2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Folks, in 2010, I put the Dodge in tank Lift Pump retrofit into my 99. Its been rock solid since. As some of you might know, I have recently made a bunch of changes to my truck (ECM, Inj Pump, 275 Bosch injectors, 2000 Fuel Filter housing) and this afternoon the lift pump pressure started doing wonky things. its normally around 18 or 19 @ idle, and 14 or 15 cruising down the highway. Sunday I took the truck/Trailer/Buggy for a ride to make sure it was happy with the hills around my area & it seemed to be quite happy. when I got home I put the trailer away & filled up the truck to see what kind of mileage I got (10 BTW). …

Any nv4500 gerus on here i have some questions

I was thinking , How is a Remanufactured ECM programed to your Vin number. What equipment is involved? Software? Is it this big mysterious machine, kept in a underground bunker that does it? Do they swing a dead chicken in the air? Throw a pinch of salt over their left shoulder? Or are the vin number programs on CDs and they just plug into the ECM with a USB port and run a CD on a lap top computer Anyone really Know?

UPS tracking says monday Dec 11. I ordered it last Thursday afternoon, Programed it, and Shipped out Tuesday. The Wait ........

I talked to a "really good" mechanic recommended on the phone He said to check my "power-up relay" and my "ECM relay" in my fuse box I cant find anything called a power up or ECM relay on my '99 CTD Are these two relay something that dont even exist ?

I have a few left over parts from the fuel tank area after a “mechanic fixed ” my fuel system. Maybe I should just throw the parts in the garbage? but then again maybe someday might come in handy for me or for somebody else. Fuel module… The straw was actually the thing creating tension to keep it expanded inside the tank. Vulcan Diesel tried to fix and drilled out basket. Didn’t work so well, so I bought a new one. I was going to install some springs to create tension. ***Question…How much tension do you think is good? Maybe 3 pounds, 5 pounds? FASS drawstraw… Where the plastic pipe slides onto the nipple inside of tank is suc…

Thinking my ddrp is taking a crap on me. Hopped in this morning and had 11 or 12 psi at idle and usually have 18 or 19. Wot is usually 12 14 now is 8 or less... Thinking that could be my power thief when I was pulling the trailer?

Been thinking about different oils lately since i was dealing with my skid steer and all... What about running an 0w40 oil in these trucks? I've always wondered what 15w40 was doing to my truck in dead winter startups and it not being plugged in...

Can I control the grid heater by installing a switch on the Grid Heater Relay control wires? I know this was talked about before. Did a search and nothing comes up.

Alright guys I am starting a new thread looking for replacement heads. I am looking at a few options... there isn’t much information out there regarding who has the best replacement heads that won’t break the bank, and who you should stay away from. Let me know what you guys think!!! Option 1: http://djprecisionmachine.com/product/1998-2002-stage-1-24v-cummins-performance-head/ Option 2: https://www.littlepowershop.com/dodge-cummins-diesel/1998-5-2002-5-9-cummins-24v/engine-parts/cylinder-heads-related/1998-2002-dodge-5-9-cummins-24v-new-cylinder-head-loaded-w-103lbsprings/ Option 3: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2…

First off I got to say Thank You to @Chris O. for producing a wonderful tool for me to beta test for him. I've managed to test the speed sensors and see the right front is dropping out below 30 to 40 MPH. It drops to zero while the left shows signal. This produces weird ABS action and pulling left fairly hard. Everyone knows I've changed sensors and tested wiring. I've talked to several tire shops and found an answer. The tone ring has most likely broke free on the hub. So I'm hunting for a used unit bearing for testing purposes. Anyone have old bearing laying around?

99 CTD 4x4 Tell me about advantages of disconnecting the heater grid. Im in Calif, but will be moving back to Idaho or Washington state I disconnected the Heater grid wire eyelet right at the drivers side battery positive terminal. ( is that the proper place to disconnect?) Ran my truck to see if it would throw the checkengine light (nope} So tell me the advantages or extra safeguard I benefit by disconnecting the heater grid. I thought I heard disconnecting it helped protect the ECM or something like that ? ? ? Or what issues does the heater grid operating cause, if any ? I obviously draws amps/power

Hello everyone, i'm having trouble removing the plantertary gears on a np241dhd. All snap rings are removed and still won't come apart. Any idea's? Keep in mind the bone head that destroyed this ran it out of oil. So did the bearing get hot enough to weld itself to the shaft?

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 Firstly you need excel on a computer. 1. Start by opening your datalog, 2. The delete the columns you dont want in the reports 3. select the datarange you want to graph on, I would ensure you don't select more than 75 ish rows. too many rows results in a junky looking graph 4. Click insert &g…

I'm going to unwrap and repair my engine wire harness. I figured that I should document what it is, so that I can put it back together when I'm done. This is an image I stitched together after taking about 20 separate pictures. Full_Stitch_6_5600x1000.zip

Anyone heard of RAE Diesel (Reman Auto Electronics)? They are Part of Flight Systems Electronics group http://www.remanautoelectronics.com/about https://www.fseg.net/ I talked to them seems like a winner . The ECMs are re-manufactured, up graded, and also repaired if needed , not just repaired .

Is it necessary to disconnect the battery s to pull out, check, or replace a relay in the circuit box? Rick

I have a long time issue '99 CTD 4x4 with 170,000, Ive owned the truck for a long time When I turn on the ignition key to 'On',,, the truck alot of times the lift pump and "wait to start" light have a 3-4 second delay before they get power. So it will crank but not fire up unless you wait to here the lift pump turn on and the 'wait to start" light to go on. Its like a 3-4 second delay for the computer to boot up or something is the best way I can describe it. It is a electric issue not a fuel issue sence I mentioned the lift pump, dont get the wrong idea Any ideas what causes this?

What are he symptoms of a dying Vp44? Current one has 15 k on it the P.O. put it on a while ago in 2014 I think... as you know I have been having power issues but now it’s been fine lately. Not gonna be surprised if it comes back though. This was my next concern with the power issue. Is there a way to test the pump?

Hey guys I have a road trip planned tonight. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Long story short I was driving home pulled into the driveway noticed that I was leaking oil it is all over the side of my truck underneath the hood and all over the engine bay. I turned on the truck back on with the hood open to see where the leak was coming from and it looked like it was coming out of the valve cover gasket. Have you guys ever lost a gallon or so of oil from this gasket in less than a 1/4 mile? Or do I have a bigger problem? I have attached a picture below for reference The video might help. Btw the sound is totally new with this issue A018…