2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Good afternoon everyone, Over the past 3 weeks my truck has been throwing a P0122 code and I've tried doing several apps resets and cleared codes several times. Figured apps was on its way out, ordered a Timbo APPS on Friday and it arrived today. After about 30 mins and a relative easy install truck has never accelerated or ran this good. It goes from 0-33psi and holds psi through all gears. Thanks to this site for saving my sanity and keeping truck on the road again! Tim

So here I am again.... When I'm driving my 5 speed, usually in 5th and highway speeds, I put the pedal down and the rpm's go up but the truck doesn't accelerate. It doesn't do it all the time and it does it mostly in 5th gear. I know this is probably an easy diagnosis but I'm no mechanic so let's here some ideas!!!Thanks in advance!!!

So getting the driver side axle u joint done today. I did the passenger side about 6 months ago and everything went fine. So here’s where I need help. I watched a few videos and read a few articles on the driver side, and some people have said that if it’s 4wd you have to lock it in 4 so that something doesn’t drop in the diff when you pull the axle shaft? Is there any truth to this or can I just do it the same as the passenger side? Also does anyone seem to have a part number for the driver side u joint? Autozone gave me too small of one already which I remember they did last time so I had to bring in my old one to compare. Today I don’t have another Vehicle to go back i…

Hi all, I just bought my first diesel pick up a 2001 Ram 2500 4x4 24valve auto last week. I have been lurking the forums and have found out alot of info, but have a few questions. Should I run an additive with my fuel to help lube the pump? If so what do you guys recommend? I see my first mod should be a fuel psi gauge so I will be doing it ASAP. I do a bit of drag racing and I have a Autometer gauge and a isolator so all I need is a way to hook it in between the filter housing and the inj pump. My truck has the lift pump mounted on the engine and also has had a small inline pump mounted on the frame. It looks like the same size as the metal inline fuel filters. …

OK, guys. This might be long, but I want to fully explain my problem: I just replaced my VP44 and added a FASS Titanium 95 GPH lift pump on the frame rail. There has never been a pump inside the fuel tank. Got the LP done first and the system bled - no problem. A couple of days later, I changed the VP44. I wanted to keep the stock fuel filter canister for the water in fuel sensor and the heater, so I put the fitting for the VP inlet on the inlet to the filter canister. I changed the filter in the canister, too. Right now I have the original banjo fittings and line from the filter canister to the VP in place. I also used the 1/8" port at the top of the canister to t…

ok guys any advice and idea new to the forum I have a 2001 2500 5.9 trans started slipping I found a used one for a good price and purchased it only had 15,000 on rebuild it was out of a 99 installed and had no o/d or lockup unless I used the l/u switch still no o/d replaced the governor pressure solenoid and sensor without any luck I'm getting ready to replace to o/d solenoid so I have to drop the valve body and ideas of advice is greatly appreciated this is all my first experience with transmissions

Started truck this morning, was the 1st time it was cold enough for high idle to work since getting it enabled. Ran back in the house for a few minutes, when I jumped back in and stepped on clutch I realized I had a CEL. Of course I'm out of town so went to oreillys and it shows p0237/map sensor. Any suggestions where to start? It is way down on power too

On my 01 3500.I removed the pitman arm.Then pull out the first seal,It is just pressed in by hand no tools needed.Then dig the next seal out with a small screw driver.Now remove the snapring.Now put the nut and washer back on.Start the truck put a oil catch pan under truck move the wheel back-n forth fast a few times.Shut off truck.The seal and washer will be forced out but will not drop to the ground because you put the nut back on.Now you have all the parts in order that came out.Grease up the new seals and shaft install new seals.

2001 dodge 2500 4x4 auto. When I try to start off it feals like the trans is slipping and once it gets going it want shift in overdrive. Stock trans with 75000 miles truck has 300000. The filters and bands where adjusted and changed about 7000 miles ago at last oil change. Any ideas. I check the fluid in nutreal.

I know I need a full rebuild but can't afford it now, is it possible upgrading piece by piece? I have awful TC shudder and am thinking of just replacing the TC for now or do I need a VB and upgraded internals too? And do I need to triple disc for 450-500 HP?

