2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well, this morning after changing my fuel filters i was in the process of jumping power from the battery to the plug for my raptor to bleed the air out of the system when i had a brain fart and grabbed the plug for my deleted fuel heater instead. There was a spark and immediately put the CEL on. So i grabbed my smarty and checked the codes...p0222 idle validation...p0113 IAT sensor voltage high p0118 ECT sensor voltage highp0238 MAP sensor highp01693 companion code I figured i just blew those sensors so i went and picked up a new ect,map,and iat sensor and installed them, cleared the codes with my smarty and lo and behold those codes pop back up again. So in desperatio…

Who is running 85-140 in their rear axle? I have Valveline Dura blend 85-140 in my 99 dodge and ran regular Valveline 85-140 in my 31 year old Chevy K20 for last 20 yearsI called Valveline tech to see what % of friction modifyer they put in their gear oil marked "limited slip" because im going to change my oil. The tech guy had a interesting comment about gear oil weights. Ha !

I update my APPS sensor page to include a waning about voltage adjustment. There is a lot of people saying to adjust the voltage. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm

So why is it I always have that model that is the "different" one? After putting a new DDRP on the truck in fall and still not having good FP and VP death code, I put out the $ and had new VP put on. Truck runs great...but still ____ poor FP. I was lucky to see 13 at idle and I could pull it to 3 at WOT. Talked to boys at geno's. Sent me new DDRP spring...should increase FP...installed it and it did....but Im still draining to 5 .... so the guys tell me to swap filter and run a bucket test (pull from a fuel can right off the DDRP). I have to be pulling air. I tear it down and I just dont like the idea of the DDRP install.I had put in a draw staw at the tank som…

Driving down the road and the Tach drops to zero, truck bucks like no fuel then maybe does it again then runs fine and always starts on first hit. Fp idle 22, wot 18, oil pressure cold 95+ warm 180* 75* . Worries me that possibly leave me stranded somewhere. Any Ideas? 1998.5 Dodge / Cummins, 4x4, 5 speed, 202k miles, stock from factory except for Donaldson Filters and Fass DDRP lift pump and new inner cooler hoses, Batteries and Alt. two years old.

I inherited an edge comp when I bought my truck. The truck is basically stock and I can tell a difference when running the comp but not sure if Im getting the most out of it. I checked the wiring and everything appears to be correct. Should I be seeing any smoke? Truck seems to move pretty good I just dont have anything to compare it to.

So far i have check the following: 1.-check the relay it self by manually appling voltage and they work. 2.- confirm that the grownd side of the relay coil is not open 3.- At the connector comming from the ECM there is no voltage when set the ignition switch on Am I looking into a defective ecm?

5.9 Cummins 47RE No previous issues. Went out one morning, started the truck and trans was in 3rd gear limp mode. No low gear, No OD So I jumped the gun without diagnosing and just went ahead and Replaced the typical governor pressure sensor and transducer, however issue remained the same. Started testing wires and found pin#1 on transmission connector does not have 12v with engine running like it should. Thought problem was PCM. So I sent it out to be rebuilt and they tested it and said it was good and had no issues when testing it. I Re-installed PCM and issue remained the same. I tried a jumper wire in the distribution …

The root issue I am having is I am getting the APPS low voltage code. How I realized there was an issue is my BD exhaust brake intermittently will not work at low rpms (and it changes minute to minute what rpm it will cut out at, but usually around 1000 rpms). I checked codes through my Edge Insight and got the APPS low voltage code. So right now, I am leaning towards thinking it is alternator related, but my initial quick test in the parking lot at work doesn't agree with that. I'm going to break up my post into each little point, otherwise I ramble on a long confusing paragraph. Previously, my exhaust brake acted up my batteries tested as being poor to m…

I've been driving my 02 3500 6speed dually for a year and I have yet to appreciate these stupid flip up mirrors. Am I the only one who feels this way? Visibility just blows regardless of flipped up for towing or tucked down in granny mode. I'm tempted to take them off and put the old school mirrors on. Has anyone tried modifying these mirrors? Thanks!

I have a 98 24 valve.. Just put a new fuel filter,v44 and fuel pump in the tank carried it to the local dealer...the work was done about 1000 miles ago... Since that time i have noticed it ideling a little ruff sorta of like a plug wire sparking off.. even though it doesnt have wires or plugs.... at times it runs smoth as always seems like it happens more when it's raining i can't get it to show any error codes.....the truck is stock except for the silencer ring and straight exhaust pipe... can any opne shed some light on what could be wrong????

