2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello fellow cummins nuts, this week my truck has made me feel mentally challenged, started with edge not connecting but truck started and ran, then it went to a no bus and i could still read codes which it had none, Today the truck will not crank, OBD2 will not connect, batterys good, checked the PDC box in the main fuse box and it has ground (Encountered no ground there before) i am puzzled as to where to look right now and im also having issues opening links to moparmans 2001 wiring diagrams, Ive searched this issue and clicked on them with a page not found every time. Dash lights work headlights work gauges appear to not work as it reads 0 volts, …

Hi guys, my 2002 5.9 24 valve has some issues and I want to verify I am doing the correct things before proceeding. It runs poorly and surges, the temp gauge is going near full almost immediately, and the check engine light is on. There are several high voltage codes including (P0563 charging system, P1475 Aux 5 volt output, P1286 APPS supply voltage, P0113 Intake air temp sensor, P0118 ECT voltage, P0238 MAP sensor) all stating voltage too high. Now I also have the P0606 ECM/PCM Processor code. I did an alternator A/C noise test and it failed (otherwise the charging system seems normal). I am able to scan codes but can not communicate to get any data whatsoever. My plan …

I bought this truck a couple of weeks ago with the owner telling me that he thought it needed a new VP44. The one in it was rebuilt just over a year ago. I've been working on some of its other problems and trying to figure out if it is in fact the injection pump that is causing the trucks problems. Basically the truck will sometimes start missing and farting. Sometimes it is just a minor little blip and sometimes it is bad enough that it will die at idle. It happens at all RPM ranges but is definetly worse when there is no throttle applied. Some days it does this right off the bat and other you can drive for 30 miles without any problems. When I got the truck it had codes…

Grid Heater Bypass Installing this bypass will allow you to manually control if and for how long you want to run the grid heaters when the ECM is commanding the grid heaters on. This will reduce the load on the alternator/charging system and in turn reduce the harmful AC voltage. This bypass will also keep the fault codes P0380 Intake Air Heater Relay #1 Control Circuit and P0382 Intake Air Heater Relay #2 Control Circuit from being set. Parts needed: 1. 2 micro relays, terminal 87 (5) normally open (NO) with suppressor …

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Before I changed out the motor and tranny there were lots of spots in my driveway so it didn't bother me. But now there are no drips but I still get that burned oily smell once in a while. Being a rooky, is there something I don't know about? I can't see any obvious cause of this odor.

I experienced code 1688 a while ago and also experienced a dead pedal (completely dead, does nothing). yesterday I replaced the 44 with a new one, got the truck running but the pedal does absolutely nothing. any ideas? thanks, greg

Not sure wether I want to go with FASS or AirDog lift pump, but with either one do you have to drop the fuel tank or pull the bed?

Background: Serviced my truck the other day and did oil change, oil filter, took off the BHAF and hit with air compressor. Went for a drive and noticed a whining sound once the boost started to build (never heard this before). Went back to the house immediately and pulled the BHAF/intake elbow and found rubber behind turbo silencer ring (see picture). I am not 100% sure where it came from. My helpful two year old could have put something in there while it was sitting on the ground, or it could have been a rubber tip that came off the air compressor attachment. Just not sure. Anyway, I ended up taking off all boots before and after intercooler to blow out/chec…

Could I ask a huge favor from someone. I would like a picture of the inside of the gear case and where all the bolts are without the cam and pump gear in the way. My oil leak is on the rear side of the gear case and running down to the corner of the pan and blowing back. I'm looking at options to tighten all the bolts and see though. Or loosening all the bolts and separate a little and get a small bead of silicone behind the edge. Either way it leaking engine oil pretty good in 15 miles its got oil splattered all the way to the transfer case.

