2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I went out and started my truck today, temperature out was about -12 C. I started it and it went up on high idle after about a minute, didn't go into 3 cyl...and after about 3-4 minutes of ruunning, it kicked itself out and went back to a normal idle. Temp gauge was showing 120 on my attitude monitor if I remember correctly. I even tried the high idle fooler, wouldn't go back into high idle. Shut the truck off and restarted it and still no high idle...flicked the fooler on agian in finally in about 3-4 after doing so, it reved back up to 1200 rpm. Surprised me that the high idle would stop when the engine was still cold, I've had warmer days that it worked flawlessly

I have a 2002 dodge 3500 24 valve Cummins 5 speed manual, got in it the other day to move it and it fires right up but noticed when I put it into first gear I have no throttle but idle, could this be a apps faulty ?

Hello all. I have just had an oil analysis done. I was hoping one of you-all could have a look and explain it to me. What all the numbers mean? What are the high and low limits of them?[ATTACH]4195[/ATTACH]Thanks again. The mileage is in KM eh!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm working on a home made ECM for my truck to go along with my VP44 project. I almost found an ECM today on a burned up truck but the wiring was burned all the way to the ECM so i figured it was toast. The guy wouldn't sell it, I would have to buy the motor and he said the VP44 was bad with hot start issues. He had a V10 (blown) dually that he was going to put the cummins in. He wanted me to buy both. If he had a manual tranny in the deal I would have took it. But I skipped it. The usual diagram that many of us use has some errors in the pin names and functions. From all my VP research I know many of the details of these pin functions and thought…

So I hauled a small trailer and some lawnmowers today and after I got everything unloaded I went to unhook the trailer well when I shut off the truck I can hear gurgling from the fuel tank. No pressure was relieved when I unscrewed the fuel cap but I can hear the fuel moving when it gurgles. Then it did it again when I got back home and parked it. Normal?

Good afternoon everyone, hope you all are doing well. I have a pretty good idea but wanted to get some more opinions on my VP44 issues. I immediately get 0216 and 1693 after I clear the codes and start the truck. Here is the good trail.... It drives just fine unloaded and even pulling when it's cool. but when the heat starts to build, it seems to heat soak and then starts cutting power. The hotter is gets (truck and weather) the worse it does it. I drove it unloaded to work at 4 am this morning, ran like a dream. I never have less that 14 PSI, mostly 15-16 of fuel pressure. Seems to me it's pretty clear the magic computer box on the VP44 is getting hot and crap…

I have a 2000 CTD 2WD and have had problems with the pressure line leading from the trans to the rt side of the motor, to what seems like a water to oil heat exchanger, the lines then go to the cooler and back to the trans. The problem is at the flange of the line where it attaches to the "exchanger" fitting. I have had 2 of these lines crack in the same place. Has anyone else experienced this and how did you fix it permanently?

I changed injectors last Friday and over tightened the 2 bolts in the back that has the injection lines on them. The gasket must have been a bit brittle and split and blew out. I only removed the lines to 1,2,4, and the plate came out the front. Now the problem that I see is getting the plate and the gasket back in there together. I was wondering if it would be a problem if I put something like silicon or grease or gasket shellac to hold the gasket in place or is it a no sealer type of gasket.

According to this TSB http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm This can be enabled, I am not sure it applies to the Freightliner though? I might give Cummins North East a call on Monday, and see if the could perform this flash to my ECM? I never heard of it, until it was mentioned on CF.

I am installing a new Edge Juice with Attitude in my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500. The kit comes with a new Boost Elbow, but my turbo has the hard line between the tubo and the waste gate actuator. All it said in the manual is that on some trucks you can't install the elbow. What affect will this have? I read something in a thread about installing a turnbuckle on the WGA, but when I searched for more information, noting came up. I am assuming that you are installing it on the rod from the WGA to the WG and using the turnbuckle to adjust the psi the WG opens at. Is this worth doing? The truck is basically stock, BHAF and 4" exh but no other HP mods. Thanks for any help …

Replacing the Airtex with an FRRP 100. The Airtex pump does away with the factory line that has a banjo type setup and just uses the quick connect fitting. I need this line for my FRRP to work but it is expensive....are there any cheaper alternatives? Assuming the P.O. just threw it out with the factory pump. I wish Airdog did the same as Airtex and did away with the banjo setup. Part number 8 in the photo....the line that has the support bracket on it.

