2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Help! I'm trying to install my rebuilt NV4500 with the bellhousing on the engine. I'm on gravel, and can only raise vehicle on jack stands, the fork and the throw-out bearing will NOT stay in place. I've removed the bellhousing and zip tied the open end of the fork, where the hydraulic rod goes, and tried to put it back on the engine. Is there a clip or retaining ring on the other side of the fork I'm missing? If I attached the bellhousing to the trans, that would solve this, but is there another way? I do not have a lot of room for the bellhousing and I 've just moved the cross member down enough for the trans to clear I have my teenage kids to help, but t…

I bought a front seal from cummins and not totaly sure of my self. Is the way I have them stacked the way it goes together? The middle ring is like a seal also, I figured it helps hold the top ring in place while you tap it down. Should I use a little oil on the crank to help it slide on?

I am in the process of installing boost, pyro, fp and tranny gauges in my truck. So far so good but I am not sure about the tranny temp assembly. Where does the sensor go? Where is the best place to install the electronic control block?If anyone has knowledge and/or pictures I would appreciate your help.Thanks,Arcwelder

Hey there, I have a 2000 Cummins that I've been building for about 7months. I put a new cab on it and dash. The dash is a 98. I've got everything hooked up but when I turn the key to start it, I'm not getting any dummy lights, check engine lights, or even an odometer. The backlights work and all the guages seem to twitch/reset. Anyone have any info on what could cause this? Dead/low batteries? Grounds? Thanks guys.

So far i have check the following: 1.-check the relay it self by manually appling voltage and they work. 2.- confirm that the grownd side of the relay coil is not open 3.- At the connector comming from the ECM there is no voltage when set the ignition switch on Am I looking into a defective ecm?

My manual states that the intake air grid heaters will cycle on and off for approximately 3 minutes if the intake air temp is below 60 degrees F. However, I can't seem to find the durtion of the on cycle anywhere. Mine stay on for about 3 to 4 seconds, then off for about 15 to 20 seconds. Just curious if this is the correct cyclic timing sequence.PRG, 2002, Ram 2500, 5.9 CTD, 4 WD, Extended Cab, 8" Bed, Quadzilla XZT+, Quadzilla Monster Air Intake, Quadzilla Recon Gage, Okanogan Highlands, WA.

Hi guys, had a bit of a weird experience with my grid heater this past winter thought Id share incase someone else is having trouble. The intake heater wasn't working, the wait to start light would come on and cycle like it should but the volt meter never showed a drop. Checked the hot side of the relay, it showed 12 volts. Cycle the heater on no voltage at the heater terminals. Must be the relay. Replaced with new, same outcome. Took the leads off at the heater to check resistance, checked ok. Cycled the heater again and the leads showed 12v when they were not connected to anything. Long story short I needed to clean the lead at the battery terminal. Apparently it…

I have a 1999 Dodge Cummins 24 valve. It's suddenly hard to start so I checked the codes. I got 380 & 382, so I checked the relays and it's not getting ignited/excited on the heater side when I turn the key on.The battery side of the relays are hot. I used a jumper wire and manually applied them, I can hear them click on. The diagnostics in the scanner say to do this to see if the relay is bad, if not then it just refers to the ECM. Is there an air intake sensor that can go bad? If so where is it and how do I diagnose it.Is there a way to positively diagnose an ecm?

I changed injectors last Friday and over tightened the 2 bolts in the back that has the injection lines on them. The gasket must have been a bit brittle and split and blew out. I only removed the lines to 1,2,4, and the plate came out the front. Now the problem that I see is getting the plate and the gasket back in there together. I was wondering if it would be a problem if I put something like silicon or grease or gasket shellac to hold the gasket in place or is it a no sealer type of gasket.

