2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Need some help. I’m The second owner of the truck, 175,000 miles. All originally stock, only modifications is an air dog lift pump and a heater grid delete. When I disconnected the batteries to do the lift pump install a few months ago, I did an APPS reset using the throttle pedal. When I start and idle the truck over the past week, I can smell what seems like unburnt diesel from the exhaust pipe. After a few minutes driving down the road and at a stoplight, before the engine is it operating temperature, I can still smell the rich diesel, and inside the cab my eyes start to burn. No codes are being thrown, no check light is on. I was pulling my boat yesterday, 6…

A few times now since I got my oil leak stopped, I have tried to normally start my truck and got absolutely NOTHING. Before I turn the key to the start position everything appears normal. Dash lights, key in ignition bell, etc. all work. The moment I try to start the truck, ( after checking that the "wait to start icon" is off) , I hear a "click" and everything turns off - no dash lights, no starter, nothing! It is like I have no battery installed. Thinking that my massive oil leak may have caused an electrical connection problem, I cleaned all terminals and reattached all battery and starter cables, and checked battery voltage, and checked fuses. All seemed in …

For those of you who have been following my frustrations with a massive oil leak from my 2000 4wd, 1 tn, auto, flatbed Ram, you will be happy to know that I finally got the problem solved. As the problem and its solution are, I believe, somewhat unique, I thought that I should post my experiences here on the Forum for all of you to get a chuckle. My problem developed a couple of months ago as when returning from a cross country trip the truck started losing massive amounts of oil. The entire under carriage of the Ram and even the car trailer I was towing was covered in oil. I was using about a gallon of oil every 100 miles. Anyway I pulled into a diesel shop in…

Replaced my injectors with DAP 7 X 0.009 VCO's. Old OEM injectors were down to 3300 PSI pop at best with 242k miles on them!! Couldn't get the truck to start after that, had a big puddle of fuel under from bleeding! Installed a DAP VP 44 with NEW electronics and 5 key bumps and 3 long cranks later it started and ran the remaining air out of the system like it should have!! Original VP couldn't pop 305 Bar on the new sticks. It was really tired after 242k miles (assuming it was the original) I am not the 1st nor the 3rd owner of this truck I am sure. Plan is to now do an APPS reset and the W-T mod this weekend if time allows. S…

Performed the WT mod this weekend and a few things I have noticed already. 1. The WTS light pops instantly, use to miss about 2 out of 10 key turns! 2. Shifts better 3. for some reason the truck runs quieter- lotta turbo whine now The bolt I had to use was a 6X1.0 M, Copper terminal ends and soldered after crimp

Comments on various Dodge/Cummins web-pages were all over the place when the subject of differential oils comes up. Anything from 75w-90 to 80w-140 were suggested for the Dana 80 regardless of Dodge's recommendations. Then I found this study which looks like it was at least sponsored by if not conducted by Amsoil: http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/brochures/g2457_gearlube_study.pdf If you scroll down on the chart to page 19 you'll see who the winner was (spoiler alert...it's Amsoil). I've always stuck to an 80w-90 except when we were full time RV'ing. Looking at that chart I'm wondering if a 75w-90 full synthetic wouldn't work just as well if not better. Anyone?

My Stewart Warner pillar gauge and I-Quad aren't reading boost the same. When I'm on the throttle, the pillar gauge says 35+ and Quad says 5-6. At cruise, mech says 4-5, Quad says 0 No doubt the mechanical gauge is right and Quad is wrong. I hardly use the Quad gauge on my phone so I don't know how long there's been a difference. No codes. Map sensor is clean - no soot. Is the Quad reading directly from the MAP sensor or thru the ECM? Can a MAP sensor be sick and not throw a code?

No codes are present. My problem is when trying to accelerate, anything over around 10% throttle and it cuts out and loses all power like I put it in neutral. Barely got to 40 mph on my way home. Hopefully not a transmission issue. I had a tire blow going down the highway at about 75 last night and not sure if I knocked something loose or what. Had a p1698 code a couple weeks ago with no symptoms and cleared the code without it coming back. The problem doesn’t seem as bad once the engine or maybe transmission gets up to temp. Any help is very appreciated.

