2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So my Cummins 53 block with 387,000 and change lost compression along with other issues in cylinder 5 and 6 this still stems from the previous post about injection pump failure. I intend to rebuild so looking at options 1- find 24 valve non 53 donor rebuild and install or if in good enough shape don't rebuild 2- buy a 12 valve rebuild with donor parts from 24 valve pistons head and such and make p-pumped 24 valve. Right now it seems cheaper and an overall better option to go for number 2. Tell me what you guys and gals think I need to make a wise choice here the next 400k depend on it.... lol

Been having some trouble shifting gears lately. Leave out in the mornings and shifts fair to good. Get some heat in every thing and l have mash the pedal into the floor pretty good to shift. I replaced the oe master cylinder back 2008 but it was leaking by and creeping on me and then failed all together. That one was fun since l couldn't find any way to bleed it and didn't know any better. Did the best I could but still had some air in it. It took about 3 weeks of driving and a lot clutch pumping but finally settled out and has been working fine until a 3 or 4 months ago when this started. I had a replacement here and today would be good to swap it in. So goo…

I have a buddy who will sell me a Superchips d-box for around $100. Are they any good? I don't need a whole bunch more power, just a bit more than stock is fine.

My truck has consistently eaten coolant since I've owned it, 65k miles or so. If it isn't leaking (can't see or smell it), is it possible for the coolant to find its way into the combustion chamber but not have exhaust gas get into coolant? 1/4 - 1/2 gallon a month, new radiator and obviously coolant last summer. Coolant looks new (not surprising considering how much I add).

was wondering if anyone had a suggestion on which exhaust brake to use on my green hulk....and if anyone might b able to tell me if this is an easy install( like do it in the driveway with a beer and and a few friends easy) or if its more complicated than that? I was also wondering which system would be the least expensive but still b reliable

My 1998.5 Cummins is stock except for the air cleaner. I am not sure that my turbo is working as it should. I have the Auto Meter fp,op, and would like to add a Boost guage. When I haul a heavy load it is usually Hay Rolls or Cattle. My question is...Does the Boost guage indicate that the Turbo is working? and is it necessary to install a pyrometer guage as well. What guage range should I get. Pyro 0-1600 or 0-2000. Boost ..0-35...or..0-60.?

So I've been trying to get my truck going, and it's been hell. I bought a set of 150hp injector tips, and used the pop tester at school to set the pop off pressures (all were at or just under 4500psi,stock recommended pressure), put them in along with new o-rings, and copper washers. I got the truck started, and it idles great. But as soon as I roll on the throttle, it pops, sputters, tons of smoke. Its been doing this, and I've pulled it apart about three times checking to make sure I didn't rip or tear any o-rings during assembly. So far everything looks good, everything is torqued to spec. Fuel pressure is a steady 20 psi. Do I suspect the injection …

when I'm cruising with my cummins at a constant speed close to the range where my tranny should be shipping gear,my rpm goes up & down roughly 200 to 300.what controls the shifting is it a vaccum set up or electric?This does it any time I'm cruising in the range it should be shifting.I checked my fuel pressure it's roughly at 12 psi constant no fluctuation.I was thinking maybe a vaccum leak or low voltage.The rpm fluctuates more when shifting to overdrive and keeping a constant speed 45 mph,anything over 55 mph no fluctuation.It you keep a constant speed in the shiftihg range of any gear rpm fluctuates,worst when going to overdrive.If I'm pulling a load there is no sl…

Its supposed to get down to 0 here in Tx. Will two stroke keep it from gelling?

As some of you know I just had to replace my VP. Install when wel except the installer forgot his head was not just for putting a haton. Got thru that,all is running well. The truck runs a good bit smoother and quieter idling and cruising. It's still a 24v so accelarating thru the gears is another matter. The main reason for posting this for the purchase thru @dieselautopower. When I ordered the pump I asked for and paid for overnight shipping. It came to me Fedex ground in 2 days. When I realized that it was not overnighted the next I contacted DAP about it and they said they would look into it. I left it alone since there was not much one could do about it at the…