It was time to fix some of my minor boost leaks and whistling sounds coming from the old manifold gaskets. So since Lindy wasn't busy and the gasket where their at work why not? So I got a nice dry spot to work inside and all the tools I could ever want. So I will tell you that you want to remove all the injector lines. The fuel filter has to come off (if you still have the stock fuel filter). APPS sensor has to be removed and the intake horn and grid heater of course. Take a nice sharp puddy knife and start scrapping off the old gasket. It will be baked on so take your time. Then once cleaned up I put a very fine layer of black silicone on both sides o…

Do you need to remove all the injector lines to remove the intake plate? I was looking at the Crazy Carls intake plate in the store and says it installs in about an hour. I know if I have to remove the injector lines it will take a lot longer than an hour.

Do the bolts that hold the rear engine lifting bracket on the head go through the intake housing and do they need thread sealer on them?Reason I ask is I just installed the scheid 100 hp injectors and was test driving and looking for leaks and when I spray things down with brake cleaner It is pulling it into the intake when I spray around the # 5-6 injector line/lifting bracket area.Intake cover and manifold area are ok but it is the area behind it that causes it to start sputtering when I hit it with brake cleaner, only thing I could think is if it was following the lifting braket bolts into the intake?Any ideas?

Well i got my BHAF in today and was putting it on and jsut decided to peak and see if the silencer ring was removed and found that alot more than the silencer ring was MIA. All I could see was a black film of oil. :banghead: I called around here and could get that one rebuilt through work for $800. Started looking around online and found some that were $1100 for an OEM replacement. Called one place and they had their "in house" brand which had the same warranty as the Holset but half the price and I dont have to send mine as a core. I know you pay for what you get sometimes but I had to get the cheaper one and hope it is as good as factory ones:pray:With the expeditied o…

Does this look like a stock intercooler?I read stock ones have plastic ends and I don't know just curious

Does any one know the size of the 2 bottom boots on the inter cooler? Best I can tell they are 3.5" X 3" 45* boots. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Anyone know who makes the oem intercooler? I think I read somewhere it was Valeo? VALEO 817151 I think mine is leaking somewhere, need to do a boost leak test next weekend to verify, and I can't justify spending almost $900 for a Mishimoto, the cheapest one, when I can get oem for $400. Correct me if I'm wrong, but an aftermarket intercooler isn't going to net me much of anything with 100hp injectors, super b, quadzilla xzt and not towing really heavy.

I was towing the 5th wheel yesterday to get it set up for the wife and kids to camp in, and while I was going up a hill I lost turbo boost and my EGTs went up. Pulled over and discovered that the first intercooler boot had blown off of the intermediate pipe. My guess was that the clamp wasn't tight enough or had backed off, so I put it back on, went back at it and half hour later it came off again! Hasn't come on since, but it did seem like it was a little stretched out. I'm thinking I should replace the boots. All I've found is Vulcan or factory boots. Which should I go with? I have a BD Modified HX35, which I believe is essentially an HX35/45 Hybrid. …

So upon putting things back together on my truck after the vacuum pump rebuild, I think it is time for new IC boots and clamps.. I don't have the truck here today and am wanting to look at all my options. Does anyone know the sizes of the boots and clamps? Also if you have replaced yours and like or don't like anything about what you replaced with, please share that too.. Thank you

I have a 02 Cummins H.O. and I bought new 4 ply silicone intercooler boots that are rated 80psi working and 240psi burst. I ordered new t-bolt spring clamps but the idiot sent me regular t-bolt clamps without the spring. He is sending me replacements but they wont get here till Monday and this weekend is really the only time in the near future I will have to change these. I have a BD turbo elbow, BD boost fooler, BHAF mod, glasspacked 3" exhaust and hypertech. So not really putting too much over stock for psi. Should I just put the regular t-bolt clamps on or wait for the spring clamps? Thanks

If anyone would like to update their intercooler clamps to the spring style. I have all the mopar part numbers. I don't think they change the springs to this style until 2002. 6 Small clamps 52028980aa 2 large clamps 52028979aa 1 intercooler pipe 52027990aa 1 intercooler pipe 52027516ab 2 intake pipes 52027815ab