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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. I'm disabled & have to send out virtually all work. I have an original maker AirDog... out of warentee because if how I bought it... mounted to the frame rail. I like the mechanical pumps but am afraid I can't send something that complicated to a shop. Wife has the truck... broken down in Vt. So I have to make choices, long distance. I'm going to have to deal with it tomorrow.

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  2. Does the Edge Juice or Comp still allow Torque Managment to de-fuel

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  3. Started by WesHawkins,

    Hello guys, haven't been on in a while but now that the house repairs are done for a few months I thought I would do some things to my 2000 CTD. I am thinking of getting a performance tuner and this will hopefully not open a big can of worms and arguments, not my intention. I have a 2000 Dodge CTD that is stock with the exception of a 4 inch exhaust. Thinking about installing a exhaust brake for towing our travel trailer. I am also thinking about installing an engine tuner and am looking for ideas and suggestions on which one to get. I'm looking at the Edge tuners. Any thoughts? I don't want to install any high flow injectors or a high performance Injector pumps…

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  4. My 98.5 cummins has been in the shop for 8 days now and each day reveals a new problem. Took her in after a few hard starts where there seemed to be a loss of prime. The day before the shop appointment the oil pressure gauge suddenly dropped, then went immediately back to normal. I was a mile from home so I decided to limp her home, the oil pressure dropped to zero and then jumped back to normal as I pulled away from the intersection stop. Acceleration seemed to keep the oil pressure in the normal range. Anyway, I ger her to the shop who seems to start throwing parts at the problems. They replaced the oil pressure sensor and said the injector connector pencil o-ring…

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    • 26 replies
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  5. Started by rburks,

    anybody ever heard of this . Or does anybody have one???http://gopointtech.com/products/. from the info on the website it sounds like it be pretty sweet

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  6. Started by CTcummins24V,

    I'm going to replace the vibration damper (harmonic balancer) this weekend and was wondering if it is directional or has to be aligned with a mark anywhere? When I resealed my timing cover a couple years ago I just slapped it back on and torqued to spec, but I figured I'd ask the genesius this time. It's an oem cummins, can't run anything else with the fuel boss... Thanks John

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  7. Started by jlwelding,

    I have never had one die but here's whats happing. It shuts off just like you turned the key off and back on in a split second. It did it about 10 times in two miles. I have been hauling heavy off and on for about two weeks. I mean my foot in it climbing hills and such with about 29k combo weight. Another thing my boost will only climb to 21 and takes for ever to get there. EGTS wont get above 1000. Now the only thing I am running is the boost elbow that came with the old Edge EZ, you would think it would be better than that. I have just been driving like grand paw for the past year or so but am back to custom baling for the public. I didn't know it was so low on HP. This…

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    • 8 replies
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  8. Started by mariner,

    Hi Guys, Just thought I would mention what I have just recently gone through. My fuel gauge line is connected to a small needle vale on the fuel pump and over time, the gauge needle valve has vibrated open. I started to hear this tick while driving and thought I had an exhaust manifold leak. Kept looking and checking and found nothing out of the ordinary. This went on for a while and I was getting frustrated and concerned due to the exhaust burning metal away at the gasket area. One day I happen to watch the fuel gauge as I booted it to pull away in traffic and the gauge needle jumped in time with the "tick" - ahh I thought, has to be the gauge line valve. Adjuste…

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  9. Please post things you might want to buy. Please no PM's until I decide what to do and so that we can keep first come first serve. I just want to see if it's worth parting out right now. These have already been asked. I think they are hazed over like typical lights but the rest is ok. I'll check and report back. Correct. 02 is all mine.

  10. Can this be due to a bad IAT sensor?

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  11. Started by moostang,

    Has anyone heard of Rotomaster turbo rebuild kits. Rock Auto sells them for about $35. Thinking of trying one mine is starting to get a little oil past the seals.

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  12. Hey guys, Im looking for any recs on a 12 volt switched wire to hook my 2low kit up to that is convenient under the dash. I was thinking of going with the upper cig lighter, but if there are any that are easier to get to id entertain the feedback. Thanks.

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  13. Started by Nates1999,

    So I've got 4th gear hunt on my truck. It is intermittent. I've had the alternator tested every which way and it always comes out good, be it bench testing, on car etc. It's also pretty new. I've gone ahead and done that ATS fix to bypass the ECM, but immediately threw a p0123. I did an apps reset, tried to clear the code and still there. Truck runs ok, but I'm at a loss. I'm supposed to roll out for my trip on Sunday. Any thoughts?

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  14. So I'm getting ready to put in my new pump and really don't want to screw up the keyway. I know putting superglue on the key is recommended, and I'm wanting to do that, but my key is really on the pump shaft pretty firmly. Should I yank it out to superglue it or dab glue on the corner where the key and shaft meet?

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  15. I have a rough procedure up and mostly completed, just need to put in torque specs and sequence of a few things and its done. this will get you from a bare block to an assembled block ready to go in the truck. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/481-24v-cummins-rebuild-step-by-step?hitcount=0

  16. Started by dobienut,

    Been noticing a change in the sound of my truck the last month or so but still working the same, no smoke, no hard starts etc. Tonight I got dead pedal about 5-6 times when towing my trailer. Did the odmometer read and its showing the 216 code which I know what it means. My question is this..each time I got dead pedal I looked and I'm still holding 17-19 psi with no drop. Only drop I see in pressure is now at an idle im at 12-13 instead of the usual 16psi. Is dead pedal normal when holding good psi? Calling around about pumps tomorrow unfortunatley

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  17. Started by rburks,

    Today, after FLUSHINg P/S System, i Pulled of my 4-yr old BHAF Air Filter to replace with new, When i pulled Boot off of turbo, there it was,, the Compressor wheel blades were Damaged, "Not wiped out" but few of the edges of blades are frayed up pretty good, but there's no excessive play in the shaft and the blades hasn't been rubbing the housing.... im trying to post pictures

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  18. Started by Crooked7s,

    Hi guys, Concerning my truck below in my signature.....When driving the truck in any Edge tune, the truck is hard to rev above 2000 rpms. This is while driving normal and not hotrodding the truck. If I floor the truck, sure it will rev up beyond 2000rpm, but during normal driving the truck accelerates nicely until 2000rpm then just falls on it's face while maintaining my pedal position. This is even more noticable while towing a trailer. It's hard to get my rpm's up to grab the next gear. I have experimented with all Edge tunes and doesn't seem to matter. My boost appears to be fine. EGT's are good. BTW, i am only getting 16mpg highway or city. Time for …

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  19. Started by JAG1,

    Anyone know why I would have my power steering fluid overflowing? All was fine for 3 weeks without driving it (Driveway statue) and then one hot day it's coming out the cap. With truck sitting idle for 3 weeks, suddenly the fluid is at the top and overflowing.

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  20. So my alternator wire is pretty ragged. I'm talking about the one that runs from the fuse to the alternator. I would really like to replace it, or at least fix it up a bit, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if it is actual straight wire, or a fusible link. I'm thinking it's straight wire as it has a fuse in line too. My thought is to have a new run made up with new ends, and either cut out the old wire from the harness or simply route new alongside. Thoughts? I'm thinking it's either 6 or 4 ga wire. Anyone know?

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