Two part title because 1: I have been MIA from the site for quite a while and have now returned. Not a big deal. but Its good to be back as I have only looked around some in the last few months I think. Haven't contributed or posted anything in a while. 2: I just found out my leak at the fuel filter canister has RETURNED also. Now I have read numerous threads on this subject, but seems that no one has the same extending solution problem as I do So I thought I would ask your all's opinion on fixing vs replacing vs burning to the ground. JK on the last one. I replaced the o ring on it last year or maybe slightly longer. It has apparently given way agai…

So this morning the temp outside was 14° F and I went out to fire up the truck so she had time to warm up. It started but reluctantly. I am new to this diesel truck world other than the large semi trucks. This is how it went: Turned on key got the wait to start light, waited for it to go out and cranked the motor, as soon as she started to fire I let the key go, she died. Cycled the key, WTS light went out and cranked again. This time she fired I held the key to start a bit longer. Thought it started to run, she died. WTS light again, then cycled key, WTS light a second time, cranked til she took off. She ran then. Grid heaters are working from wha…

Two days ago my CHECK GAGES light came on and the volt gauge sunk to 8V. My USB plug showed 11.9 Volts yup it died. I got a new alternator and a day later it did it again. No error codes either. I checked my PCM protection fuse and sure enough the fuse fell out of the cover. I took a pair of pilers and squeezed the sockets closed again and it fixed. My alternator I've got now is a Bosch not a ND. Yeah make sure to check your fuse holder and be sure its not loose. It weird because mine is taped to the loom and not floppy around.

What do your guys's trucks do when you stab the throttle from idle? Yes I know I shouldn't do this but I'm wondering if what mine is doing is normal. Does yours just ramp up without any sort of hickup??

I have power loss sometimes. Sometimes going down the road empty I am at 50% throttle to do 70 mph and turning 1700 rpms this is when I have power loss. ALSO EGTS GO UP TO 1200 AND BOOST GOES UP TO 28 When running good I am at 23% throttle to do 70 mph 1700 rpms. boost 9 ish and egts 650 ish Things I have changed. All electronic sensors. Vp pump has about 20000 miles on it. Updated the programmer and re flashed the eco in the truck. This problem comes and goes. I can be driving down the road and all of a sudden it loses power. Then maybe the next time I drive the truck it will have power again but not always. Really not…

So, finally got the truck all ready to go since rebiild. I got 1100 trouble free miles on it. Been pushing it hard, trying to weed out any bugs or issues. Hook up the 5th wheel, get going down the road, 4 miles....4 #@&#$! miles... And I blow a freeze plug on right under turbo on the water jacket. 4 miles.... Now, before ya ask, yes, I replaced all the freeze plugs during the build. However, I had them done at the machine shop when the block was getting worked over. So, now what...roadside assistance got me home....but for some reason I don't think the answer is to just put in a new freeze plug and then "go see what happen…

Guys, I've gotten the go ahead from Mike to put out some feelers for an article that would be useful for us. Let's face it. The newest 2nd gens are a decade old. The oldest 12v rumbled off the line 17 years ago. Engine swaps, junk yard parts crawls and even "Parts Trucks" are going to become a part of our vocabulary, much like they did the Mopars of the 1960s. We need to put together a parts change article, or several articles to illustrate the changes from year to year on our trucks. Having a breakdown of the differences will let us go to the yard and know what will and won't work, and also having photos of all this stuff wouldn't be horrible either! Eventually, thi…

So i've been contemplating doing the switch mod for locking my TC. but i have one unanswered question. with the switch in the off position wiill the TC lock on it's on normally? then if i want to lock it then i cna flip the switch? right not mine works great. but there are times when i'd like some engine braking and other geek reasons to be able to manually lock and unlock it. Thank all.

Well its on and running:hyper:There is a noticeable difference, Lot's more power, No more code's (216):thumb1:Truck is quite abit smoother, Don't rattle as much, (this could be me)....................The fuel pressure is at 1 to 1 1/2 psilower than it was, Going to replace the almost new fuel filter, Just to see if thats it.Still at 12psi lowside,, was at 13/14, High was 16-18. Now 15-17.Thanks,,,,JKIDD.Later Ed

I know this has been talked about a 1000s times but I just want to clarify a couple things. The truck is a 2001 with a manual trans. Hot wired the pump and it started right up. Good possibility that the ecm is going to be my problem correct?