2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey Guys, I really need your help on this one. I have been chasing an intermittent dead pedal and hesitation issue and I'm not sure what could be causing it. It does not happen all of the time, there will be days that i drive the truck and it doesn't happen at all and other days where it happens multiple times. It doesn't matter if the engine is warm or cold either. It usually happens under acceleration, but it has happened while cruising. I will go to accelerate from a light and nothing happens when i push the pedal for about 2 seconds and then it will kinda sputter and then accelerate like normal. I put a new VP on the truck in July and after talking with Mast…

First time posting on this site, i have to say this site is amazing always have found stuff that has helped me. Well im hoping someone could explain whats houng on with my truck. First and foremost the truck is a 1999 2wd 5 speed 3500 2nd gen cummins and it has a cold air intake and a intake horn, edge ez, 50hp injectors, new H. O vp44. The truck has 307k miles and runs amazing and has no issues. But when im driving on the highway at a steady speed around 80mph the sound in the engine bay will change every 15-20 seconds it is most deffinetly the sound of combustion changing and or the injection timing changing. The truck will have the typical knocky 24v clatter that sound…

Finally purchased a rebuilt VP44; it arrived yesterday & the swap was today's project. Replaced the factory VP44 11 years ago. And apparently, I significantly over tightened the high pressure lines on the back of the replacement VP44 because I really struggled to get them off. Modified a 17mm crows-foot flarenut wrench to get enough back pressure then I was able to get the line nuts to finally brake free. My guess is i was trying to get the lines to not leak. Now the ends are mushed over (see pic). Hard for me to believe I tightened them that much but obviously I did (I was broke down out-of-town...might have had something to do with it). …

I’ve got codes 0253, 1689, and 1688 so I think I did a pretty good job of cooking the vp44. DAP is getting me set up with a new one but before I put it in, does anyone have any recommendations for things I should look at to preserve the next pump? i have over boost code 0234 so I’ll check the waste gate to see if it moves (I guess?) also am planning to check ac noise and do the w-t mod. i have the DAP intake elbow, quadzilla, and stealth plate coming too

Hello everyone, New to the forum here, have a 2000 Dodge 24 valve. I’m a mechanic by trade, bought the the truck off one of our customers. He had this issue towards the end of his ownership, truck would surge during idle and the odd time would throw APPS code but he could still drive it. The trucks had a couple different APPS sensors, OEM and aftermarket. When I bought the truck last summer I did a ton of upgrades/maintenance, starter, alternator, 2 new batteries, FASS and sump, fuel pressure gauge and a bunch of other things non related to the problem. I did all the APPS testing between sensor and ECM and everything checked out. After doin…

I'm looking at purchasing an s475 to replace my s366 I got unintentionally.. I found a boostlabs s475 83 .90 T4 for sale brand new for $600 on marketplace.... I would be using it for twins so the t4 has got to go. I hear there are 2 different CHRA's on the t4 vs t6 turbos. That being said how would I go about swapping to a 1.10 or similar t6 housing. Need completely new bearings housing and turbine housings?? That sounds far too expensive to be worthwhile. From what I can tell the bearing housings a mostly identical except for the diameter where the exhaust housing clamps on. Also what's the deal with the 83/74 and 87/80 and 88/96 wheel si…

First atf change on my rebuild transmission and I figured I'd throw in a transgo shift kit in it while I was in it. I really wish I took readings of pressures before I tore into it. Now I'm looking at 90 psi at 1200 rpm dead stop and 120 psi with the tv valve all the way foward at 1200 rpm. I've done a bunch of reading on this site and read some great guides. But I cant find someone with the same problem I'm having. According to transgo I should be seeing closer to 120 -155. Only other mods to the transmission was a single disc billet torque converter and a upgraded 2nd gear strut and anchor. Am I ok to run at these pressures? Is my pump going out? Or do I need to upgrade…

Total rebuild on 00 24v. I put in my 02 truck with rebuilt nv4500. I’m having trouble finding the correct wiring harness to make this work. Can anyone point me in the right direction please. Or can I just use the ecm/pcm from my 02 and make it work?

First of all a big thanks to everyone. I have been lurking around and this forum has helped me a lot. I bought the truck recently so im not sure what all was done but it was built for compounds and they ran that some and it looks like they about caught the firewall on fire and went to the S300. I was told it has an upgraded pump. I don’t know. It’s green or blue I’m not sure if that helps. I have the tune dialed in for driving around and up to 5th gear. Pretty sure the map is good for what I have as I bumped everything up 2 and it was just straight smoke. I did try a big injector tune I found on there that started at 70, went…

Hello Guys I have a 5.9 24 valve cummins in my F250. Im experiencing hunting at idle when in gear, worse when warm.Ive done the hot wire test and taking the ECM out of the equation and runs fine with no hunting, that said as expected no. I made up jumper wires from the VP44 disconnecting data link from the ECM and runs smooth but only 1000rpm....since doing the test Ive emphasized the problem, now I have skipping and bucking but no hunting up through the throttle range.Can only get fault codes from PCM not ECM ?...Im on the fence on whitch way to go APPS, VP44 or dirty signal from ECM....any help would be much appreciated..Im on the west of Australia …

So I came across a deal on a 90 gallon L shaped auxilary fuel tank to mount in the bed of the truck. It's used but still good. I have never had one nor mounted one in a truck. I was wondering if someone on here has had one and mounted it. Any tips on how to do so? Also, if you have one are you gravity feeding it to the main tank or did you install an inline fuel pump? I have a small inline pump on the shelf and was thinking about using it with this tank to fill the main tank with a flip of a switch. Thoughts?? I'll be getting the tank sometime over the weekend so I'll post up pics once I have it. Thanks for any input.