Ok, so I was playing with quadzilla (going through settings and such), and decided to try my high idle again. Every time I've tried it in the past, it would shut the truck down, then the truck wouldn't start for about a minute. It would repeat this until I turned the setting off. I tried again today just to see,setting it at 10 seconds, and the truck started to idle up, but then died again. What's going on?

2002 2500 with I think factory tow package has both 4 pole and 7 hooks up. The 4 way works like it should. Turn signals and brakes. The 7 way only had turn signals and brake light brake box wouldn't come on either. Checked the 40 amp fuse under the hood for the trailer and it was bad swapped it out. Brake box worked and had running lights. Then the ground wire on the trailer was smoking and my third brake like was stuck on till we unhooked trailer. What is wired wrong on this truck? It ain't the trailer. I think something was odd about dodge wiring but I cant recall what. Any help is appreciated.

Okay, so I got geared up with some extra tools to do my injectors. Got an evercraft crofoot set from napa for $11! They looks like some good tools. Then I got myself a 1/2" to 3/8"s adapter for my torque wrench. I did get an inch pound torque wrench, but it was useless to have. It went from 120in/lbs to 960in/lbs. My 1/2" goes from 10ft/lbs to 150ft/lbs. Since the crossover tubes and lines hooking to it are 28ft/lbs, can I get away with doing 10ft/lbs on the injector clamp bolt? Or maybe just set it at 10ft/lbs and then stop a little before it clicks? Now, I still need to get o-rings for the crossover tubes, but I was wondering what you guys suggest. I know I ha…

See the thread I started here - saves reposting the pics http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/441910-pdi-exhause-manifold-fitment-issue.html#post4555099 thoughts? thx --- Update to the previous post... man what a drama - cut it off and will remake a bracket later Then had the manifold back on but all 4 wholes are threaded - not like 2+2 with stocker. So 4 hours later its back off - 2 drills couldnt fix it and I had to manually file it - now its raining :banghead: Tomorrow back on - then the he351cw and some other pain

The truck starts up good then it starts to have what sounds like a miss and idles real rough and runs rough under 2k rpm (cold or hot). Any time I let off to shift it runs rough. Have had a Po122 that came and then went off the next morning. Fuel pressure stays around 16-17. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 02 3500 HO, 210k, 75hp stick( new from DAP), Fass 150, Diablo Power Puck. Have guages.

It's been about a year since I installed my fass 150 and it's about time I install it into the factory fuel filter and I am a having trouble finding the correct fittings to make it work. I am sure I'm just overlooking something but what exactly do I need

I have a miss as far as I can determine it is #6 cyl. I have eliminated the injection pump (VP44) because I can open all the fuel lines(short of #2,because of the intake) that make a difference in the RPM's (other words 2 cyls missing)except for #6 which has fuel being delivered,thus I have eliminated the VP44,I guess I need too make sure the valve's are opening correctly(which I thought I already did,but need double check)I have had the Injectors cleaned and set for proper pop pressure here at Diesel Specialties,No codes, so I know that I need to pull the head(not what I want to do) unless someone has another suggestion.

Catching up maintenance so I a fluid change in the tranny is in order. I had notice some slop in the shifter so I ordered a new button for the knob on end of the tower. Got the thing apart abd the stayed in the tranny which seemed a bit odd to me but maybe it is that worn. Looking at knob its football shaped for lack of better term. The one on the right is the one I took off beside the spare I have. This might show it better. The button had some wear but not much. It still snapped on the spare where it just falls on and off of the one out of the tranny. My little pea brain always told my self that the button would go …

my work just had got a traded in a 1999 dodge ram 2500 but owner had installed the 3500 heavy duty logos from third generation ram... BUT problem is the owner said that transmission is only work in reverse... I was supposed to do that because I has worked on those before but somehow I was back up of works so the dispatcher gave to the wannable technician to do used car inspection... I told him to look at shifter. he said the shifter was act like out of the position... I told him to pulled the shifter assembly out. there is problem is the transmission are NV4500. AND it is brand new.... new clutch, pressure plate but too stiff!!! I did got the shifter back in the positi…