2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hex0rz showed up at my house to trade out his +75 HP injectors for my stockers. This allowed him to keep going on his trip. For some reason his +75HP injectors are growing oil so there is a injector issue. So I cleaned my stock injectors up and installed them for him. Hex0rz and Mrs Hex0rz wait for me to do the work. So of course the engine was hot and I plunged right in. Managed to swap all 6 injectors in 1.5 hours.

I hope I'm not hyjacking this thread but my torque converter locks up so hard when I stop the struck and do a restart, as soon as I put it in gear it stops the engine. I have to roll downhill in neutral before placing in gear and then the trucks goes just fine.What could cause this? Too high of fluid pressure or level?Please delete this post if it's a hyjack..... I know very little about auto transmissions. Thank you

I got a 98 24 valve I had the dreaded dead pedal. I changed the oem tps to aftermarket ended up being the pump. The ecm was also rebuilt. I have driven it maybe 70 miles and it's back but not a total dead pedal like before but partal. I back probed the tps= 0.35 at idle wot 0.391. At idle it's supposed to be somthing like 4.95. So is it the sensor or is it not getting enough volts?

Hoping someone with more experience knows what to look for here. Last Feb I replaced my turbo, didn't get a chance to change the oil line so it had a slow leak, finally got around to replacing that, however to get the gasket remnants off, I attempted to rotate the turbo, should have just pulled it off instead. One of the bolts snapped. not a warranty-able item so I paid the shop I bought it from to fix it (drill/re-tap) During this process, I changed the exhaust manifold gaskets because one of them was leaking. After all of this, I suddenly had a howl at 2-6psi... thought it may be the exhaust touching the frame, so when it was in for other service…

Getting ready to put on the fass pump. Should I bypass the shock fuel filter canister? or leave it on. Thanks

Looks like there’s 3 plugs on my trans. One I assume is the speed sensor which is near the back. Then there is the big sorta round plug up high pointing down and then there is one on an angle just above the pan. What is that one just above the pan? I’m dealing with my TC not u locking when it should. I unplugged the big round plug and it was still locked and stalled the engine. I unplugged the lower one above the pan and the motor wouldn’t even turn over. There’s 3 wires in that plug, one of them is very twisted up and has a bare spot.

2001 ram 3500.. edge comp/smarty .. So been having a problem with a stutter under throttle .. 3/4 ish throttle.. I re adjusted the factory made no difference and tps% was reading 8% at idle 77% wide open .. I ordered a timbo which I think is a rip off but anyways.. installed it now it want read below 13% throttle at idle .. I removed it from bell crank to make sure and still 13%.. so I installed it and when I did the adjustment procedure.. I had to move the idle screw in all way to the bottom to get it to move and now my throttle is around 1/2 way.. yes its int the range it called for 580-700 its at .666 and I moved till it voltage came up and then turned back to vol…

seeing that surging can be an issue would putting my sensor in the air dog sensor hole location be a good idea? or would this be to far back? mine is located under the drivers door on the frame.

So the seal is leaking in the cab and it looks to be the original so I ordered a new one. While I'm there should I replace the master cylinder also?

Hi everyone. My truck runs fine all the time except when I start it and when high idle kicks on it gets to about 1000 rpm's and the truck dies. I have turned off the Quadzilla xzt to see if that helps but it doesn't change anything. Just wondering if its a Quadzilla issue or an engine issue?? I'm thinking its something to do with the chip but let me know because I have no idea if it isnt that.Thank You!!

Let me first start by saying this website is an incredible resource and I'm very grateful for all the great content yall provide. During the extended time at home during COVID, I did a few projects on the truck and now I'm having some issues. 1) Installed a FASS 165 with G&R sump 2) Replaced my old nasty battery cables with a set from custombatterycables.com After both the projects, I put everything back together and it starts and runs fine, but doesn't produce any boost and has a fairly sluggish response. There is a decent amount of smoke if I get much above 2000 rpms. I still have steady constant fuel pressure at around 18 psi wit…

I'm in the process of removing injector pump from a blown motor. I can't get the motor to turn to get pump to TDC before pulling the gear. What are my options if I pull it as it sets, which is about 90° out. I assume TDC is for timing of the pump. If the pump is reinstalled on a working engine, would I install it the way it came off, 90° out, or is there a way to time pump to TDC once it is removed.