Goes in high just fine. Use it in and out in alaska a bunch. Hardly ever use 4 low now for several years . I know to back up neutral etc it just will not go in and and sometimes makes a just awful noise So what is the problem??

Experienced a dead pedal for the first time heading up the Blue Mountains last month on a trip to Seattle. Didn't recur again for a day, but occurred periodically on the return trip home. Seems to be under light load - last freeze frame shows 8.2%. No CEL, but found the DTC P0216 when I plugged in the scanner today, no other codes. I have 2 questions: First, I'm trying to follow the article (P0216 Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure) and properly diagnose the problem. Where is "See FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING in ON-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS - RAM PICKUP - DIESEL article." located? I can't find it anywhere here. Second question: Does it matter? From what I'm re…

New starter contacts. batteries less than a year old. Had load tested. Jumped all cables. Cross over and grounds with jumper cables. To check wires. Any suggestions? Maybe have starter bench tested

I am assuming it's the solenoid and/or transducer. The tans shifts fine from first to second. Sometimes it doesn't like to shift to third until a higher rpm or I lift the throttle to coax it to shift. Sometimes it doesn't like to lock up as well. My AC ripple is 0.02 volts which I believe is acceptable (but could be wrong). Does the solenoid and transducer control all shifting? Thank in advance for your help. D

Hello, Curious if anyone has done this FASS 150 upgrade, and if so, your results/comments please. Thanks

Hello. My truck died suddenly and now it's only cranking. Got a P1688 code and looks like vp44 computer is toasted. I found a company which repairs vp44 psgs. Now I'm wondering do I have to cut the wires if I remove psg from top of the vp or can I take the solenoid apart from the distributor end? Thanks and Greetings from Finland!

Ive done the Wiring Mod and that cured my surging issue for 6months. 3months ago I had to park the truck since the HydroBooster went out and ive had bad experiences with part store boosters. So I ordered one from mopar that took forever. I finally got it going again today and it started surging immediately I tried doing a apps reset with no luck. I went ahead and ordered all new cables, terminal ends, and batteries to try to remedy it. Is there anything else I should try while im at it?

Lately I have noticed my 5 speed is getting harder to get into gear. I can feel the shifter moving between the gates like normal but then try to pull it into gear (mainly 2nd or reverse when stopped) it doesn't seem to want to go unless I press the clutch pedal firmly against the floorboard. It wasn't like that before, she used to slide into gear just fine. With a hydraulic clutch I'm assuming there is no adjustment? Is there a way I can check anything? Any other ideas? Thanks!

What’s up new guy here, just bought my truck a couple months ago and stumbled onto the site, lots of cool info. Look forward to sharing my truck and learning from everyone. Like the title says it’s an 01 dodge 3500 4x4 5 speed, it has 301k miles and was a work truck for all but a couple years of its life. Start up construction company bought it in 2005 from an old man that bought it new, they put a flatbed on it and towed equipment trailers. I bought it for what I consider a good deal considering current economic times and plan on making into the weekend truck for the family, tow my boat and looking to buy a truck camper. The guy I bought it from took …

Got a 2001 dodge ram 2500 getting fuel in the oil. Have tried 2 different sets of injectors 7x.010 and 6x.013, put new seals on them both times i used them.(yes i did watch them with valve cover off and could not see anything leaking out the top) I have switched the front seal on the vp44 and its still getting fuel in there. Performed a leak down test at 75 psi and dont have a single cylinder over 20% leak down. Im stumped on what the problem could be at this point. Anyone have an advice on what to look for or try next?

I know this might not be a leak most encounter, but when I rebuilt my engine, I used a little RTV on the o ring for the cam plug in the back of the block, did good for 120K or so, then I added Lucas oil supplement, WOW at start up had near 100psi oil pressure, started leaking like a sieve, any way this time no RTV on O ring but I did use Permatex sleeve retainer # 64000/ and the Surface prep/activator # 24163. Hoping it will last me more than 16 mo's.

Finally got the head home and head gasket. The only thing I forgot was my lube for the ARP 425 studs. Then last night had a chat with another forum member that showed me a much better nut for ARP studs. Much bigger flange on the nut and thicker body. Last night I got another friend Andrew to help me place the head back on the block. As soon as the ARP thread lube gets here I can start stuffing studs in. Truck has been sitting for long time and need to get it running again.