I'm thinking this is something that would bolt right up to my truck but not 100% sure ? I'm still running factory turbo but with 4" MBRP. Exhaust should also bolt up shouldn't it? It did to my existing turbo. I ask because from his add he doesn't seem positive it will do other years http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/general-sale-section/516221-jacobs-exhaust-brake.html

All right, more newbie questions. Thanks in advance for the patience and info!I'm in the middle of replacing my vacuum/ps pumps. Also have a new set of injectors to install, as well as Big Line kit & fuel gauge. I was planning on doing each task individually, but after pulling the V & PS pumps out I realized how much easier it would be to get them back in with out the intake and APPS sensor in the way. Since they need to be removed for changing injectors, I'm wondering if there is any reason I can't pull them, re-install the V & PS pumps, install the Big Line kit, gauge, and new injectors, put everything back together, bleed the fuel system, fire her up, &…

Where is the article on testing for AC leakage using a good multimeter Cant find it. Guy on other forum said there was a good article here Thanks Rick

I was told that the exhaust housings on the hx35 and hy35 turbos are the same and the exhaust wheels are the same. Is that true? I thought they were different. I think im correct in thinking that the exhaust flange thats held on with 5 bolts is the same but want to verify that also. The used hx35 i bought had a broken bolt that was kicking my butt but i finally got it out today. Now I'm just waiting on gaskets and time to do the swap Also, looking at the flange that bolts to the manifold there is a huge mismatch in the ports and gasket. Is there any benefit in gasket matching the turbo housing and manifold? Any draw backs? My signature has everythi…

I've finally got around to do the alternator protection fuse, well I checked wiring diagrams just to be sure on which wire and which PCM pin, it's ingrained in me to check,check and check again before snipping wires. Anyway I have a question, is there any reason the green (this is pin 10 conn 2) isn't on the list to fuse protect, my wiring diagram (2001 Dodge FSM) says Blue is neg and Green is pos of the alt field windings, I'd have thought it would be safer to fuse both. Lets say the FSM I have is right and I have no reason to think not (paper BTW) and the green is pos and it shorts to earth somewhere in the harness which BTW is 5ft longer than it needs to be …

My trailer brakes quit working so I bought a new Tekonsha Primus IQ Brake Controller. The Controller has a wiring harness that plugs into the Controller, the other end of the wiring harness has no plug, just wires. The old Tekonsha Controller was connected to the wiring harness with wire connectors [no oem plug?] While disconnecting the old Controller I cut the hot wire and It sparked [i must have hit metal and grounded it out. This is the Problem: The hot wire is no longer hot. I have checked all fuses and none found are blown out. Is there another inline fuse that I have missed? It is very tight under the dash around the Headlight switch area and many wires. …

I recently sent my ECM off to be repared. Once it was installed, there were still issues with getting it started and staying running. the ECM repair technition told me I have issues with fuel delivery. I have narrowed the problen to PDC fuse #3 (circuit A14 RD/WHT) thru the wiring harness to PDM 1 on the firewall.With everything plugged in my test light lights up when I touch #3 fuse "blade". I can unplug connecter 1 at the PCM and the light goes off. The same circuit will also branch off to the connecter and connect to the ECM wireing harnedss which powers the lift pump. I have been able to get it started but will no stay started. I think there may be an issue inside …

So I was messing with my scanner just figuring out how to use it more, it doesn’t have check engine light. Even though I do have a speed sensor code. Anyways I did an all module scan and this showed up...(along with 3 ABS codes)....Can’t seem to find anything on it. Does anyone have any clue what it means?

I got a recall notice in an email..cant figure out how to post it here. So here is link via web. https://www-autoblog-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.autoblog.com/amp/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/?amp_js_v=a2&amp_gsa=1&usqp=mq331AQFKAGwASA%3D#aoh=15901133638321&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From %1%24s&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autoblog.com%2F2020%2F05%2F20%2Fharbor-freight-jack-stands-recall%2F

My Son`s 2000, 3500 has had some erratic transmission behavior going on for a little while. It seems like a the familiar TC lock/ unlock issue.. At lower speeds and rpm it continually searches. Turn the overdrive off and the issue goes away. He pulled the alternator fuse and took it for a test drive and the issue also went away. Now fast forward. He bought what I believe was a remanufactured alternator from Oreilly`s last week, and everything seemed great for a few days. The trans symptoms have now came back intermittently, and on top of that, the new alternator is now making a slight squealing noise like the belt is slipping a bit. Oreilly`s offered to s…