2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Got a 2001 dodge ram 2500 getting fuel in the oil. Have tried 2 different sets of injectors 7x.010 and 6x.013, put new seals on them both times i used them.(yes i did watch them with valve cover off and could not see anything leaking out the top) I have switched the front seal on the vp44 and its still getting fuel in there. Performed a leak down test at 75 psi and dont have a single cylinder over 20% leak down. Im stumped on what the problem could be at this point. Anyone have an advice on what to look for or try next?

I know this might not be a leak most encounter, but when I rebuilt my engine, I used a little RTV on the o ring for the cam plug in the back of the block, did good for 120K or so, then I added Lucas oil supplement, WOW at start up had near 100psi oil pressure, started leaking like a sieve, any way this time no RTV on O ring but I did use Permatex sleeve retainer # 64000/ and the Surface prep/activator # 24163. Hoping it will last me more than 16 mo's.

Finally got the head home and head gasket. The only thing I forgot was my lube for the ARP 425 studs. Then last night had a chat with another forum member that showed me a much better nut for ARP studs. Much bigger flange on the nut and thicker body. Last night I got another friend Andrew to help me place the head back on the block. As soon as the ARP thread lube gets here I can start stuffing studs in. Truck has been sitting for long time and need to get it running again.

Well, been looking over the truck the last week. Originally had, what I thought to be, a bad water pump. Looked to be leaking out weep hole due to coolant seeping along the timing cover below it. Replaced the pump and all was well for a couple days. After a 4hr trip I found a small coolant puddle. Started tracing it and found the source at front-middle of the head. Leaks down behind the fan housing and follows the timing cover under the water pump. Warmed up the truck and when I squeeze the upper radiator hose small bubbles emerge from the head in the area pictured. Will start tackling the head in the next couple weeks. Surprised it blew with arp studs in plac…

My truck has consistently eaten coolant since I've owned it, 65k miles or so. If it isn't leaking (can't see or smell it), is it possible for the coolant to find its way into the combustion chamber but not have exhaust gas get into coolant? 1/4 - 1/2 gallon a month, new radiator and obviously coolant last summer. Coolant looks new (not surprising considering how much I add).

I have a 99 24v automatic. I was wondering if the engine wiring harness is the same as a manual. My harness was hacked from previous owner and found a good deal on another one, but it’s out of a manual truck. Thanks in advance.

I believe my DANA 70 housing is damaged and while searching CL for a replacement I found a DANA 80 SRW from an 02. What are the downsides to swapping out? Weight and rotating mass, anything else? Should it bolt up?

Does anyone know, or can anybody check what the voltage on C1 Pin8 on the PCM is at idle? I am trying to figure out if the ecm modifies the CKP sensor signal or if it just sends the same signal. I suspected I had a bad ECM and I sent it out for a rebuild from auto computer specialist and they did a full rebuild but I’m still having the same issues. I replaced the CKP sensor a few years ago due to the tach dropping out and a no start issue but I couldn’t get a cummins part so I used an eichlin sensor. When I hooked up a scan tool I had CKP signal and CMP signal but no engine speed at the PCM. For testing purposes could I jump the signal wire from the CKP sensor to the engi…

Is this a normal amount of dirt on the compressor blades? Turbo only installed a couple thousand miles. I run a stock style WIX air filter and it's fairly new and clean.

So the issue I'm having is i have no power in reverse, not transmission problem power but my truck will not push my 5th wheel trailer in reverse up an incline, just black smoke. So ever since i changed to an HX35 turbo and a lower stall torque converter this has been an issue. My thinking on this problem is the lower stall converter is not allowing the engine to increase in rpm to get any boost from the turbo. So question is, will my old hy35 spool better with this setup or would a stock or higher stall converter be a better option or am i just missing something?

Just finished building my 02 5.9 and took it out for a test drive, all went well. Before I tore the engine down I was having intermittent dead pedal. I'm likely going to need to replace the APPS? Is one better than another? And possible source? Thanks everyone!!!

Hey guys, I’m really at a loss here I have no idea what’s going on with my 2000 extended cab 2500 auto trans. I was pulling my gooseneck probably 5k lbs, while accelerating my truck made a sound from under the floor, maybe trans or front end, sounded like a screech or squeak, and the whole truck kinda jumped. It kept doing it as I accelerated, now it’s doing that when I’m speeding up even without the trailer. Anyone have any idea what’s happening? Clutch?

