2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I need some help. I have no gauges on my dash except for my tack that works. I have put a new transmission wiring repair kit, I have cleaned all the terminals, I have checked all the wires that I can see and I put a new pcm on it. it will crank and drive but i have to start off in first and to get it started going then I can put it in drive and it will shift on its own. Im about ready to drive it off a cliff. (lol) any suggestions will be much appreciated and at this point I'm willing to try anything.

Drove the truck last Tuesday, then proceeded to get awfully sick so truck sat and became a nest. Wanted to move my trailer, no start, and found this. No idea how to take the pins out of the plugs so I can attempt repair. Guess I'll research this over the weekend. Sweatshirt weather today, and Winter begins tonight with sleet and snow, and 4 degrees by Sunday! Late start this year.

Alternator output solid at 14v. ECM voltage output varies, Injector pump voltage varies. Is this normal, if not, what should I do? Thanks in advance, I've ordered the scan tool that was being used so I can check whenever. The problem is I don't know what the typical values should be. Tim

I have just build a 2006 Ford E 350 van with a 24 valve cummins / Allison trans and a 4x4 conversion. I got the engine from an auctioned truck (2001) on the title. Have it running and driving but in limp mode so far. Cam sensor code, After alot of messing around I called cummins and they told me the engine number and ecm p/n are for 1999 but my harness wiring colors tell me it is off the 2001. I have both diagrams printed out and seen the number 9 pin was empty and should be for the cam signal on a 99 so I got a pin from cummins installed it tagged into the grounds and 5 v with a new pig tail and hooked cam and crank up as I think it is meant to be but still throw cam co…

Today I wired in a lockup switch, into an existing switch panel I have that has b+ to the switches. I ran the switches wire to a relay and when I flip the switch it sends positive to the relay. The relay sends ground to the b11 orange/black wire on the white middle connector, problem is it seems when I turn the switch on it unlocks the converter and my speedometer stops working, anyone seen this? Thanks

I rather ask here than pars store or google, what kind of oil does a nv4500 get? and how many quarts ?

Im starting the project today and checking in to see if there is a preference on what gasket maker to go with as Id like to make this a one time deal. Thanks

While my VP is out for repair im resealing left side of block. The old mounting bracket for the stock lift pump is in the way of removing push rod cover and it has a seal back there id like to replace. Am told there is a cap/plug like on old chevy fuel pump where you can cap it off. Not having any luck finding this. Anyone done this and know where I can locate? FOUND IT, LOOK NO FARTHER THAN DAP

My e-brake light and abs light came on my dash , the first time they came on after a few miles they turned off, second time they came on they turned off after a few miles again then the third time they came on they stayed . the truck is a 1999 auto 4wd , I'm getting ready to go hit up the test and tune at the trac and I would like to make sure my brakes are good. The brake fluid reservoir is full and I haven't added any . Any recommendations on where to start ?

Hey guys, I just finished a bunch of work on my truck and dealing with some issues I’m not sure are related or not. For background I Pulled engine and trans, resealed engine, new poly motor mounts, new RV275 injectors, new VP and alternator, rebuilt the 47re w Goerend VB and rebuilt transfer case, head studs, resealed AC, rebuilt turbo, new fuel lines, intake and exhaust gaskets, basically went through the whole powertrain. What’s happening now is I’m not getting a tach signal and the truck sounds like it’s missing at idle and there’s a sharp hiss/tick in the exhaust like a misfire. I’m wondering where the sensor is for the tach signal because I’ve checked…

Truck: 1999 2500 Quadcab NV 4500 300,000 miles. What happened: I was driving to work and everything was fine until I pulled up to a red light then my truck could barely hold a very unsteady idle. CEL came on. Pulled off road and had it towed to my work. Pulled following codes: P0251 Injection pump fuel valve feedback P0252 Injection pump fuel valve stuck P1688 VP44 Fuel Injection Pump Module Internmal membory or A/D error P1693 Fault in companion module P0122 TPS sensor 1 circuit low P1682 charge system output low Some of these were probably very old, I can't remember the last time I did a scan. I should …