Hey all, title says most but will go into more detail. sometimes on startup, the engine will start, then die for half a second and come back on. Like if you were to turn the key off while running and quickly turn it back on. This happens occasionally and then a few weeks ago, it would start and then die after a few seconds. It did this a few times before it was just cranking. Finally got it started and it ran fine. This has all occurred after my o Reilly vp pump replacement … and I’m definitely worried it’s the pump. Any insight is appreciated!

I need to quickly getbny throw out bearing changed before leaving for a trip tomorrow. Thinking of I pull both cross members that I should be able to pull the trans and transfer case as one unit with out draining the fluids that are brand new. Has anyone done this?? Is there enough room? I have a HD trans jack, so I'm not worried about weight.

Recently I've been getting after some much needed maintenance on my 24v. So while I replace my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump seals I'd like to throw in some valve springs, valve seals, head studs, and any other seals/components I can get to at the same time. I know the valve guides are known to wear on 24v's so I'll make sure to take a peek at those too. I just rolled over 200k. So my questions are: What seals should I use for the valve stems? I hear something about CR seals being used as an upgrade? What other components/seals should I be replacing/inspecting at the same time?

I will get intermittent dead pedal when driving above say 60mph with light pedal pressure.. I also get this weird hanging up when revving the truck in neutral it will rev up just fine then hang up at say 2000rpm then come back down..all of the issues show up after some amount of highway driving. Drives fine on short trips, long trips it's constantly cutting out at some point. The hanging up thing worries me that something mechanical is ****** up. How often does the control unit fail vs mechanical on newer units that have been fuel starved at some point? I have a new fass 150 pump motor and so VP44 installed less than 10,000 miles ago. I did b…

Has anyone ever measured the amp draw of a VP44? I have been having some weird issues with one I just bought, so I did some logging and what I'm seeing is that it pulls about .2amps when it is idling smooth, then it jumps up to between 12 and 18 amps and the engine starts to run rougher, then it drops back to .2 and smooths out again. I'm curious if that is normal or the sign of a bad pump. Luckily I have a Blue Chip VP44 that works great, and I'm building a brand new ultimate bullet proof engine, so if this one is bad its not the end of the world...

I’m finally getting around to installing a FASS Titanium unit (that has been on a shelf for quite a few months) on my 2001 manual transmission 4x4. This pickup still has block mounted lift pump. I’ve disconnected electrical plug from the factory lift pump . Where should I put the fuel line from new pump? Inlet of preexisting block mounted filter or inlet side of injection pump. FASS instructions say directly to injection pump. I had some previous advice that said to connect it to inlet side of filter housing. What are the advantages and or disadvantages of either? TIA . Kevin

I have a 1999 dodge ram 3500 2wd dually and i started hearing what i thought was a wheel bearing when i turn left. I jacked up the passenger side and checked for any play in the wheel and felt the tiniest bit of play in the bearing(or so i thought) i did the passenger side front inner and outer wheel bearings the inner bearing race had one pea sized spot that was all fuckered up like someone hit it with something by accident, the outer looked fine but replaced them both and the seal. Well after getting everything back together it seemed to still have that little bit of play so i looked further and found the top ball joint to move ever so slightly. Well after driving the n…

Got a good story for you guys. Had a bad ecm that worked on the truck for a week or two, then intermittent no start. Put a loaner ecm and started right up, but had limited peddle as it was a fleet truck and derated. I used that for a few months, and then took it to a Cummins Workshop today to have it flashed back to factory settings. Now, the loaner wont fire, and my family had to drive 5 hours to get two different ones. Now, neither of those will fire also. I am completely confused as to what is going on or what the Cummins company could have did, and my truck is stuck at the Cummins shop. Thanks.

I am desperate for any help. I have a 1999 Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins, and when I first bought it, it had delayed wait to start. I didn’t know what this meant at the time, but it wouldn’t start at all after a week or two. I put in a loaner ecm and it started up great, and runs okay. Three months later, I’ve rebuilt the original ecm twice, and still nothing. Loaner ecm is still in and working, but seems to have developed some dead pedal. Hot or cold, after 40-50 mph, it only accelerates through the gears slowly after that, even if I mash the pedal. Could it be excessive AC noise killing them? Or two bad ECMS? Awesome truck, but I don’t want to dump thousands …