2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Put on new tires and noticed a pronounced pull to the left. Checked the tie rod ends and found both sides with some play in each side. Is there supposed to be any play in them? Am approaching 100k miles so I guess I need to get new tie rod ends??? Just came off a 1200 mile trip and am not sure if I noticed the pull to the left with the old tires or not, if so, it was not as pronounced. I had the new tires on the left side switched to rule out a faulty tire. It still had the strong left pull.

Could someone give me a little info on 0232? What and where to start? Is this due to bad ECM?

My airdog 100 bit the big one yesterday, I had blown a fuse last week( 20 amp )and sicne then had to put 30'S to keep it going. Well 30's wont keep it going anymore. I belive it is something in elec. motor like bearing or something along those lines. Anyway I got to thinking, I shimmed the spring about 5 months ago to get more fuel pressure on the gauge 17 lbs. Could I be overworking my little 100, I have the 150 draw straw in tank. Well I ordered a 150 pump today, I just cant be down that long untill I get it back. Just thinking out loud, what do yall think?Oh and I was told today that the new pumps come with quick connects instead of the push on connects.

Ok time for another question!Does anyone have a link, or information on the process of checking the waste gate as a routine thing?How do yo guys check your waste gate? Is there a step by step method? or what?It doesn't seem logical to go around prying on things, or the such.There must be away to exercise it to get it to open and close.Information will be appreciated.

Good Morning Everybody,About 4 days ago i was driving and got a check engine light, did the 3 key on procedure and found code P1693 then the check engine light was gone, went to mechanic hooked obdII scanner and found no codes. Driving back home when i got to a stop sign i exprerienced "dead pedal" and got check engine light again, and drove home at idle speed and sometimes after a few blocks it came back to normal. I hooked obd II scanner and got code "P0223" THROTTLE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH B CIRCUIT HIGH. I went ahead and ordered TIMBO apps sensor, received yesterday and did the voltage adjustment, started the truck and drove it for about 15 miles and was wor…

ok here we go, I completed my swap about a year ago and everything worked great for about 9 months. all of the sudden one day im driving down the road and the van just stops!. it was like someone reached over and shut the thing off. after getting it towed home i followed the diagnostic procedure for the vp44 and after hooking power and ground directly to it i found that it was indeed dead and would not fire. so simple enough i order a new (reman) vp from a local parts dealer and when it shows up im immediately put off by it. it had silicone caked on the harness where it goes into the psg and had dirty finger prints as well as dirty hash marks where the fasteners hold…

I am looking for a flex plate for my 2001 5.9 diesel 4x4 with a 47RE transmission. I really dont see the need for a billet one and are having a hard time finding a non billet one. The only one I can track down is the one on MTS website. The F2-5.9 for $195. What do yall think of this thing? Do you know of any other non billet ones? 3 Times Thicker than OEM SFI Rated Flexplate Designed to handle extreme duty applications Designed to take the punishment of high horepower engines 4mm thick centerplate Ring gears are precision robotic welded with cold welding process

My needle is jumping like crazy at highway speed it's at 0 then 120 then back to 0 I've replaced speed sensor and the wiring cleaned connection up put dielectric grease on and on the pcm as well guage cluster is fine no codes on it

Hey guys, Just going to do the crankcase vent mod and I'm wondering whether or not you guys have glued your joints, or just pushed them together? I'm assuming "slip fitting" means you just slip them together and friction does the rest.. but figured I'd better double check. Thanks!

Well I gone and added the 4th switch to my setup. It didn't take long at all to daisy chain in the 3rd switch to the IAT and make it functional. No longer have to play with rheostat's or stuffing the IAT plug with wires. I'll get my video up here really quick.

