2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Ok Gang...I've got a project on a 2002 Dodge Cummins 2500 (no not mine). I've installed a fuel pressure gauge it holding 15-16 PSI at idle and about 11-12 PSI at WOT but at low speeds that I've seen. Here is the problem the codes have P0216 code present no others but its got a partial dead pedal. You can mat the pedal to the floor and it barely rolls along at 5-15 MPH then all of sudden like the ECM or the VP44 wakes up and hang on she powering up. There is no codes for APPS sensor so I'm not considering the APPS sensor. But now I know that 2 cases of ECM failure I seen where the throttle is limited (CajFlynn is one of them). Knowing both the ECM and VP44 are $1,000 dolla…
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Just wondering how many people have done Mikes crankcase vent. I knew about the vent problem and his inexpensive repair but put it off until my radiator looked like this; So I cleaned my radiator, intercooler, engine...and added Mikes upgrade and haven't had a problem since. Also, my truck doesn't smell like oil after an oil change like it used to.
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First off let me explain the reason for high idle functions. The 24 valve Dodge Cummins trucks tend to burn must cooler because of the extra valves in the head. But in the cool winter time temp it's possible for the combustion temperatures to fail low enough to cause tar formation on the valves and cause them to stick. This in turn will bend the pushrods cause some serious damage. Dodge has a TSB bulletin to correct this problem by flashing the ECM and enabling the existing software for high idle. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=umXz_xGxank http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0Ah9nK3ahc http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=il7iJCKfmaE Design Reasons The reas…
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Instead of starting a new thread I figured I would try here...... I picked up a snow plow for a friend the other night. It was about a 20 minute ride and the temp got a little over 190* possibly right around 210*-220* , and the outside temp around 45-55*. I've already relocated the puke bottle and cleaned the radiator. Just wondering if anybody has run into this ,although when it is cold enough to snow I have a feeling this may not happen.
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I've been adding 2 cycle oil to my VP-44 and my wife's 12V since 2001, 8 years now. Pulled the injectors once and they looked exactly as expected. No evil 2 cycle "gum" buildup.Now to the interesting part: I bought another used 3500 2001 with 117,000 miles. Shortly there afterwards, I started getting low power periods and P1693 (?), the code for "internal timing error". I didn't have the time or money to replace the VP at that time. So I experimented with heavy dosing of 2 cycle oil in the fuel. <100:1 mix ratio. I was able to drive the truck several more months before replacing the VP.My son didnt believe me about 2 cycle oil, his VP died at about 150,0…
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I been using 2 cycle oil when I'm not running B20. Found another comparison run by diesel heads that tends to confirm, again, that it is not a bad idea to be using a little 2stroke oil. http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728
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Ok guys messin with the nv4500 some more and noticed that when the 2nd gear shift collar is slid in to 2nd gear it has alot of movement meaning it is easy to move back to the edge of the teeth on the 2nd gear is this normal ive serched for answers or videos and cant find the answer and would like to know before i put the top cover on
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Guys thanks for the suggestions on my previous thread of which chip to run. I towed my 28' 5th wheel this weekend and I took the Super Chip out and ran it stock. Honestly, it sucked!! Lacked power. I wasnt smart enough to take the Super Chip with me and load the tow safe mode when towing back today. I did get a error code though. P0234 I think it was Turbo overboost condition. What causes this and how to prevent it??? --- Update to the previous post... Oh yeah, by the way, the truck ran fine all the way home.
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@Mopar1973Man @Me78569 @Quadzilla Marco @Quadzilla Power Replaced both fenders this weekend so i had a lot of crap pulled loose. Quad set on default tune level 3. This morning on interstate truck wont go over 2000 rpm, wont build over 8 psi boost, feels like a complete dog. Power level bar was green then turned red after warm-up. Noticed power level bar go yellow a couple times while driving. Switched to power level 0 and truck drove normal. Checked all settings, changed tunes, switched back to default and still is a pig. Can't data log with my tablet. Couldn't get quad to connect to my phone to data log. Any ideas on what i screwed up?