So, after 278,800 miles, my virgin 100% stock automatic has had its first hiccup. A couple days ago when I came to a stop it kept wanting to lurch forward, dragging the engine down. It doesn't kill it but it is lugging. I did some Googling but am not finding anything with the exact symptoms I'm having. I think it's the TC solenoid so I ordered one and will try replacing it. During normal driving the trans essentially operates normally, when the TC locks at its usual time the engine RPM drops, and it unlocks and relocks as I let off and back on the throttle. Basically, everything works normally but it acts like the torque converter suddenly went from 80-wha…

First post! Howdy y'all. I have heard good things about these forums. Anyway, my truck (see sig) has some weird issues. It runs great, then all of a sudden it will lose throttle, pedal it a little and it will come back. It is also shifting very erratically. 1st sometimes hangs, 2nd to 3rd normally fine, 3rd to OD and lockup it hunts really bad for both.. Going to check alternator for Ac voltage tomorrow and add/clean grounds and some of the normal things. Anything else I should check or do? Has a brand new Industrial Injection VP and Fass lift pump. When the truck runs, she runs good. Fast, strong, shifts GREAT. Also, no codes thrown! Validated with Snap…

Hello all first time poster here. I have a 2002 2500 cummins that will crank but no start. I thought I had a bad ecm so I sent the ecm off to be rebuilt along with the pcm due to the age and mileage on the truck. I have received my computers back and hooked everything back up and to my frustration I still have the same issue. I checked the black and brown wire on the ecm I believe pin #30 and came back with 9.99 to 9.97 ohms according to my reading anything less than 10 ohms means it’s a bad ecm. Are these numbers so close that one shouldn’t condemn the ecm as bad again or no that’s a issue right there? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated I will also be contac…

I been ignoring this for about a year now maybe even longer, just curious if anyone else has this? Its my 01 with about 350K on it. It rattles for maybe 2 - 3 seconds oil pressure builds up and its fine.

I've been having problems with my truck hesitating after about 10 minutes. Felt like a fuel supply issue. After seeing my fuel heater actually smoking I pulled the relay and have not had any problems with hesitation, and actually it seems as though I have a bit more power. I've read a lot on several forums about symptoms similar to mine, but no one has mentioned the fuel heater circuit as a potential cause. I just wanted to let the forum know that I had this issue that seems to be cured by disabling the fuel heater. No idea why this would cause a hesitation problem, except if the fuel got so hot that the VP would shut down, but I've never seen codes to indicate this.

Ever since I got the truck 3 years ago it’s always had a bad rumble while 4x4 was engaged. It hasn’t effected any performance of the 4x4 but it just doesn’t sound good. I believe it’s the double cardan in the front shaft but I’m unsure. It doesn’t seem to have a lot of play but I plan on removing the front shaft this weekend to see if the rumble goes away with 4x4 engaged to see if it’s the t-case or the shaft. I’ve heard that the from double cardan is a bear to replace but I’d much rather do it myself than spend $300 on a new shaft. Any tips to replacing this joint? I plan on doing all spicer joints so I hopefully won’t have to do this again for a while.

Finally finishing up a new build that's been in the works for several years. April of 2000 built truck with 6 spd. We ppumped it with 01' wiring harness and ecm/pcm's. Installed the tone ring on the cam gear and just about everything else I can imagine that came on the 01'-02's. We are having trouble picking up the tach. Upon start up it will register (kind of erratic) for about 15-20 seconds then drops off. We haven't verified it's charging but assuming its not since there is no tach. We swapped wiring harnesses ecm's and pcm's with known good ones off an 01'. We've grounded and re-grounded just about everything. Swapped alternators…

Good evening all, Huge fan of this forum, it's taught me a lot about working on my truck and I'm hoping I can get some help pinpointing a problem. I've got a 99 24V 4WD with an NV4500 5 spd manual transmission, about 325K miles, bought it about 4 years ago with 272K miles. Over the last weekend I replaced the injectors with some Bosch 75hp, I replaced the crossover tubes with new ones while I was in there, all with new o-rings and new copper washers, and I also adjusted the valves. Followed torque procedure when putting everything back together. Before this was done the truck was pretty sluggish with acceleration and building turbo pressure. Now sh…