2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I currently have fuel module and tank out, going to re-route fuel line and few other things. Thumbing thru new TRD part magazine today...they have the gasket that goes on top of module. Mine is in-tacked and I don't see any cracks. And can't remember reading any problems with these. But...Is it a good idea to replace with new? I'd hate to drain and pull this tank in the future again just for a gasket. Do they go bad? What would you do? Thanks

Found a older air dog 100 new in box. Comes with the old fittings and roll of hose. 375 plus the ride. Should I take it or leave it? Also need to Change the rear end fluid in my 2001 what is the best to use? Dana 80 with limited slip.

For those who may have an answer..... I recently noticed while on a long hot highway camping adventure over the weekend that my boost pressure would do something I cant fully explain. For those of you who know my style, I generally dont pull with very hot EGT's. For me 1200* is HOT and I prefer to stay under that temperature just because it keeps the engine temperatures happier.....and its just really hot in my opinion. Nonetheless, grossing about 22k pounds, I was pulling hard up some long grades and because of the immense summer triple digit heat it was hard to keep the EGT's from climbing up to the 1200* range under heavy throttle. Not really…

Upon checking my drivers side ground wire I see it has 3 leads. 1 attaches to fender, heavy battery lead to bolt on engine block. Other lead has also been attached to this bolt but I believe it was originally attached somewhere else (maybe frame)? Will it make any difference where this 3rd lead is attached?

Ok I had this problem before as many cummins owners had were the tc was locking and unlocking. I researched the forums and did the apps reset and aluminum foiled the alt. wires and cleaned all connections I could find well this lasted about 6 months and 7000 miles and now its back. gonna check in to the connections in the morning and see what happens. on 1 of the forums im reading about a 1 wire alternator replacement any ideas for a easier fix? how about these noise suppresors any input if they work or not? Thanks Tom

Went on a fairly long trip this morning (600kms) to bring home another Suzuki Samurai and decided to actually calculate the mileage. I ended up getting 17mpgs. Half was empty trailer of course, but I'm pretty happy with those numbers. The trailer is a 16 foot and the Sammy weighs about 2600lbs so the load wasn't real big. I was driving fairly fast too 110km/hr and there was some hilly sections and a bit of wind to fight. That was with the Comp set on 1x5. I had it on 3x5 for a bit but my EGTs seemed to stay above 700 too much. I sure like the 2 stroke oil in the fuel, it does quiet down my engine a lot. Too bad fuel is $1.18 a liter here now. The trip cost me $97 …

I posted this on CumminsForum, but also wanted to post on here for help. Just got my Airdog 150 in today from Vulcan Performance. I have a couple questions before I finish up the install. Since the new system bypasses the stock filter housing, do I just remove the housing, and the old block mounted lift pump all together? Also, do I remove ALL of the old fuel lines? There were two fuel lines ontop of the fuel gauge sender, but now one of them will be removed, correct? What do I block that old open port off with? My last questions would be about the wiring harness. It says in the owners manual about an Indicator Light Connectors. My question is this, are those for th…

Posted a couple days ago reference subject code. Did the key trick again this AM and the code still shows. However, my Scan Gauge and 2 Hand Held gauges did not pick it up. I'm the original owner (90k miles on truck) and have not any problems with codes before Had the not scanned for code in about three years. Had a transmission fluid change last week which I think included a T/C flush also. I have noticed my tranny temp in the 190 to 200 range since which is a bit higher than it was running before. If I'm not wrong it was running well below 170 towing. Have a 3k mile r/t set up to begin Monday so If I need to get something done any advice will be greatly appreciate…

Hello, I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 4x4 5spd. I started having a dead pedal and surging issue a few days ago. OBD reader shows low voltage to TPS. I used mikes diagram and made it to step 9 and I had continuity with the PCM and ECM orange and dark blue wire. It’s saying repair short to ground in the orange and blue wire. I checked all of the grounds to the ECM and PCM but I’m not sure where to check for the orange and blue grounding. I would appreciate any help that you guys can offer. I’m not a very good mechanic and no one in my area can even get my truck in the shop until September 15…

Have joined and trying to download the 99 fsm. Any hints on why it will not let me download as after logging in says not allowed. thanks

Anyone have firsthand experience with either? Whay can be said about either? Do they live up to the hype?

So yesterday I pulled a trailer weighing approximately 6k-7k pounds that had most of my tools and some household junk in it. I decided to put the truck back to stock programming since I don't have a pyrometer installed. After flashing the ECM back to stock just for grins I checked for fault codes and have a p1488. I reflashed the ECM and still have the P1488 that won't clear. The truck runs fine and doesn't have a CEL so I'm sure it'll be an easy fix. I haven't dug into it but I suspect I'm going to find a bad MAP or CMP sensor or possibly bad wiring.

So the next problem to fix! I have been driving the truck down to 1/4 tank, and I'll fill it up. Every so often the gauge will read empty and stay empty for while, and then come up to full. No it stays on empty even after I filled it up all the way, topping off to make sure.. Is there a loose electrical connection?, or is the tank sending unit bad? I looked on the past forums and could not find anything similar,. Thanks.again folks.

Any one out there ever here of a Workhorse ultimate performance modal?I have one that I took of my truck before I replaced my vp44 and had my ecm rebuilt. I don't know if I should put it back on or not.It did give me a little better mileage.This is what the name tag on the modual says. model stage 3 type fuel/boost part no.2009WH Item no.504125 Lot no.4120-2 date of manufacture 12/16/2008 s/n 00/0050

Ok guys messin with the nv4500 some more and noticed that when the 2nd gear shift collar is slid in to 2nd gear it has alot of movement meaning it is easy to move back to the edge of the teeth on the 2nd gear is this normal ive serched for answers or videos and cant find the answer and would like to know before i put the top cover on

For the un-educated, like myself ...what are the plus and minuses of going from VP44 to a “P pump” or a "VE pump on a 2001? Recently talking with a guy that loves his. But he is into lots of horse power and mod’s. For the a stock everyday driver would the change be any good? I’m totally confused. He was talking VE and P pumps. Is going to a “P pump” or “VE pump” a horse power or dependability mod? Or maybe not even a upgrade and just create more problems? I did a search online and seemed to me people heavy into mods, a different type of pump might help them. But not sure about someone like myself that just wants to remove as many known weakness and hass…

Hi all, I have finally come up for air and ready to install my Quadzilla. If anyone can direct me any "new user" articles in here on to how to set it up, not the physical part, I have that covered, but the software aspect of it. I'm using it with an iPhone. I would greatly appreciate it!

I've seen to run across another normally simple task that is giving me headaches Are there any tips or tricks to removing the crankcase vent on the timing cover? My vehicle has the plug (12) and not the actual vent (20) with the puke bottle. Being thin, it is quite difficult to grab onto and it just wont move at all. I see there is an o-ring that goes along with it. Are these notorious for being difficult to remove?

Can some one point me in the right direction on how to make sure my lift pump (FASS 150) isn't wired directly of an ECM but rather of a battery through a relay. I installed everything according to instructions. There is a relay also that I believe is hooked to battery and a plug under a truck that is plugged in to FASS wiring. Maybe it's fine already by going with an aftermarket lift pump and only affected if you still use factory frame pump. Is there a thread on this and maybe pictures? Just want to make sure, Thanks.

Can anyone recommend a good sorce.