2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

did my semi annual driveshaft greasing today, and I did replace a front joint. I also noticed the CV is getting a little funky. (you know the little 'cup' for greasing the centering ball... the one that is next to impossible to grease!).. So, a quick search and I think I'll go with a custom type shaft. Littons out of Salt Lake shows a brand new, all Spicer components, with 1350 CV joint, (oem is 1330 series) for about 350 bucks. Any custom length, and balanced...

Coming home from my trip to Texas last week and I see my isspro mechanical water temperature gauge setting about 215* but the gauge in my cluster and my ScangaugeII both reading 188-190. I check my gauges periodically when im driving my truck so I know it was not doing it very long. We stopped to run through the Chik-fil-a drive through and after about 10 minutes or so being back on the road I noticed it. I was running 80 so I backed off down to 70 and it came down a little, maybe 210 or so. I kept a hawks eye on it for the next 10-15 minutes and it just dropped to 195 or so like normal. I watched it the rest of the trip and since but it has not come out of the normal ran…

I am working on a 2000 24 valve and the initial problem was that the truck didn't have both batteries connected when my friend bought it. He was having transmission shifting issues. He discovered that both batteries werent connected, fixed that and the trans started working correctly. After some time passed the engine started idling high. His neighbor adjusted his apps then put another apps and it didn't fix the problem. He brought it to me and after pulling codes and checking the apps voltage, i put another ecm from another truck and the idle problem was fixed so he bought another ecm. When test driving, the truck got a dead pedal when you would put the pedal to the floo…

I have a 02 Cummins H.O. and I bought new 4 ply silicone intercooler boots that are rated 80psi working and 240psi burst. I ordered new t-bolt spring clamps but the idiot sent me regular t-bolt clamps without the spring. He is sending me replacements but they wont get here till Monday and this weekend is really the only time in the near future I will have to change these. I have a BD turbo elbow, BD boost fooler, BHAF mod, glasspacked 3" exhaust and hypertech. So not really putting too much over stock for psi. Should I just put the regular t-bolt clamps on or wait for the spring clamps? Thanks

So I came across a deal on a 90 gallon L shaped auxilary fuel tank to mount in the bed of the truck. It's used but still good. I have never had one nor mounted one in a truck. I was wondering if someone on here has had one and mounted it. Any tips on how to do so? Also, if you have one are you gravity feeding it to the main tank or did you install an inline fuel pump? I have a small inline pump on the shelf and was thinking about using it with this tank to fill the main tank with a flip of a switch. Thoughts?? I'll be getting the tank sometime over the weekend so I'll post up pics once I have it. Thanks for any input.

What is the easy to get water out of the fuel tank? without removeing the tank

Hi guys. I'm in the middle of doing a shift kit and I noticed my frond band is pretty low. I've read that you can pull the band out and put a new one in without pulling the transmission. Can anyone confirm? Maybe give me a part number? I need to put truck back together by Wednesday. Heres what my band looks like.

My truck slowly started having converter lock/unlock issues after 2.5 years of no issues. I initially removed the stock alternator because it was reading .05mv A/C voltage and that solved the lockup issues I was having. In place of the stock alternator I installed a Nations 180A alternator. Now 2.5 years later my lockup issues have slowly come back and are getting bad at 45-50mph. Today I checked A/C voltage and read .045mv on the meter. I’m wondering if anybody knows the part number for the rectifier/diode bridge to replace the Nations unit?

Can’t seem to find any answers so I’ll ask you guys. I have a 98 Ram 2500 24v Cummins automatic tranny. Have problems with it going into drive and stalling no problems with reverse. But when I engage my torque converter lock up switch while switching into drive I have no problems. So could that be a torque converter problem or a problem with the switch.

