2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Ok Gang... I'm looking for a bit of help on diagnosing a charging issue. Been a busy day for fire calls today and on my way home from this last fire call I was noticing on the SG II my charge voltage is low and erratic. It still within spec of 13.5 to 14.5 volts but it bouncing a bit. With my lights all going its hover right at 13.5 to 13.6 which is usual for a charge voltage. Then it might bounce up to 14.0 to 14.1 then fall again... My first though is field brushes are wore out... Still running stock batteries 8 years old... No codes either... Now here is the kicker I need to do this without throwing a ton of money at parts guessin' I don't want to blow my Christmas Ca…
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Here is a good one I have been fighting, truck shuts off like you turned the key off while driving but wait a few seconds and it starts right back up, but if you try to just start it back upwithout waiting it will just crank. No codes, doesn't crank like it ran out of fuel just starts back up. Could it be a ground? New vp44, App, alternator. Yesterday day on a 300 mile trip it did it more often like something had to cool down. I'm thinking maybe computer?
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Gentlemen, I have done a few searches and I just want to be sure: That these Cummins engines are the coolest running motors around. I have driven this truck about 500 miles since owning it and I have learned it takes forever to warm up, and when it does, a red light will knock the gauge back down to lower normal. I think its great, and though the wife wants the heat on full blast in June, once the truck warms up to mid gauge, the heat is HOT HOT HOT! I already made some homemade winter fronts to fit in the grille with some custom cut black acrylic sheet, so I'm asking- This is normal or no? AP
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Hi all, My 2000 ram 2500 cranked, but would not start. I managed to get it started and it got me home, but the tachometer said 0 for the whole ride. I scanned it and got p0336 which is a crankshaft position sensor fault. I put a new one in (from rock auto), cleared the code, and when I went to start it, same problem- The starter cranks, but no start. The RPM's stayed at zero when it was cranking. I haven't had great luck with rock auto, so i bought a CKP sensor from advance auto with a lifetime warranty. Put it in, tried to start it and the same exact problem! it cranks but does not start. At this point, i figured it's an electrical issue…
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Hey guys, Im wondering who has ever experienced an issue with the kdp on a 24v? Ive read of the possibilities of the problem continuing into the early years, but Ive never personally heard of anyone thats had the issue themselves. Has anybody experienced anything, either with your own truck or a buddies or a customers vehicle perhaps?
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Let's see your gauge setups! Need ideas where to put my phone / gauge thing
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Probably not very intersting, but maybe it could help someone out. Hell I like cummins engines, I would probably kill some time looking at pictures of a guy tearing one apart, figure somebody else might. Reason for pulling it... NVG 5600 tranny went out the other day, so I decided to just go ahead and pull and freshen this motor up, dry compression is pretty high so I will probably not be doing anything as far as honing or new rings. Might, might not. Haven't decided yet. I WILL be replacing the rod and main bearings, all gaskets including front and rear main and head, and will be cleaning and painting it up with cummins apex red engine paint, part number #3885910 just fo…
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Hey folks, I've got a hard start issue that started when I pulled off the interstate in 115 degree heat. Almost always has a hard start if the engine is warmed up and sits a couple minutes now. Sometimes it will hard start if sitting overnight. The first time was 1k miles after a fuel filter change on a road trip from Vegas to southern Idaho, but I did the standard bump the pump and it ran great after that. I can't see any fuel leaking anywhere. I've always seen a little drip off the tank if I really top it off, but that's been the case since I bought it. I just ordered a DDRP from FASS, but haven't installed it. I'm driving a loop from Vegas>Oreg…
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Title says it my truck was properly stored in a heated garage and hasn't started in about a year and a half. referring to the 99 ram in my signature Concerns are traditional v8's you would change and then prime the oil system on fresh rebuild or long storage obviously an oil change is in order do I need to prime the oil system? I have a brand new turbo with 3k miles on it that is the highest point of the pressured oiling system do I have anything to worry about Fuel system, filters will be changed and system primed anything special with injectors or the vp44? I think that about covers it, the cab is going back on today so first start won't be for about a week yet bu…
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Started the other day and it's been squeaking a bit, I'm assuming the bearings are going out and I'm don't want to pay $100+ for a parts store special. Are the rebuild kits from genos garage good? And how do I tell if I have the denso or Bosch brand alternator? Thanks.
