2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Anyone here rebuilt there hx35? I guess I’m going to attempt it myself tomorrow. Any tips or suggestions? Hope I don’t mess anything up. I plan to check for boost leaks before I rebuild it. Anyone have a diy tester they have built?
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- 72 replies
- 9.9k views
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I just installed some DFI 7x.011’s and a 62/68/12 to go with my Quad v2.0. Now, any tps input below ~7 results in a stumble of sorts. Like driving about 20mph in 2nd gear (auto) it’ll surge on and off. TPS and canbus are not fluctuating at this time. Also, has a Timbo apps in it. Im wondering if it’s a result of the large injectors not popping correctly with the low tps input. Anything over about 7 tps and she runs like a dream. No codes. Any ideas?
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- 12 replies
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Hey guys/gals. I have been having this issue that comes and goes, mostly under very low throttle or idling. The RPM’s will barley move up maybe 200 rpms very briefly. My fuel pressure stays steady at 17 PSI. The below video is what I am speaking of. As you can see, and this is the first time this has happened, the check engine light came on. My dad has a scanner I can plug in to read the code, however any ideas at what might be the possible issue. Thanks. [video] I also just noticed my temp gauge surges as well and then drops to zero after watching the video.
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- 79 replies
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Hello, I replaced my steering box and pump last night (Both bought through NAPA reman since I’m broke and get a discount through work) and hooked everything up as it was before. I then had the front tires off the ground and turned the tires back and forth about 20 times. Then started the truck and did the same thing. Everything felt smooth so I put the truck on the ground and turned the steering wheel and everything seemed fine. I went to back out the driveway and as soon as I hit my brakes I lost everything. So I muscled the truck around the block and back into the driveway. (Its 2am by this point) So this morning I jacked up the truck and proceeded to do the same thing …
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- 6 replies
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What is the best way to delete the grid heater and do the wiring to not get any codes? I live in northern CA so I don't need them and I have a big stereo system so I want to eliminate the extra draw on the alternator and battery's. thanks
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- 29 replies
- 11.4k views
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so this might be a bit long , please bear with me . working of a 2001.5 quadcab 4x4 diesel 2500 automatic ( single piece rear drive shaft ) less than 150,000km I'm getting vibration around 80km +/- 10-15 km ( starts around 70km , goes away over 100 km ) it feels like a drive shaft or bad u joint . ( but drive shafts are good ) started off with swapping the rims and tires over to another balanced set ( both sets of wheels where clean , no mud , and weights where in place ) .... vibration still there went through the rear diff and rear drive shaft , all good , replaced rear brake pads and joints in drive shaft ( joints where still good )..... vibr…
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- 16 replies
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Glad to have found this forum....Ok, here's the deal. This truck was last tagged in 2011. It was drove/cranked periodically for very short periods while sitting 99.9% of the time. I got it tagged and inspected, filled up with fuel. I've put about 350 miles on her trying to see if Lucas fuel treatment might resolve some issues....as I am new to owning a Diesel, in general. I've done a lot of googling though, LOL. All right, here's what's up. It busts off and cranks fine, every time....but it lopes very hard and spews white/blueish smoke....very strong diesel smell until it warms up a bit. Once warmed or ran, it cranks fine. Second issue...Usually after …
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- 7 replies
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Good evening guys! I was wondering if any of you run a a Industial Injection Viper 63/70 turbo w/ 12cm housing? I am thinking of upgrading one of my 01 3500's with it and was looking on opinions and usage reviews. I would only be using it for towing. Thanks!!
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- 0 replies
- 888 views
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Howdy folks! I'm currently working on replacing my exhaust system with a Diamond Eye 5" inch kit and have come across an issue. My old down pipe has corroded itself to the the exhaust flange waste gate elbow (Part #3590110).. so I need a new one, but I can't find anything online. Can someone help point me in the right direction? Should I use one from a different turbo setup?