I don't have too much knowledge on building a reliable 47RE slush box for the 01. Seems everyone buys a built to order unit and I haven't found too much real world info for a DIY'er such as myself on good non-OEM kits. I have built quite a few gasser automatics but always to OEM specs but never to harness more power. I recently aquired a core 47RE that I plan to build. I've been looking at Suncoast rebuild kits. The 01 is gonna get a few more upgrades in the future but is never going to be wild so I don't think I need to build a $10,000 transmission. I was thinking of getting the Suncoast STAGE 1 KIT. What's y'alls opinions on which kit…

Hi, I have a 2001 dodge ram 2500 4x4 vin 6 truck , and need to know turbo model number, looks like my waste gate si stuck or damage. According to my bluetooth scanner the turbo pressure is around 29 psi when idle and up to 37 psi when reaches 2100 rpms. I had the sensor replace because low voltage code p235 (I believe this was the code number) and I was able to duplicate intermitent signal data dropping all the way to 12 psi. But even before I had sensor replace on idle it was showing 29 psi. Regaridng turbo ID I could see some numbers inthe front side but I was expecting something that leads me to HX35 or HY35.

I got my turbo bearings replaced and manifold bolts for exhaust side replaced too. now I have been seeing a drop of RPMs no when in park it was always right around 850 RPMs before now they have been going down to 830 and now down to 810 and 800 when just sitting in park. is this normal or is the vp44 going out now

So today I had to go to my parents house to do some work for them, had the truck loaded with the tools and materials I needed, noticed that I left my keys in the ignition. No big deal, I've done it before but, this time I left the ignition on some how. Started the truck, cranked just fine and fired right up. Volt meter was down a bit, comparable to as if the grids were on ( they're unhooked at the moment). Figured the batteries would charge on my 25 minute drive. I made it 1 mile and "check gauges" lit up, voltage now at 8. Checked the 150amp breaker, it was tripped. Reset the breaker, tripped again. Went back to the house and removed said breaker for now. Running late ha…

I didn't like the quick connect fittings that came with the air dog so I change them over to jic/an fittings and new parker hose. If any wants the parts list let me know.

So after 10 months of no CEL I got a lift pump circuit code(230). I am not using that circuit and the plug has been hanging there for a while now( 10 months). I also noticed that the grids never cycled after I started. The wts light went on for about 2 secs then shut off. The CEL turned on before I even started it, I just turned the key to the "on" position and it illuminated in about 1 second.... Any ideas.... That was the only code. I can clear it and it will come back in no more than 2 start cycles.thanks,Will

Ok in the crankshaft seal kit, it comes with a couple things. The instructions are extremely vague about the parts. In this pic: http://media.photobucket.com/image/cummins%20crank%20seal/FiveNdime/Forum%2520Stuff/CumminsCranshaftseal.jpg It shows the seal, install sleeve and a piece of metal ring. I dunno what the other black rubber ring is, as I have not had one of them in my kits I bought. Although, I have gotten the metal rings in mine. It does not say what it is for and when I first removed the dampener, there was never one between the crank seal and dampener. Anyone have any idea what it is for? If its important to have, I need to know soon, as I have a new crank …

My truck needs recharging for at least 3 hrs ea. week after sitting. It's got a ghost draw. I know there's a fuse to pull but which is the right one? Near the fuse pulling tool 'dealy bob':think:Thanks in advance

Is fluid supposed to accumulate in the transmission solenoid that is attached to the xmsn housing? I have attached the diagram of the connector which plugs into this solenoid, I have cleaned out the plug a few times but fluid keeps re-appearing. Just seems weird that have fluid in a electrical connector. the Main 8-plug connector attaches to the solenoid in question. I did some quick searching and could not find out any information on if this is/is not normal.

So I have read everything there is about this code and parts and followed a lot of steps of troubleshooting! But my question is has anyone done the re-sauter of the transistor inside the vp44 and did it work? I know it’s either my vp and or the ecm. Just still trying to get a good idea on which one to drop the cash on. So so after new fuel pump(17 psi now ??), filter,apps, and a lot of ground wire chasing the truck starts fine but low idle around 6-700 rpm then if you hit the throttle no matter very lightly or peg it to the floor it jumps to 1400 and stays.

So the other day I made myself a switch panel. Gotta love 3d printing. One of the switches is a torque converter lockup switch Welp, it was getting dark and I tapped into the wrong line. I tapped into the apps wire. Oopsies. Orange and dark blue vs orange and black when it was starting to get dark out Ended up running it on my commute to work today, about a 30 minute drive. Surprisingly, the switch worked, just not as a lockup switch Turns out if you ground the apps wire, the truck will run properly, but the torque converter will hold whatever condition it was in when you flipped the switch So if you flip it while it'…