Here's situation... coolant been in 4 yrs now, so time to change. Very little miles, maybe 100 miles in last 2 years due to wife cant get in truck because of medical problems. And I cant leave her attended to drive it around to get properly warmed up. And license tabs are also expired now. (Hell of a mess I'm in) So im thinking about a coolant system test (head gasket leak test) I'll have to idle about 1000 rpm with exhaust brake on. Never since 2005 when we got our 2001 excessively idled. Or should I forget pressure test, and just change coolant? Or idling to get up temps enough for test is OK? I normally change coolant every 4 yrs. Wh…

The truck fell flat on her face, dead pedal. got a 0237 code. Checking out the forums I've seen the code called Map sensor, Boost sensor, Turbocharger sensor. I just want to confirm that they are all one in the same. I found the part on Rock Auto's website for $200 just want to make sure it is the right part. Or if anyone knows where to get it for less. Also, I've done the adjust APPS to correct voltage. Is this just a patch till the inevidible and should just be replaced? Thanks.'02 HO 3500 6sp airdog, mbrp, edge w/att, aem intake.

Got an SOS kit through CAT rental. Got the results back. Need help understanding the numbers...Lead: 1Copper: 2Iron: 23Chrome: 2Tin: 0 Nickel: 0Silver: 0Alumium: 11Silicon: 39Sodium: 10Potassium: 1Moly: 92Barium: 0Calcium: 1491Magnesium: 385Phosphorus: 1235Zinc: 1233Soot: 7Oxidation: 19Nitration: 9Sulfation: 22Visc 100c: 13.4Glycol: N/AFuel: N/AWater: NegativeDelo 400LE 15w40Comments: High Silicon indicates dirt entry into system. If you have already changed your oil, resample in 3k miles.What are the numbers measured in? PPM? Also, what do they mean dirt in system? How does this lead to a high silicon number? Do I need to changed my oil?

I have a 99 dodge ram 2500 with 24v cummins. A year or so ago I had an issue with my ECM. The throttle was stuck at 14%. I bought a new one through GO ECM DIESEL and it had a lifetime warranty. About 8 months after having the ECM my wait to start light wouldn't come on anymore. I put my buddy's ecm on my truck and the light and grid heaters worked fine. Mind you I've always had to wait for the wait to start light to go out before the truck would start, ever since I've owned it. I've owned it for about 2 years now. When I first got the ecm it would start fine with the WTS light on. After a while it was back to waiting until it shut off to start the truck. Then my grid heat…

Hey guys, I've looked around for a little bit on this and haven't found too much so I was curious what exactly the advantage is of switching to a draw straw. I've looked at the Vulcan products and they seem fairly priced and easy to do, just wondering if it is worth it, or what the main purpose is to make this move. Thanks! Austin

Well after 190k mile's nearly 170k with a fifthwheel behind it my stock clutch died last monday. After i vacumed the inside, cleaned with wipe's, washed the truck, hand dried it, waxed it, and went for a sunday drive down by the river got to the bridge before the turn gearded down to 3rd and hit the clutch to downshift to second pedal went to the floor.... had to ride 3rd gear for about a mile till i could safely pull over. After a few not PG-13 word's and praying i called for some help home. I was gonna haul it but, my angry was alittle high had to start the truck in gear and just speed shifted it home (Not a good idea but i was that mad) lol So i contacted thoroughbred …

I bought the truck 3 years ago and never noticed the WTS light didnt work but it still started and worked fine. I rebuilt the top end last summer and after that the WTS light started working normally. About a month ago I realized the starter was going bad because it would just click but if I tried it once or twice again it would start, a few weeks later I was planning on going on a camping trip so I swapped the starter for a new one, I disconnected the batteries when doing so but at the end I tightened the top bolt last and then hooked up the batteries, I recall hooking up the batteries then making sure the bottom bolts were tight and arking the wrench on the positive t…

Silly question why doesn't this trick come stock. Why do we have to add all the stuff we do to make things better? Can't they make things to get the best gpms. So if I get the fooler I will need to have the re flash of the computer to have it work right if it hasn't already been done.

Anyone know the part number for this shift lever bushing?