My brother-in-law in Crescent City, CA has a 2002 4wd Cummins 2500 truck that has logged 175,000 miles. The stock automatic transmission has failed l- no second gear. I don't have any real details of the exact failure. The truck is still stock - no tuner and original injectors. The truck occasionally tows a very heavy 5th wheel (around 14,000 lbs), usually less than 200 miles round trip two or three times a year. He has no near future plans of doing anything different. Sometime down the road he may become a full-time RV-er and he will purchase a truck to match whatever he tows. I was thinking of a quality rebuild with a lower stall speed conv…

I'm in need of a new dipstick. I leaned on mine and broke the handle off. I was able to get the remainder out of the tube. The tube itself is fine. Just need a new dipstick. I checked @Genos Garage but the one they have says tou have to pull the handle off the new one and put it on the oem metal part.

Hoping someone with more experience knows what to look for here. Last Feb I replaced my turbo, didn't get a chance to change the oil line so it had a slow leak, finally got around to replacing that, however to get the gasket remnants off, I attempted to rotate the turbo, should have just pulled it off instead. One of the bolts snapped. not a warranty-able item so I paid the shop I bought it from to fix it (drill/re-tap) During this process, I changed the exhaust manifold gaskets because one of them was leaking. After all of this, I suddenly had a howl at 2-6psi... thought it may be the exhaust touching the frame, so when it was in for other service…

I’m finally getting around to replacing all the battery cables and doing the WT mod. I have a very early 1998.5 24V, and all of the other posts and pictures about the WT mod seem to be on later second gens. I have pictures attached with markups. Can someone please confirm I’m on the right path. Thank you!!!

It seems like everybody thumbs their noses at small compounds these days, but everyone I’ve ever talked to that has had them loved them. I’m specifically referring to stock/s300 type setups, I’m pretty sure the old BD kits used an S300 as the primary. Any idea why we don’t see that setup offered much anymore? Is it just due to a shrinking market and the S400 working better for the 5.9/6.7 crowd as a whole? I’d think someone valuing quick spool and low egt’s more than big power would enjoy the smaller setup…any theories? I’m sure I’m oversimplifying it or missing something. Maybe they really are good set ups, there’s just not a big enough market for vendors to sell them.

Hello Guys, New to the forum. Recently bought a cab swapped 2001 24v 5.9 6 speed with a 15x VP pump. I bought the truck not running and dont really know alot about the mods that have been done to it. It does have an edge tuner and a dual turbo installed as well. I have replaced the VP44 and still have a no start. I have bled the return line banjo and 1, 3 and 4, to the point of flowing good. I have 20psi coming off the fass lift pump dropping to 10psi while cranking. I do have power and ground at the vp plug. I have also tested continuity and grounds from ECM and PCM. Replacing the VP44 did change the sound while cranking. Before it was jus…

So Ive got two leaks going on, one is leaking out of the drain spout and the other is the plastic housing that screws to the side of the housing. Ive looked at several auto parts stores. I checked napa on line and cant find anything under fuel filter housing. I feel like dodge would just be a waste of time, it would just be discontinued like everything else. Any leads on this?

Hey guys, being from Canada BC, the floods have been pretty bad and i had to drive through some pretty deep stuff for about a whole minute. i made sure to go slow. it wasnt up to the bottom of my doors but it was pretty high regardless. i pulled my air filter off to see if there was any water, and it was pretty damp and some water droplets, but nothing crazy. is this something to worry about. it was about up to 3/4 of my tires. im all stock aswell thanks guys

So, weather sucks. It's like 4°F here with wind chills of -25. Truck won't start. I though it was gelled up. Poured power service in the tank, went to pour some in the filter housing and the fuel in there is fine. I reinstalled the filter top. Still no start. Put a fuel pressure test gauge on it and no fuel pressure. truck was plugged in, ran fine before thos cold weather, plenty of fuel pressure before also. Is it possible the lift pump froze?