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- 1 reply
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Going to head to a local muffler shop tomorrow to get either the muffler or resonator taken off my stock system. I assume it would be a better idea to delete the muffler and keep the resonator. I would appreciate some input on which to do and has anyone done this. I just want to get a little more sound out of my truck but not have too much in cab drone. A friend did both and the sound is nice. But the best part is the cost. They only charged him 80 bucks to do both plus a chrome tip. Can't even get a muffler delete pipe online for that price. Thanks in advance. L8tr D
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- 56 replies
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I'm confused I am try to figure out where my communication problem .I have done the tests that i got from here and when I do the check to ground on the white and black wires my gauge does not move at all. I was looking around online and I saw pretty much the same test but the color of the wires it said to check on post 1 and 2 on the FPCM are totally different. My wires are one white and one black and they are together in a shielded cable in the wiring harness with the others for the FPCM is this correct? I have a 2001 2500 quad cab long bed 2wd with auto transmission.I have replaced the lift pump and the VP44 it will crank but NO START. Thanks in advance for any HE…
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- 2 replies
- 955 views
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Well I thought the truck was running good... It sat last night and most of today and I went to start her and she fired first crank but idle extremely erratic and had a nasty lope and unloaded a mass cloud of white smoke... New injectors went in a week and a half ago and all seemed well until the lift pump failed. I'm thinking the LP took the VP too. Fuel pressure went straight to 20 psi so that's not a issue. Ran the key trick and got P1693 and then -------- and then P Done. checked for codes and found nothing.
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- 211 replies
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I've been leaking oil from the drivers side of the motor and my fear was the tappet cover which I just replace..... But turns out the oil is coming from a port in the block just below the motor mount. (see picture). My question.... Is this threaded? or was there a plug or something in the hole that maybe blow out? And how do I keep this from happening again?
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- 12 replies
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Anyone know if there is an OBD PID for idle mode? Say for instance my truck had a weird lopey idle and I suspected that the APPS is rapidly jumping from idle mode to off-idle (because the truck also jumps out of fast-idle mode when it's cold). I know I can check it with a meter, but I was hoping I could monitor it from obd. Thanks.
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- 11 replies
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OK I'll start with my truck is a 99 24v auto. All stock aside from a beans sump and a fass 150. I had a edge ez but it's been removed. Also I just replaced the vp44 with a used vp44. Before I replaced it I had a hard set p1689 no communication between ecm and vp44. Once I put the replacement VP in the code immediately went away and right before I had all the injectors bled(almost had it running) it threw the p1694 in both ECM and PCM and then kicked me out of the bus connection. Still have power at the data link connector. Now I'm unable to connect my scanner(Autel Maxidas) to either, no tach signal while cranking, no wait to start light, no lift pump signal, and pi…
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- 63 replies
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I believe this is related to my low power and P0237 issues but last evening I went and picked up a new boat 20 miles away. Idk when it started but i started hearing a lot of what sounds like valve chatter. Something tells me it has nothing to do with the valves but that it’s related to a timing issue. I’m also having rough idle symptoms again although a bit different from when I had air in fuel. What I’m thinking is since I have turbo play and all that i may have low boost which flipped the code and is causing low power. I also read somewhere here that low boost will create more timing and make a knocking noise and higher boost will retard timing. This boat I…
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- 22 replies
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Hello everyone, I have a spare HX35 laying on the shelf and I would like to get it rebuilt to more of a towing turbo. Does anyone know or recommend a shop that can rebuild turbos? Closer to CNY the better. Thinking about getting housing machined for a 60 or 62mm wheel. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Tim
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- 2 replies
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Had the 5th gear retainer nut installed by my local shop about 6 months ago and now 5th is hung in gear. Just returned from that shop and was told they can't see any problem from shifter section on top of the tranny so it must be internal. He told me he shouldn't have to pull the tranny since 5th is in the tail section, that just means a little less in labor. This 5th gear is starting to $500 here $500 there me to death. He hasn't pulled the tail section off to see what exactly the problem is but I am sure it want be anything to do with the retainer nut because that is what he put in and said I would never have the issue again. So far he is correct I haven't loss 5t…
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- 8 replies
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So injectors are currently getting re-popped to 325 and I've been watching youtube vids and write up on injector swaps. Obviously everyone does it a little different but I want to make sure I get things straight for my particular situation. As far as I know I'll be pulling on stock injectors and I don't know if/when a valve lash adjustment was done. When swapping injectors do I need to remove the exhaust rocker arms? Most videos show them being removed and I'm wondering since I don't think these injectors have ever been out of the truck if that'd be a good idea in order to verify the torque spec on the rear injector hold down bolt? I want to make…
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- 27 replies
- 6.9k views
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