2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

For the second time in three years I believe my ECU is headed south. A few weeks ago the truck didn't want to start. I checked the grid heater and had more than the recommended resistance between the terminals. I had power to the relays with the wait to start light just no power coming out. Fusible links are good. Now the problem as I understand it is I have 12 volts to the relays with the wait to start light on. When the wait light goes out, I should have zero volts to the relays. I have seven. If I have more than zero it sould be the ECU according to the service manual. I now have IAT sensor voltage codes, fuel calibration error codes, etc. Now the million dol…

Will the member please come forward that sent me the VP44...

Just a quick question I hope. I was wiring up a 5 pin relay to have on toggle switch from IAT sensor to 2.2ohm resistor. On accident I touched 12v positive from battery to IAT wire, so basically I sent 12 v to ECM from one of sensor wires. ( i cut blue one in half and piggybacked to black) I haven't started truck yet and it's getting really cold out too I might wait till end of week to start. But with key on and switch off I get 143f on IAT gauge and if I flip switch on I get ambient temp of intake. I figured ill wire it up this way so the relay is not energized when I'm fooling IAT, most of time it will be fooled anyway so I'll use relay to switch to IAT only for warm up…

As the title states, someone gave me a Cummins engine for free.... the gent is an old friend of mine and having to move out of a warehouse where he has been storing years of stuff, from MIG airplane parts to just plain misc stuff. He told me about this last week and I drove over with the trailer and we loaded it up today. Its a Cummins 6BT5.9-g5 engine. Fairly complete but it has some "ventilation" in each side of the block where a connecting rod came loose. Reason I wanted it was hoping that it had an injection pump and giblets that might be worth saving, then would just scrap the rest. Getting it back to the shop I find that it is evidently a "stationary running…

I'm looking for oppinions, which guage would be the best all around? AutoMeter Ultra Lite Digital # 6545 or AutoMeter Ultra Lite Electric/ Needle #4344 I am looking for the most accurate and easy to read. Any oppinions will be appreciated, Kerley

I have a nv4500 that is making a noise in 4th gear when slowing down between 1000-1300 rpms it was rebuilt 2k miles ago it has a southbend clutch its not a grinding or clunk sound more like a bearing ? Could it also be the harmonics in that gear when slowing down ? My damper wobbles a little need help !!!

I've been away for a long while but I've been busy. It's that time again..... Time for another VP44 and lift pump. I've been looking around and CPP seems to be where you get the most bang for your buck. This is what I was considering. Would anybody advise different??? I don't want to go with thoroughbred diesel again and I can't afford a blue chip pump. My main concern is the fass lift pump since their VPs have all new electronics. Are they legit? Anybody have any experiences (good or bad) with CPP??? Thanks in advance. http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/vp44fasscombo.html

Hello, I have a 01 cummins auto, only mods are 75Hp injectors, and a fass. I just had a new injection pump installed, however the problem was there before this. When the truck is put into gear from P or N, it stalls. It will fire right back up, and when you get it to stay running, it acts as if it's under a load. When put back into park from Drive or reverse if it stays running, the RPM's jump up as if I tapped the throttle. Anyone know what this could be? Thanks in advance!

Hello I am replacing my Vp44, I own a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 5 speed with the S.O. Isb 5.9 cummins. Is there any way that I can put a 17x (found only in the 6speeds) vp44 injection pump on the motor or do I have to find a 15x S.O injection pump And if I did put a 17x pump on the s.o. motor what could go wrong?

I have a 47re automatic transmission and about 1-2months ago lost over drive, so at 55mph Im riding at 3k rpms. I have to take back roads every where lol. I have a beater for now to get around over 40mph. I am wanting to swap my automatic for a stick. I live in Strongsville, Ohio which is between Cleveland and Akron on the westside. Any one know a place within 3-4 hours where they would have everything I need? Thanks in advance for the help, and Happy New Year!