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Can a person rewire the lift pump to operate when ignition is on instead of thru. the computor?
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This morning it was -9deg Fahrenheit and I believe it got down below -16 last night. I don't have any fuel additive in my truck as I only run 2 stroke oil. I was able to get the fuel inside the filter warm enough to get me to school with 10 psi of fuel pressure . After some classes I went and bought some diesel 911, and poured a little more than the suggested amount into the tank. The fuel pressure returned to normal as expected. Will having the 2 stroke and diesel 911 in the tank together hurt anything?? Is there a different additive I should use during the winter instead of 2 stroke? Or should combine 2 stroke with something else during the winter? I know plugging it i…
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Ok... I have been having a major issue with not being able to build more than 10 psi boost. I have been trying to fix it to no avail. So, today was about 85*+ here. Drop down the high way and looked over... 1,200* EGT's!!! I was shocked! All week I had been running 600 - 900* even with these low boost numbers (10 psi max). Boost issues STILL There and now the heat issue too! I turned off my Edge, didn't make a dent. When I sped up a little it would hold or drop 50*. It wouldn't get over 1,200*, unless i was going up hill to the floor (and I pretty much have to do that in 5th to get up a hill with no boost ) PLEASE!!! Any suggestions would be great. …
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So a bunch of guys on 208 coal rollers Facebook page here in Idaho is pretty much calling me dumb for saying putting ATF in your fuel is dumb, I just don't seem to see any benefits to putting all those friction modifiers in my fuel and putting it through my vp44
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Just a quick post about my new exhaust. I had only a stock downpipe and a short piece, cut off right before the OE muffler, coupled with a turn-down. That was it..So I got a Diamond Eye Galv. Steel 5" turbo-back exhaust from my buddy Jeremy @ Disturbed Diesel.Removal of the stock downpipe was a little rugged, with my (5) 6-inch extensions put together, a 13mm socket, ratchet, PB Blaster, and JB-80.PBB wouldn't do squat, so I shot it with JB-80 and out the two bolts came. As you can see, the new DP is 3" bell to 4" downpipe, to 5" adapter, then 5" the rest of the way. In the above picture, there's a 40" x 5" piece of tube not shown. This piece would later prove to nee…
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Hey all, just looking for some ideas here. My truck has one of the cast iron eyelets, the ones on the head that the intake horn bolts screw into, broken off. It hasn't been a big deal because I have an aftermarket horn that uses studs and nuts instead of bolts. So I just have a nut on the other end, inside the intake plenum, with loctite to make sure it doesn't come off and get sucked in. I am about to take the intake horn off again to replace my powesteering pump and reseal my vacuum pump and I was wondering if I would be better off with a lock nut and loctite just as an extra safety to make sure that nut doesn't come off, but I'm not sure if that would be safe eith…
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Can someone tell me what the functions of the PCM are for a 2001 Ram 2500 4x4 automatic? I recently had the transmission rebuilt and the ECM replaced but the transmission seems to be slipping at 75-85 mph. I was told by the guy that replaced the ECM and programmed it that it’s a PCM issue but when I called trying to find someone to replace or repair my PCM they are telling me it is an ECM issue. All of my gauges seem to be working fine but my heated seat buttons on the dash light up when I crank the truck and they will flash for a while and then the hi light on the drivers side stays on all the time. The heated seats haven’t worked in a couple of years. The only issue tha…
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up here in ND now and we just got super cold weather and now I got number 1 in its been -15 for the past 3 days now and I have a problems of jelling up. I know the tank isn't Jelling up anymore it just when I go driving around I start to jell up and I think it comes from where the airdog is mounted and not getting any heat. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem with Filters to cold.
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Hey all, Got another question for the group. I have two brake issues that have been there since I bought my truck, but only just now getting around to. Both are hydroboost related. First, it leaks on the inside of the firewall. No question there, it needs rebuilt or replaced, however I don't think rebuilding is an option because of the second issue. Namely, the pedal is very slow to return. Takes about 3 good seconds for it to return and my brake controller light to go out, and even longer when the truck is cold. I had a friend help me flush the power steering fluid, but that didn't help much if at all. So I'm looking into a new hydrobooster. My question is, does an…
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