2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Hi everyone, new to the forum, but I have been on the diesel garage for over 10 years. Is anyone looking to sell their stage 1 or 2 Garrett powermax turbo kit? If someone is looking to sell because they want to upgrade, or the turbo needs repair, or if you know someone selling one, I'm interested in making a purchase. Thank you very much everyone. I look forward to reading your responses.
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Yeah I've got a previous customer back. The white Dodge that I did the AirDog had a problem with 4WD and it wasn't locking in. First thought was CAD axle issues but after testing the transfer case and seeing if the shaft locks nope. Something wrong it the transfer case. I pulled the drain plug nothing came out but 4 drops of black thick oil. Removed the transfer case and open the inspection plate and ther is broken metal, plastic, and pieces. I'm heading to Boise Transmission warehouse to get a reman transfer case Tuesday morning.
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If the crankcase vent was clogged or had a partial blockage would/could it cause higher oil pressure?
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OK gear heads! Same post different title, sorry for that but honestly I'd thought I'd get more than one response, (thanks by the way!) I understand if people have other things on their minds lately but I'm going to try again. Here's the deal, I just purchased this truck a few weeks ago, first dodge Ever, it has a "built" auto trans and the prior owner told me you need to hold the brakes and step up the idle when putting into gear first start of the day or it will stall the engine, said it's been like that ever since trans build. I liked the truck well enough to overlook so now I have to deal with. Once I go through the ritual and unfreeze or get trans fluid going…
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Hi everyone Ive got a list of parts im installing when they arrive from over the pond. The parts ive ordered are: Shift kit tfod Rear band anchor Front band anchor Band strut Superhold billet servo piston Billet accumulator piston kit GM solenoid upgrade kit including transducer. Any tips on the install mainly the shift kit Thanks
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I looked under axles and couldnt find torque for rear wheel bearings.They werent just real tight coming off, is it just snugged up?
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Just finishing up 47re build and I’m installing the valvbody with the trans on the bench. Is there any way to tell is the if park rod is actually engaged in the right spot or not without putting it all together and finding out the hard way?
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I been dragging my feet, I should have posted this a month ago. But the main thing is it's finally running right once again. Here it is and Im guilty of doing this a lot, looking over things and saying its good to go, its fine. Well I took my truck to two brothers in San Antonio who Ive heard really good feed back on. Anyway they found it in pretty quick. One of the pins backed out on the apps plug. And of course when you pulled it apart it would go back into its correct spot, push it back together and it was just making enough contact to run and once it got hot it would act up doing some wild crazy stuff. Just glad it wasn't the ecm. Check the obvious. I tryed to del…
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I will get intermittent dead pedal when driving above say 60mph with light pedal pressure.. I also get this weird hanging up when revving the truck in neutral it will rev up just fine then hang up at say 2000rpm then come back down..all of the issues show up after some amount of highway driving. Drives fine on short trips, long trips it's constantly cutting out at some point. The hanging up thing worries me that something mechanical is ****** up. How often does the control unit fail vs mechanical on newer units that have been fuel starved at some point? I have a new fass 150 pump motor and so VP44 installed less than 10,000 miles ago. I did b…
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I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 cummins auto the driver side fender was junk so the guy I bought it off had ordered a bunch of new parts which it came with a new fender I pulled the old fender off and put the new one after I got everything back together I started it it was running fine I hit the brakes it shuts off and if I turn the head lights on it shuts off was wondering if it could be a ground issue or something any feed back will help thanks in advanced
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I have a 2001 24v and it will read 40 psi of oil pressure weather its running or the key is just turned to the start position. I might add that it still reads 40psi with oil pressure sensor unplugged well. I have tried a good know cluster and it does the same thing. I've cleaned all grounds and checked them. Anyone know what it could be?
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Hello! This is my first post on here so pardon if I’m in the wrong subcategory. About a week ago, I developed a popping noise under take off, it sounds like it’s coming from under the drivers side floorboard to me. A buddy said sounds like under back passenger seat, under take off it sounds like a pop is coming from under the truck, have had it on the lift and have checked all u joints, they’re good. Back one going into the rear end had a strap that was coming loose, took it out and checked everything and put it back with locktite, it only does it after I’ve driven the truck for a few miles. I’m stumped, I’ve looked all around forums trying to find something and can’…
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Is there a way to check if my fuel tap is working using a volt meter ? Truck is a 99
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Hello everyone another New to me 98.5 day after I bought it odometer started blinking and no guages except for the tach. P1698… Checked for bus voltage at the dlc and have 2.45 without the truck running, I figured it was a pcm but I put it in my other 98 and it worked but the pcm out of the other truck didn’t work in this one. I checked the voltage of the 2 bus wires on C3 on the pcm and it seems they only show 0.9 volts? Truck charges and shifts fine just no guages. I also checked the C130 connector and my grounds going into the pcm. Any help would be appreciated thanks guys
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Hey Everybody- Just checkin' back in, I haven't been posting but have been following from time to time, and wanted to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. I have learned so much from others on this site that has helped me out. A bit of an update on my "new" 2002 6 speed that I got in late July in SLC, and the Carter bit it on the way home. Good news is the VP didn't seem to suffer. Checked in with y'all, and got some good advice/ pointers. Got back home finally mid-Oct, with a pile of parts boxes waiting for me, and dug into it. Chose to tilt the bed instead of dropping the tank, and my little JD tractor made a great bed lift device. Had to re…
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truck cranking no start, no bus,wait to start light stay on very dim. I have been chasing this no bus issue and as soon i unplug ecm everything comes back to normal no abs and gauges start back working, so i decided to take ecm off and was a ratling noise comming from the inside i oppened an one of those capacitor came unsoldier so i soldier back put ecm back and no work! still shows no bus wait to start light dim and no gauges working so I decided to send ecm to Auto Computer Specialist and they told me my ecm was fried no fixing so i need a new one they want 1599 since my ecm can not be repaired does not count as core. I found a cheaper one somewhere else…
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Can the data link wires be spliced or replaced with regular automotive wire provided the connections are soldered and heat shrink applied?
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I replaced my ECM and FCM plugs with pigtailed aftermarket plugs. When I started the truck it idled normally but when i pressed the accelerator there was a loud grinding noise under the hood. What could I have done to cause this? It sat for over a month before I made the repair. Disconnected batteries first. Spliced wires one at a time. Reset throttle sensor before starting. No codes.
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Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/woPoAfy"><a href="//imgur.com/a/woPoAfy"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script> https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy **** why is this being such a ***** to upload a ******* video
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edit: added video in reply Hey gents, glad to see the site is back! I needed it during that time hahaha. I just replaced my head and put in some 110# springs, ARP 425’s etc. I have this tapping noise that is usually most prevalent when coming down into idle range whether in gear or free revving in neutral. I have a feeling it’s a bad exhaust leak but it’s driving me nuts since occasionally it’s not there and then will be there when I park. I adjusted valves after the head job and did mess up there the first time.. lost #6 intake bridge due to I believe the nut being too loose (oops, live and learn!). Replaced that push rod, and used moparm…
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