lot more money paying for it the first 5 1/2 years  than I spent the next 9 1/2 years driving it. Excluding voluntary mods I might add.

[AH64ID]

Have you considered a coolant bypass that has a thermostat? I'd put a thermostat in that opens 10° above the engine thermostat. 

[Dieselfuture]

Same here, bigger part of why I got my truck is cummins, nv56, Dana 80 and 60, factory 4 or so inch lift. And there was something about 2nd Jen look.

Didn't doge sewed cummins in the beginning for not wanting to deal with them, kind of low if you ask me.

 

[TFaoro]

12 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

Have you considered a coolant bypass that has a thermostat? I'd put a thermostat in that opens 10° above the engine thermostat. 

I've thought about it, but heat doesn't blow out freeze plugs.... pressure does. I'd like a system that doesn't open unless pressure is above a certain threshold. With a thermostat, pressure could still build in the back of the block/head. 

As an example, if I go down a long hill and coolant temps drop to 180 then I floor it to 3600rpm with egts over 1600* the temp at the thermostat may never reach 200* but pressures could spike excessively high. 

That's just my reasoning though. Please feel free to share your thoughts! I'm always open to gaining more knowledge. 

12 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Same here, bigger part of why I got my truck is cummins, nv56, Dana 80 and 60, factory 4 or so inch lift. And there was something about 2nd Jen look.

Didn't doge sewed cummins in the beginning for not wanting to deal with them, kind of low if you ask me.

 

I personally think the 4" block in the rear was a huge mistake, but I'd have to agree with the rest.  

[CSM]

As a former pumping engineer, I really wonder if the pressures from the water pump amount to much.  It is also bypassed through the heater core iirc.  

 

My typical statement of "cooling system failures are 99% related to old coolant" hasnt been disproven yet.

 

Water boils at x temp and gives a pressure.  The thermostat has holes in it and isnt a perfect seal.  Your radiator cap will leak if too much pressure ~16psi is applied.  

[TFaoro]

5 minutes ago, CSM said:

As a former pumping engineer, I really wonder if the pressures from the water pump amount to much.  It is also bypassed through the heater core iirc.  

 

My typical statement of "cooling system failures are 99% related to old coolant" hasnt been disproven yet.

 

Water boils at x temp and gives a pressure.  The thermostat has holes in it and isnt a perfect seal.  Your radiator cap will leak if too much pressure ~16psi is applied.  

I'm fully confident in your engineering capabilities, so I don't think it's your ability that's lacking but rather the collective knowledge of the cooling system itself. I can honestly say I don't know exactly how everything flows. The weird thing is some people never have issues while others will repetitively blow freeze plugs if the pressure isn't bypassed. Have a look at the videos in the first post of this thread. 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-performance-parts-discussion/569921-i-tested-pressure-6-coolant-port.html

[CSM]

36 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

I'm fully confident in your engineering capabilities, so I don't think it's your ability that's lacking but rather the collective knowledge of the cooling system itself. I can honestly say I don't know exactly how everything flows. The weird thing is some people never have issues while others will repetitively blow freeze plugs if the pressure isn't bypassed. Have a look at the videos in the first post of this thread. 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-performance-parts-discussion/569921-i-tested-pressure-6-coolant-port.html

Data! 

 

I will look at it.

[Dieselfuture]

Put some duct tape on water pump pulley to slow it down at high RPMs

[AH64ID]

Most people have issues by romping on a cold motor. If the motor is warm it is very very rare to have any freeze plug issues. 

 

The issue also isn't just the water pump but the expansion of the cylinder wall during combustion creating a ripple in the coolant. 

 

I've read about issues with pressure relief because if the main thermostat isn't open the pressure relief isn't enough and freeze plugs pop. 

 

I like the thermostat idea but it may work better for long pulls and/or towing. 

 

I have also read about guys removing their thermostat and running an electric water pump on a temperature switch. This keeps the water pump from accelerating out of it's operational range and doesn't have the issue of building pressure with the thermostat closed. 

[jlbayes]

There is data floating around with 90psi being measured in the back of the head/block. I do not see a temperature based bypass resolving that issue.

[AH64ID]

8 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

There is data floating around with 90psi being measured in the back of the head/block. I do not see a temperature based bypass resolving that issue.

 

It can easily resolve that issue by opening at temp before pressure rises so that pressure is never allowed to build. In the end it will do the same thing by flowing fluid away from the back of the block but it never lets it build in the first place.