Has anyone put one of the Fass electric heater kits in an Airdog FP-100? It looks like it will screw in next to the supply line from the tank above the water separator. With my Airdog exposed under the truck, even with anti-gel additive, it will gel up driving down the road. It was -17 this morning and I made it about 1.5 miles to the store fine. I left it running and ran in for 3-4 minutes and when I got back in it started loping real bad and I noticed the fuel pressure was Zero. I shut it down, then limped it around to the back of the building out of the way so I could deal with it after it warmed up some. I finally got the fuel flowing about 2:00 PM and got it home…

I read so many thing about that i got a p0341 and i think my trouble is the cam gear that read a differente things dose anyone have alraidy done this and cam i juste change the cam gear and the cover or i have to change the hole cam? Or its more simple to take the 98.5 wiring and swap it in my 01 please help me im pist off that i bought a truck like this

Rock Auto shows four different headlight switches for my Ram, is there really any difference between the four offered and which one would you buy?

Anybody happens too have a good how to video on installing the draw straw. Ink finally going to poor it on tomorrowand I can find the instructions anywhere.

Hello all, I have a Isspro oil pressure gauge(R17211) due to arrive hopefully Monday and wanted to know if I could mount it on the drivers side in what I believe is an oil gallery. I have been looking at threads on the forums and most I find most are about the CR's. Looking to see if this is what I think it is and if it is has anyone used this as a location for the sender. Otherwise I will use the port on the oil cooler/filter housing.

Yesterday I installed a boost gage on my truck. One wire needed to be connected to a 12v ignition power wire. I spliced the wire into the red wire coming down from the ignition. When I did this sparks ignited. I disconnected the splice but now when I try and start the truck there is no power. Nothing. Any ideas out there? Thanks for the time fellas.

Is it possible that my timing is advanced all the time? In other words if the sensor (name eludes me) has failed, can it stay in advance all the time? I keep thinking that my truck sounds advanced all the time? When I install the fooler, if the sensor is faulty will fooler retard the timing when set to mpg?

Well folks, for the 3rd time in 4 years my VP-44 is throwing codes. Both the PO216 and P1698 now... Was hard to start for a bit but now thats cleared up but its now smoking badly when I put my foot into it and thought I saw some white smoke while driving it home yesterday. This is after I spent over $1000 to help prevent this from ever happening again. An Air Dog 165 fuel pump with dual filters along with the Vulcan big line kit from the tank to the VP pump, as well as an Edge W/Attitude to monitor the fuel pressure and an alarm should the fuel pressure ever get below 15 psi. The fuel pressure has never gone below 12 psi (it usually sets at 18-19 psi) and the filters…

Wednesday i drove my truck around all day with no problems. I pulled up to Dollar General about 2 miles from my house, got my stuff and came back out to go home and the truck wouldn't start. It just turned over. Tried multiple times but no start, just keeps turning over. So i called a buddy to come tow me home. I'd say about 10 minutes later as i was waiting on him, i tried to start it again and it fired right up with no problem. So i drove it home and shut it off, started it again with no problems sitting in my drive way. Friday morning it started up with no problems, drove it about 10 miles and came back home. Truck sat for about an hour, I go out to start it up an…

I have a Holset WH1C (HX35 essentially) 56/60/14 and am looking at upgrading to a 58mm compressor wheel. Does anyone know what diameter the compressor housing needs to be machined to accept this wheel, before I call BAE? I tried a 60mm wheel and cover previously but it surged so bad I sold it. The WH1C doesn't have the MWE (map width enhancement) slot that the HX has, probably another factor in the surging. I figured for $70 and some machining, a 58mm upgrade would be a good experiment. Stock 56mm Wheel http://baeturbosystems.com/compressorwheelformitsubishitd04hl4350mminducer-5600mmexducer-3-1-1-1-1.aspx 58mm Upgrade http://baeturbosystems.com/compressorwheelfo…