So I thought I'd repost this here. Yesterday I was driving down the road and the truck just died. It threw a p1693 and then a p0122 and p0237. Battery voltage was showing 15.1 and the IAT was showing 2.70v and the engine temp was 2.79v. The scanner was showing no data from oil pressure sensor. The Map and IAT and apps are all brand new. I unplugged the quadzilla and it made no difference. I'm thinking Ecm??? Wiring? This picture is what the scanner was reading when the truck died. The truck would run for a few mins and then die, but now it will only run for about 5 secs.

So how much to shorten driveshaft? I measured the distance with 70 and driveshaft pushed right up against the transfer case there was 2 5/8”. But I also took out 3 extra leaf springs (someone put them in and it rode like a tank). So now I have the 80 in. Looks like have to shorten driveshaft 1 3/4”. From what I’ve been reading people are only shorting 1 inch. Which is right? Thanks.

Ok... My truck went to down after a hard run here locally. Trying to turn around on the highway and out run a semi-truck. Finally blown the head gasket. Not bad but it weeping oil out the front. Still starts and runs. Yes I know most like the smallish turbo (drive pressure) is my problem and need to upgrade. Right now with all that is going on my 2002 is going to remain down for some time and let me fix it right. I know I got to pull the head and get it inspected for sure then reinstall. I'll leave wire tap off till later when upgrade turbo can be had. Already had a nice chat with @dieselautopowerabout it. Like I'm just about got the 2006 Dodge u…

Hi, long time lurker first time posting. Gotta say have read alot on this site has some good Info. Had a issue the other day with my 2000 24v auto. Drove it around all day fine, parked it in the drive way and changed my brake light switch since the brake lights stopped working. After that they still didn't work so I swapped my multi switch with another one, still nothing. Went to fire it up and got a no bus message on the dash, will crank but no start, fuel pump won't prime gauges dont work for volts or fuel level when not running. After messing around checking all the grounds which are tight and clean. Truck has 76k miles on it. Did some more testing, h…

While replacing the tappet cover gasket on my 2000 4WD 3500 Ram Automatic (VP44) (Thanks Mopar1973Man as I used your 2 great "How to" posts extensively to replace the gasket), I came across two lines near the back of the tappet cover which are currently not hooked up to anything. Before I complete the installation, and before I seal everything up, I thought that I should ask the Forum if these two lines should be connected to something that I have overlooked. I have attached a photo with a yellow note pad as background. One line appears to be an electrical plug with up to 4 connections. It stands out in the photo. The other, at the top of the photo and barely on th…

So, went camping with son this weekend and his 98.5 had some problems we're trying to figure out. Went for a short drive and smelled smoke, turned off truck and looked under hood, alternator was smoking! Alternator was hot as hell! Fidled around a bit with the connector coming out of it and he thought they were possibly touching each other? One definitely was showing bare wire at connector. Any how, after messing with those wires he turned truck back on and alternator seemed operate at least cool to touch , problem is now no WTS lamp and grid heater not working. We did get it started in morning but below freezing and it wasn't happy! Didn't think about…

I've got an 01 6 speed HO with 160k on it I bought not too long ago. Previous owner had installed a FASS and Edge Juice on it. I went to clean up some line routing/wiring and noticed what I now know to be the timing solenoid wires were completely bare at the top outside the sheath. I poked around that area a bit, looked over some fuel pump wiring/hoses and then quit for the night after I saw how much work I needed to do. Next day I fired it up (still hadn't done anything but literally poke the wire bundle around to look at it) idling rough, p1690 pops up (no other codes) I shut it down and decided to swap the crank sensor. No change with the new crank sensor…

I have had the dead pedal or atleast partal dead pedal. It will run along fine then dead pedal on me so, I turn the key on/off and it acts like it didnt happen. Bought a new apps sensor. Didnt fix it. Low voltage about 2 or so. Did the W/t mod. Hoping it was a ground. I had metioned I had a code Po 2016 injection pump timing. It is a brand new pump 150 miles so, I said no way but I was told to use some Atf. I finished the W-t mod replaced the fuel filter 1/3 of the atf with the filter rest in the tank. Ran it for 10 mins drove it 10 miles it dead pedaled only on time. Much better it was doing it everymile. Today it still did it twice. Put on the scan tool and got the po20…