I did my valve lash yesterday while doing an oil change. This is the second time doing the procedure. I put the engine at TDC and did my adjustments, adjusting all the valves that were loose and that I could jiggle. I put the engine at BDC and started on the next set. While doing these I looked up the procedure on here to find out what the torque setting was for the jamb nuts and I noticed that one of the valves was loose (I could jiggle it) that wasn't on the list of valves to adjust while at BDC. I finished up adjusting the valves that should of been adjusted and rotated the engine back to TDC and checked the valves and there was one that was loose that shouldn't b…

Now I know! This truck is co owned with my FiL, and about the only time I get my 'hands' on it is when something is needing repair! (not a real good arrangement eh?) For me anyway!But we've had this for about 7 years now, bought this '00 3500 just for one purpose: to pull either the stock trailer, or our flatbed.looking for possible causes for a couple of trouble codes... I see it still has the factory block mounted lift pump.I thought these were pretty much recalled early in their life to be retrofitted??? I'll bet a lot of you are thinking.... how can this guy not have heard where the pump was humming?..... well, I am 90% d…

I am looking at upgrading my 99. I have gauges(egt, fuel and boost), boost fooler and a boost elbow. I am thinking that one of the next things to install are injectors. I know everyone likes the RV275's, but looking around I am wondering if 75 hp injectors are also a good option. I do not tow heavy loads a lot, but there are times that I do load the truck down and would like to have some extra umph. I know that I will also need to upgrade my fuel pump as I still have a stock type in the tank, but for now I am just looking at different options. The truck has around 350,000 miles thus far and runs down the road without missing a tick. Thanks for any input.

i have a couple post on here and origanly my map sensor said it was bad but truck would still start i have not had time to fix map sensor but now truck wont even start is this cause of bad map sensor or do i have other issues my obd2 came up with 1688

Hello everyone, If you look at my sig, you will see I don't have a normal Dodge Cummins truck. I have all the looks of an old Ford, the power of a 24v, and the electrical gremlins of a shoehorned harness. My stubborn side has finally given in to ask for diagnosis help because it seems there are many different things that could be causing the issues I'm experiencing. Context: To make a long, complicated story as condensed as I can, I sold my truck because I'm moving to Germany in a few months and it would NOT fit on the roads there. I sold it to a kid on Fort Bragg and I should have known better. Zero mechanical experience but swore up and down h…

My truck was in the Diesel Shop... the mechanic questioned "all the extra wiring under the dash".... Yes there was. I'd left the harness on the trailer brake full length as it had nice labels on each lead. I had installed an Escort Radar system (front & rear sensors wired to a under the dash box & a tiny control unit)... again left full length as they were tiny factory made connectors. They were all bundled & zip tied under the dash. None of these affect the engine but he didn't know what it was. I had an AD150 & big line system installed. Now, I'm adding a IAT fooler & XZT+. Both are plug-ins. This is important as they can be rev…

I have a 2001 2500. How can I tell if I have a 53 block?

I'll just leave this here.... http://www.scottsonline.com/groupitem.php?Item=2383&Groups=277 And DISCUSS!

Ok folks I need to know if I take the banjo fitting ( return line ) off at the vp and blow air thru it to make sure it's not stopped up , will it hurt anything like crossover tube orings. I just wont to make sure the return to the tank is open. Also will it hurt vp?

I have heard people talk about fuel millage being in the 20's and maintaining the ideal 1800 +/- rpm, but iI run down the road at 55 mph @ 1500 rpm - 70 mph @2000 in overdrive, 55mph @2000 rpm with overdrive off.In order to keep @ 1800 rpm i have to run 45 mph with overdrive off or 65 mph in overdrive.I am running 305/75/16/10 tires 32.6 in tall with 3.54 gears, would changing to 4.10 gears help. I had factory size when i purchased the truck which was 265/75/16/10 or 31.8 tall and was about the same.I am getting around 17 mpg now but diesel just hit 3.99 gal and gas went down to 3.21 gal Most of my driving is hwy, very little stop and go.I thinking of upgrading to 4 in ex…