I'm confused as can be, and this'll be long-winded.. Subject: 1998.5 2500 Cummins 24V 5 speed RCLB 4WD. 115K miles Complaint: He (good friend of mine, and neighbor) stopped by the other day with it poppin', stumbling, hazing, and no power. Also, fuel gauge is not correct, and reads very inaccurately. I checked the FP at the injector pump.. KOEO, 12psi. KOER, idle 10, At 1500rpm, 5-6psi. Fuel filter was changed a few months back, truck's been about 1500 miles since. I could barely hear the in-tank pump (it's had the dodge conversion from block-mounted to in-tank lift pump). Codes: P1693, P0216.. (dun dun dunnnnn) …

I'm looking to buy a core 47re for a 01 4wd. Will be built with a triple clutch converter, billet input and intermediate shafts and aftermarket valve body. What year transmissions will work for this? @Dynamic can you provide any info? I'll most likely be buying a valve body from you and using whatever converter you recommend. This is a long term build with parts bought as i can afford them.

Here ya go, you think it had a problem? And check out the eng. hoist. #1 & 6 where black.

I was curious if anyone on here has done the reverse and went from a manual to an auto trans? In my 99 Cummins 4x4 that I used to have a few years ago, I swapped out the auto trans and installed a rebuilt NV4500 that my buddy and I overhauled and installed a brand new South Bend single disk clutch. I kept my ECM and PCM and installed a manual trans stock tune file from Mads with a Smarty and it ran great after that. At the time my left knee had stage 4 arthritis in it and it wasn't liking a stiff clutch at all, so I found a friend that had a verified rebuilt auto trans with paperwork from Baker City, and we spent a long day swapping transmissions and input sha…

My truck on longer journeys usually has my trailer hooked up and I lock out OD, everything has been fine also I tend to lockout OD around here also as it means the convertor is locked for much longer so revs down and MPG up, it can trundle along just over our lowest built up area speed limit of 30 just nice, pretty flat here. Yesterday I went to fit a turbo boost sensor on a Volvo loading shovel, already visited to diagnose and was 100% sure so no need for my trailer just the part and a 8mm ratchet spanner and a small screwdriver Noticed the change from 3rd to 4th was harsh and not what it usually is bearing in mind It may not have done that upshift for a…

I've been wondering if it would be possible to rig up something to lock up my tc whenever I want. If possible are there dangers in doing this?

Ok today i was in a hurry and while my truck was warming up in the driveway I notice a puddle under the truck. It was Diesel and it looked like it was coming from the bottom of the lift pump. About evey 5 second there was a drip while it was running only. I took another vehicle and didn't get back intime to look into it futher. Question will these leak at the bottom? It looked dry above it. Anyone had this happen to them? Thanks in advance for any input.:confused:

Hey everyone. I just need a little guidance on my truck, an '02 2500 QC/LB, H.O. w/ 6-speed. I haven't been driving it much lately, took a job in another state and I'm driving a little Dakota to keep the miles down on my baby. Anyways, I went to start it this weekend after sitting for the better part of 3 months and found the batteries dead. I had the key on long enough for the heater grid to cycle off, and when the voltage didn't come back above about 9 volts I shut the key off and put a trickle charger on the truck for about 14 hours and tried starting it the next morning. It fired, and ran fine for the three-minute heater grid cycle while I moved some items ar…

There is a guy talking to me about 12V's but he can't find any and is heading the 24V route instead since they are plentiful and I am not 100% on some things. He is getting it from a 70 year old with low mileage who just replaced the VP44, so I told him that would be the best one. Aside from needing a fuel pressure gauge, better lift pump, use 2 stroke, what else is there? Plus I can't get into enough details about what I just said. He wants to know how long he can run without a gauge and I said however long you want to be second guessing the lift pump. He also wants to know about what to do when the lift pump does go bad. Assuming he has a fuel pressure gauge by th…

soo got the fuel problem fixed i figure , now onto the rest of the problems lol . first is the clutch and or the slave or the master that controls the clutch . i find that my clutch pedel goes half way down and then gets stiff and starts operating the clutch , i have to push it soo hard into the floor just to get it into gear and that sucks! and is hard on the syncros ! soo is this air in the system ?? or can i adjust the clutch ? what are my options here fellas ? next is the e brake light , wont turn off no matter what , checked the e brake switch and it works fine , i also un plugged my porportioning valve sensor and it was still on , soo what else is ther too…