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I did some trading today and got a hx35 with a pacbrake exhaust flange and cylinder. Said it was from a 96 3500 with 120k. Can't feel any shaft play at all and spins free. Theres no spot on the compressor housing for a boost elbow. The butterfly is stuck and i haven't tested the cylinder yet, its vacuum. If i can get this thing freed up what all will i have to do to put it on the truck? I think i found the right install manual but haven't had time to really get into it.
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I've got 198,500 on mine and still rolling. Running 16-21 pressure and 2'cycle oil.
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I bought a 1999 4x4 auto with about 104,000 miles a couple years ago which idled fine, but when under any load would smoke alot .... no modifications. I did not know any better and thought it had O.K. power until I rode in someone else's 24v. Well I looked for everything that would cause smoke. Ended up being a bad injector, replaced with RV 275's and now have good power.My question is, would me running the truck for about 15,000 miles, and I don't know how long before I bought it with bad injectors, cause issues with longevity of the motor. The truck now has 170,000 and runs fine and does not blow oil.Also the short block only had about 40,000 miles when I bought it.Sor…
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Has any one used the polyurethane motor mount inserts? Are thay worth it I'm starting to get more motor movement but after 16 years I figure the mount rubber is getting tired as well as the trans mount
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Anyone ever removed the inner sections of the motor mount? I'm going to be replacing them with the poly inserts from Genos or from polybushings.com I have engine out and mounts off of engine. I assume they are just pressed in, and I need to press out?
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Both sides are loose. Drivers side lifts right out. Passenger side is stuck. Trying to lift engine to pull the pan.
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Motor quit while idling, cranks over but won't start, no power to fuel transfer pump and injector pump, code displayed [ no bus] on onboard system check. Help.
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So I know there was a thread on this back in 2016 but reading into the document it looks like the guy who made the thread never really did the swap just stated what he thought needed to be done so bringin this back i have an 02 6 speed truck which unfortunately has snapped the crank ripping the main caps out and cracking the block, and me not knowing it was a headache to swap ended up snagging a 99 motor for it, well instead of loosin my you know what on trying to sell this damn thing and finding another has anyone done this successfully without it being a huge headache again i am trying to put a 98.5 24v in the 02 chassis, thanks again!
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Hello to all! While I frequent another forum I am new to this one. I stumbled across it and it looks like a really good site. There is a wealth of info. just on the home page! The format is easy to navigate and answers alot of questions without having to look any further. Big thanks to Mopar1973Man for setting this up!!I am looking for an answer to a question I have been asking. The truck in my sig. has a cracked 53 and I have a motor waiting on me and warmer weather to put it in. My truck is an auto. and the motor came from a manual truck. My motor tag says 215 HP and the replacement says 235. The replacement has a fairly new VP44 on it so I thought I'd keep it if I can.…
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Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn’t move my ecm to inside the cab or the firewall? My engine harness is out of the truck getting improvements and I have a second wiring harness that I was using to help diagnose my ecm issue. I realized I could use the second harness to extend the length of my current one. There is room on the firewall under the brake master cylinder or in the cab under passenger dash. Only alterations besides splicing I can think of is I would have to make more twisted pairs of the water in fuel(not used) and oil pressure sensor wires since they are the shortest and exit right by ecm. There are also 2 shielded pairs (vp44 and Cummins bus). The Cu…
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Mike, This is my friends truck that I'm checking out now, he had posted this comment on another forum. (see below).I have a 2002 Dodge ram 2500 diesel that I am pulling a map and iat sensor code on. My mechanic thinks it is the ECM but is not sure. I only have about 1/4 of the pedal and then nothing happens after that. If anyone has had this problem and could help me I would appreciate it. Thanks Mike, I'll have to post this in a series since it has a bunch of info on it.Mike, all this took place before I actually had a chance to do any of the diagnostic testing listed below. This is what happened before I got my hands on this truck. Every one who or where he has drove th…
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