2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am a retired maintenance mechanic so I am pretty knowledgeable but my question is everybody around here wants $300 to install a vp44 is it that hard or can most people do it.The one thing that concerns me is the keyway falling into the case.Also can the pump gear get off the cam gear while you are doing this.And also is it hard to line up the pump with the keyway.I watched a guy do this on utube and it was a really good video and he shows what to do and not do.

I am currently experiencing fuel pressure drops when letting off of the throttle, however when under normal throttle my PSI is running between 15 and 20 PSI. I have the Fuel Boss that has a check valve on the return line and a month ago I cleaned this out and installed a new ISSPRO mechanical gauge with a snubber as I was having similar issues. My fuel pressure was good for a length of time, fluctuated from 18 to 20. Right now it will be at 19 under normal throttle, but when idling it drops all the way down to 8 and my engine begins to stumble as it is starving for fuel. Obviously an issue. My question is, can the return line banjo with the check valve on the VP44 fail an…

Hi there, First time posting, but i have been reading posts for a while now, really appreciate all the help this forum has given me in doing a 1998.5, 5 speed, 24V Cummins swap into my 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton. I am now working on the building a fuel tank, I'm halfway done building it. I just was about to drill holes, and I've run into a question i have on where I'm going to run the return line from the VP44, and also from the Fass 95g lift pump i have installed. This picture represents where I would like my fuel tank to be, its 65" wide, 32" tall, and 6" deep I have scrapped the idea of using the factory Chevy saddle tanks, as i want und…

Im trying to figure out some stuff about this wire. Im pretty sure this is the wire that makes the pump work the way it does (utilizing the sensors, etc.). My question is is this wire taking a signal from the ecm to the pump or vice versa? What sort of integrity test can I do using a DMM for this wire?

Ok so am trying to make up my mind on this, I had a quadzilla with adrenaline and had a tap on the top cover but now this new edge cts that I installed came with a tap for a wire tap so just followed the instructions and made the tap on the wire but now am not so sure if that's the best place I called the customer service to ask how could I double check if in fact it got tapped and they told me to open up the box to check if the lights were on and in fact they were but I really don't feel a big difference in power even on level five . On the adrenaline you definitely could feel the difference when you turn it up ,could it just be the difference between programers?

Is there a way to test VP44 health when there is no codes? My truck ran like crap this morning. Very chattery and doggy. I’m wondering if my VP isn’t going south. It started pretty well but was pretty chattery for only 25 degrees. Scanned for codes and got nothing.

New to this great forum. Just wondering if anybody knows of anybody that has had long term success after replacing the transistor in their vp44 module??? I am referring to the “injector pump fuel valve” drive transistor that overheats melting its connection. Anyone know what the original transistor was that Bosch used? If so please let us know what transistor replacement you used? Did you solder or use an adhesive to secure and provide the necessary heat transfer? Thanks, Gary

First time poster, appreciate all the info exchanged here. 2001 2500 ETH (six speed) 245HP (I have owned the truck since new - June of 2000) I think the current (subject) VP was installed by me around 2003??? and is the second replacement pump on this engine. I have always changed fuel filters and "check" lift pump pressure with a mechanical gauge which is anywhere from 6 PSI WOT to 12-14 PSI (25 second no start check). I have a FASS DDRP installed (2011), (new overflow valve and fuel drain valve installed recently. So......I am here looking for a little help I have had an intermittent dead pedal about one year now.....It has progressively gotte…

Ok I go to tap my vp44 and the wire you are supposed to tap is missing the insulation and some of the wires are broke ? Can you replace the wire ?

These wires were bare and the plastic falLing off is this mud problem Sorry picture didn't post but it's wires on vp 44 I was fixing to remove it too see if it could be re soldered and its touching and wires bare

Ok Gang... You all have seen the Dodge FSM book minimum pressure of 10 PSI. Well I started to do some thinging and relized even that is too low. Here lets take a look at a pic here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=878 So now let assume your fuel pressure average is about 12 PSI which is above the 10 PSI minimum pressure. Driving down the highway at 55-65 MPH your going to be flowing at least 2-3 GPH through the pump. But now let add a twist to it. New situation... Going up to Seven Devils Campground its a 17 mile drive up a 1 lane dirt road that is steep. I'm dragging a utility trailer with 2 ATV's. Ok for the sake of the post we'll say t…

I figured a few on here would get a kick out of this. not affiliated with any of this, just wanted to spread the laughs.

Hello, I'm certain many have changed out the Draw Straw to 1/2" but I don't seem to be finding discussion on it. Could someone please direct me to a discussion or documentation on doing it? Thanks. Leaky

Tried 3 times to contact Eric (on vacation maybe?) The valve at top of his pressure tester...should it be leak proof or not leak proof? and turning screw on tester only depresses the valve stem (to allow pressure in) on what ever you are testing?

Soon to come... W-T simplified ground mod article. I did mine without buying very much stuff at all... All wire was reused!

Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks.

Hi all...I am getting ready to do the W-T ground mod and have a few questions. I have an early model 1998.5 and the alternator is wired a bit different from the later models. I was able to find a picture of the connections from a member on here and also a wiring diagram of the alternator. Do I remove the B+ cable on both sides of the junction block all the way to the PDC or just where I placed the red arrow? Then do I run a new short B+ cable from the alternator, with 140 amp fuse, to the passenger side positive battery terminal? Is everything the same for the grounding mod after this point? Thanks for the help!

1998 1/2 5spd. I am doing the w-t ground mod. I dont understand why I need to remove the alternator charging wire going though the bundle to the pdc. Why would i not just leave it? I am doing this in hopes to fix my grounds to get rid of a dead pedal issue. So what am i missing?

I kind of touched on this in another thread but can't remember which one or find it so here we go. Sorry for rehashing this. I did the basic W-T ground mod and installed a 150amp breaker between the alt. and passenger side battery. The breaker seemed to trip early (it was a cheapo from Amazon $12 made in china) but prior to the mod not once did it ever fry the 140amp OEM fuse which leads me to believe that the breaker is sub-par. So my question is: Which 150amp breakers are you all using with no problems? I have no tuner or major mods for that matter, basically stock truck, original alternator with about 148k on it. Need to get this done since it is…

When your buying ring terminals for the alternator don't go cheap and buy just larger crimp rings. Make sure to get a good copper ring for the alternator lead. I thought yesterday my alternator quit being the circuit breaker didn't trip neither did the fuse for the field wire. I kind of messed up yesterday and was trying a pop a rib out yesterday so I asked Mark to swap out the alternator with our donor truck here. He started pulling my alternator off and the charge lead fell off. The ring tore on one side and the rest of the ring wasn't strong enough to hold the current and poof! It melted and opened the circuit for charging. I highly suggest using copper te…